sean_fitzgerald1 Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 In my school darkroom, some classmates and I have been getting discolored streaks down the center of our negatives. It only happens sometimes though, and to different people every time. It's happened with Illford and Kodak films alike. We use d76 1:1, "standard kodak acetic acid stop back" and "standard kodak fixer"... "both mixed accordingly" according to my teacher. Agitation is done with spinning rods. I agitate what I consider to be normally: (developer: 5 seconds every 30 seconds, fixer: 10-15 seconds every minute for 10 minutes) The developer is always between 19-21 C and recommended times are mostly always used for developing. When we take the negatives after they've been washed and put them back into the fixer for about 5 minutes, the streaks go away... So I'm guessing that 10 minutes is not enough for the fixer? This is a few minutes more than the recommended though, so I do not understand. Perhaps it is the spinning agitation? The tri-x negatives always come out a light transparent blue/gray color. (this is normal, correct?) The streak going down the middle is usually a pale yellow color. I made a print from one today before I fixed it again. I noticed on the print that where the streak was, there occurred a less amount of contrast and brighter values. I apologize if this is a repeat, or obvious, but I could not find it anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_mcbob Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Bad fixer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 In sufficient agitation in the fix. Spin rod agitation gets new solution to the edges, but not the center. The proof is to cut off some and refix in a tray. The streak will disappear. Agitation is to be vigorous and random so as not to set up any patterns. A one reel tank (stainless steel) needs five inversions every 30 sec. Rotate 90 degrees when setting it down. I use a two reel tank for one film with an empty reel on top. Fill with only enough to cover the bottom reel with the film. Rotate when setting down. Two easy inversions are sufficient. A plastic Patterson tank has lots of head room so two inversions are ok. Use twist rod only for first agitation cycle if you read the instructions. Your developer is off too with dense edges and less dense center. It will print light on the long dimension after you clean up the fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I'll also go with insufficient fixing. I use Paterson tanks and agitate by inversion. When I get to the fixing stage I agitate continuously. Within reason it's almost impossible to over-fix. I suggest you test the fixer by dropping the cut off leader of the film in a sample and then agitating it. Note the clearing time and fix for TWICE that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_unsworth1 Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I use inversion for the fixing stage. Invert repeatedly for the first 30 secs and then 4 inversions halfway through the fixing time. 10 minutes should easily be enough provided there isn't a problem with the fixer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colmmccarthy Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Insufficient agitation. Spinning's no good. You need to invert those tanks and agitate better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiyen Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I fix with _constant_ agitation via inversion for 4 minutes each, 2 baths. That might be a bit of overkill, but I don't think that agitating more is going to cause any problems, and agitating not enough leads to fogginess/milkiness, plus possibly more of that purple tint action. allan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_fitzgerald1 Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Well, if spinning is insufficient for fixer, is it insufficient for developer as well? Should I switch to inversions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkpainter Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Sean, Spinning isn't insufficient for anything. I never Invert my Tanks (Mostly Patterson). Do a search of this Forum for "Minimal Agitation" it is a Technique. If you OVER Agitate in the Developing stage it will change the way your image looks drastically. The Fixer in your school Darkroom is either not mixed correctly or it is Spent. It is likely that students aren't rinsing their Film well before the Fixing stage. The Streak you are describing is when the Film hasn't "Cleared". You should try mixing YOUR OWN batch of Fixer and don't let anyone else use it. Your troubles should be gone. Oh yeah....you know it wears out, right? jmp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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