Shooting 100 speed film indoors without flash

<p>I was thinking of shooting some kodak elite chrome 100 speed film indoors this weekend, in a museum gallery without using a flash. I am thinking the space is primarily lit by recessed lighting. Would it be possible with this speed of film maybe using an 80A conversion filter for tungsten lighting? Everything would be still-life and the museum is fairly well lit.<br>

I don't have any other reversal film on hand to use. Maybe f/2.8 at 1/30 sec., ISO 25? Thoughts?</p>

<p>Can you use a tripod? If not, forget it. I consider my living room also "fairly well lit". At night (with little light coming through the windows), at ISO 100 and f/2.8, the exposure times would be around 1/4 s or a little slower. I don't know about you, but my rate of sharp images at shutter speeds that slow is low. Also, why would you shoot ISO 100 film, <em>especially</em> transparency film, at EI 25?!</p>

 

<p>shooting the dastest slide film might be possible.<br>

the ;lack or exposure latitude would mean dard areas with a gloomy result.<br>

You would get more pleasing results with a 400 speed color negative fikm..<br>

also with a color negative film any color variations couls be adjusted when printing.<br>

assuming "wet" prints.<br>

any color slide film will be scanned and printed digitally anyway.<br>

and the slide films, altough beautiful , are not as forgiving as negativbe film.<br>

if the reason for 100 film is quality, then a daster dilm would be more grainy, but of overall better quality,</p>

 

 

<p>Just curious... does this muesem prohibit flash pictures?</p>

Use ISO 400 color negative film. If you want slides you could get slides made from the negatives.

<p>ISO 100? Very unlikely. ISO 25? No way. You'll need ISO 400 minimum and a faster aperture than your suggested f/2.8 may also be required.</p>

<p>1. Tripod is a must.<br>

2. If there are "pools" of light then the contrast range may be too much for your slide film.<br>

3. Are you sure it is tungsten light?<br>

4. For slide film, set exposure in the lighter areas. Better still, bracket the exposures.<br>

5. For neg film set exposure in lighter areas and open up 2 stops for better shadow detail.</p>

 

<p>Dave, I thought 100 asa would probably be too slow of a film to use, but it was the only film I currently had on hand.<br>

Alan, I will double check regarding flash pictures in the museum. I may just have to stick to negative film and be done with it.<br>

I'll see if I can find a faster film like one of the fuji provia films.</p>

<p>garret says it very well<br>

I apologize for the typos<br>

I am having some prpblem seeing the keys.,</p>

 

<p>Back when I was a young neophyte photographer and didn't know anything, I took a trip to Japan, spent 16 fantastic days there, and shot almost exclusively ISO 400 Fujichrome everywhere I went. And a lot of the places were rather dimly lit temples where flash photography was not permitted, but within which I was able to get decent handheld shots with fast lenses (like a 50/1.8). This was in 1983, so we're not talking about the latest generation emulsions, either. To this day, I am amazed at the lack of grain in these 30-year old photos. And not only that, they have not significantly turned in color either. It's been 30 years now and the colors are so true you'd think the slides were Kodachrome. But then I never project my slides; I keep them in archival sleeves. I had almost all the ISO 400 slides developed while I was in Japan, and I've always wondered if the Fuji chemistry used over there back then was better than what we had in the US.</p>

<p><img src="http://michaelmcbroom.com/images/japan/kinkakuji2.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="674" /><br /> <em>Canon A-1, Canon 50mm f/1.8, Fujichrome 400, exposure unrecorded.</em></p>

<p>My point is, grain probably isn't gonna be an issue for you with ISO 400 slide film. Emulsions have improved considerably in the past 30 years, and based on my experiences, I just don't see the issue in using a fast slide film these days for most photographic applications.</p>

<p>Most museums won't allow tripods because they are trip hazards. BUT! Often these same museums will allow the use of monopods. A skilled monopod user can get sharp images with shutter speeds in the 1/15-1/25 range, which is often slow enough at ISO 400 for shots in pretty dim places.</p>

<p>Forty years ago, we had EX and KX at 64 and High Speed Ektachrome at 160, and, yes, used it in museums without flash.</p>

<p>Don't use a filter, though. Any color offset will make it look more like the actual museum. You can always change the color when you scan them.</p>

<p>Speaking of museums and tripods, does anybody make a monopod with pop-out legs at the bottom? Or very very slim tripods? It doesn't have to take a 100lb load or anything, as long as the footprint is very small. Basically just something to hold the camera so you can trip the shutter (or even use a cable release). For 35mm cameras the mirror motion won't disrupt the camera much, especially if mounted on a pod of some sort.</p>

<p>Is there anything like that on the market these days?</p>

<p>I've seen walking sticks with the attachments Mark described for better support at the foot, and a standard mounting bolt at the top. Haven't tried one.</p>

<p>There are walking canes with three or four feet. These are often advertised as being better for folks who need walking canes, but seem more likely to trip the person using them. These might be adaptable to a camera/lens monopod.</p>