skygzr Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Hi All - It's frequently repeated that you should use an alkaline fixer after stainingdevelopers, because an acid fixer destroys the stain. I was curious if anyonehas ever done an A/B test...shoot two similar rolls, process them at the sametime, and fix them differently. I tried pyro a few years ago (but didn't inhale), and was not sure I saw thebenefit. Beutler's seems just as sharp and I didn't have to wear rubber gloves.I couldn't convince my self that my highlights were a whole lot different,either. However, I'm perfectly willing to admit that the effects may have beenbeyond my ability to appreciate, and that a second look is warranted. So I thought I'd try again, this time with the 510 formula, and maybe Hypercat,too. I'll get some TF4 when I order the chemicals. I saw some discussion to the effect that 60% ammonium thiosulfate is the main(maybe only) ingredient in Thio-Sul, a fertilizer. It's apparently a good dealcheaper than the stuff from the chemistry stores. I'll see if any of the localfarm supply places have it. http://www.tkinet.com/aboutus/aboutus_products_ag_thio-sul.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Hi Kevin. If you're interested in making good negatives simply and reliably, with a minimum of complication, I recommend 510-Pyro (single solution) over Hypercat(two-solution). Thanks for the Thio-Sul tip; I'll look for it. I use Ron Mowerey's Superfix with all my developers, and love it. Good luck. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Tried PMK and while nice, really could not see benefits. The I had a few unexplained failures with PF kit. By PMK Water rinse and alkaline fix maintained the original stain and no restaining was required or beneficial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doremus_scudder1 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Kevin,I've done the before and after test. I use PMK, but had trouble with the TF-4 fix (mottling and streaking...). At any rate, I switched to Ilford Hypam at the 1:9 dilution, which is just slightly acidic.Negatives done in an entirely alkaline process showed good stain. There was no appreciable difference between negs processed this way with or without the 2-minute afterbath in the spent developer that Gordon Hutchens recommends. However, the negs processed conventionally, i.e. acid stop and Ilford Hypam, Have visibly less stain before and after the 2-minute afterbath in the alkaline developer. The difference, however is much less noticeable after a 30-minute wash. I imagine the neutral pH of the wash water serves to build some stain. As far as printing goes, I can tell no difference between the negatives processed conventionally with or without the afterbath except for a little added time due to increased base fog. I surmise that most of the stain added during the afterbath is overall stain and not image stain. Overall stain can reduce contrast in the shadows a bit, but does help to mask grain a bit more. Due to the above, I no longer use the afterbath much. If there are delicate highlights that may benefit from a bit more overall stain, then I will use it, but if there is critical shadow on the edge of underexposure, I do. I should mention that the negatives processed conventionally done without the afterbath do show adequate staining, just not as much as those with the afterbath. BTW, when I switched to PMK, I noticed a marked difference in the rendering of delicate high values (clouds, etc.) as well as a bit of grain masking. That is why I have stuck with it, despite the gloves. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 D-76 is so cheap and last a long time why use those Pyro things if they are just so Probmatlic?... because like you said you tryed them years ago... It also makes a great explosive when mixed with hydrocarbon fuel 60% ammonium thiosulfate that is..... Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Larry, 510-Pyro is much cheaper than D-76, lasts much longer, is far more versatile, and produces sharper negs with better film speed and gradation. 510-Pyro represents a new generation of staining developer, with benefits unavailable from earlier generations, including ease of use. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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