Yashica 44

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by greg_nixon|2, Aug 4, 2017.

  1. In last weekends "what camera(s) are you using this weekend?" I said I was going to take out my Yashica 44, 127 TLR. I did take it out but the results were not good. It has a slide over the red window, which you only open when winding on to the next frame and then close when you are taking the shot. I only wound on in shadow not in full brightness. Every single frame had a broad dark band running down the photo. I've attempted to cure this problem by putting in a foam washer that sits between the pressure plate and the red window. I haven't got the results back yet, but I think it will improve on the problem. Here is a link that shows what has been done.

    Yashica 44
  2. Greg, I'm impressed with how you've fixed the red window, but I can't see how this was the cause of the problem with your pictures. Light leaks from the red window should surely appear as circles, arcs or streaks in its vicinity on the negative.

    It doesn't look like a light leak, but I can't offhand think of any way this could have happened in the camera.
  3. Dustin McAmera

    Dustin McAmera Yorkshire, mostly on film.

    Looks rather like what you'd get if there wasn't enough developer to cover the film in the tank, or if the reel migrated up the centre column.
  4. John: There is always a gap between the pressure plate and the red window. My theory is that light coming in from the red window is scattered around, causing that dark band along the edge. It only has to be in one spot, moving the film past a spot will look leave a trail like that. That's the theory, unfortunately I will be be away for 3 weeks and can't test it till then.

    Dustin: I've had that problem, It normally leaves bubble like patterns on the the side of the film.

    We will see when I get back. I'll post the results here.
  5. Dustin McAmera

    Dustin McAmera Yorkshire, mostly on film.

    I think the pattern is wrong for what you describe. If extra light were getting to the film as you wind, you'd expect a dark stripe on the negative, and so a bright one on the positive image. You have a dark stripe on the positive image. In addition, the stripe is quite uniform, whereas I think the extra exposure would be more pronounced at the start and finish of each winding action.
  6. Yes, I agree with what you say That's left me with another problem to think about.
  7. If you can post an example, we can try to work the problem out. Does not look like a light leak.
  8. There is a link in the first post to a Flickr album. There is a scan there of a negative from the 44.
  9. I have a 44 and wonder how one could decide where the 'start' and the first frame is if the window is blocked:)? Keeping the darkness from the side (mine has its window in the middle) does sound a bit odd as said above.
  10. Well Murray that raises another question.
    First, I no longer think that the dark band was a light leak around the red window. I think the problem is more likely to be not enough solution in the dev tank. I will be trying this out over the weekend. As for the red window being in the centre of the film, on the film backing paper from Efke 127 the centre track is for 8 frames per roll. How does that compare with the number of frames that you have been getting? The outside track on the same backing paper is for 12 frames per roll, which is what I have been getting.
    As to lining up the frame number without the red window open, I don't think you can.

  11. I have a vague recollection of an article on bad backing paper...don't shoot 120 at the moment, so didn't pay a great deal of attention.
  12. Dustin McAmera

    Dustin McAmera Yorkshire, mostly on film.

    What the OP has is a 44A; it doesn't say 'A' anywhere, but that's what the model is. This is the only one of the three Yashica 44 cameras where you have to use the red window for all 12 pictures: see the three Yashica 44s at Camera-wiki. The original 44 has a reciprocating film-advance lever, which will wind until you have advanced one frame, then lock up until you expose. The 44LM has a winding knob, which again locks when you have wound far enough.
    I have my 44LM here. Like Murray's camera, the red window is in the middle. You only use it at the start of the roll; you wind until you get the number '1' in the window, then you slide the cover over the window, and press the little knob on the side that resets the frame counter. So yes, you use the 'Frame 1' marking of the 1-8 numbers. At the other end of the film, when you have exposed number 12, the camera will wind as much as you like, since you're now taking up all the tail of backing paper.
  13. Thanks for the additional info Dustin. Which make sense now. I have seen the model with the winding crank. we live and learn.
  14. Just to finish off the post, the problem was with the level of chemical in the drum. I ignored the instructions on the drum and measured the capacity first. All the band problems have gone away. Thanks to all who contributed a response.

    Kodak Portra 160 NC, PMK Pyro, Canon 8800F, Viewscan
    01 (Medium).jpg

    Tuna Fishing Vessel
  15. Looks good. Glad you found the problem.

Share This Page