Olympus 35 SP WOW!

<p>Hi Everyone,</p>

<p>I thought I would add to the recent postings of classic 1960s and 1970s rangefinders. Last month, I was lucky enough to come across an Olympus 35 SP. I bought because it has the unusual feature of spot metering. However, after scanning the negatives the photos that popped-up on my computer screen astounded me. The quality of the photos is outstanding. The lens produces some very good contrasts in tones and the sharpness is spot on. Now, I know the real reason the Olympus 35 SP is a true collector’s camera. The lens is the amazing.</p>

<p>The only downside to my purchase is that the meter reading is two stops to slow. However, that is easily corrected if you realise the problem. It could simply be the battery. As everyone knows this camera was originally designed to use a mercury battery. I have an alkaline battery and an adapter in place of the old mercury battery. It could also be that the ISO meter is broken. Who knows?</p>

<p>One feature that I love is that I can override the auto exposure setting and shoot in manual mode. I did not use the spot metering function, so I have no idea if it is truly a bonus or a marketing gimmick.</p>

<p>Anyway, enough blathering I hope everyone enjoys the photos.</p>

<p>Here is the link to the photos. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=889532</p>

<p>Mike</p><div></div>

<p>I like the shots. For what it's worth, I have a camera that was also designed to use mercury batteries. My trick was to set the ASA dial one speed slower (dial ASA 100 with ASA 200 film). It's worked for me.</p>

<p>Hi Michael: Very beautiful images! The spotmeter works great on this camera! That G.Zuiko is one FINE optic. This camera is arguably one of the finest fixed lens rangefinders ever made. Best of luck with your new 35SP. Here is my example.</p><div></div>

<p>Nice shots, and congratulations. That G Zuiko lens in the 35 SP is one of the best for rangefinders in that period. Besides, the camera is so small and easy to manipulate. A true classic!<br>

I would recommend using a hood for best results. The SP flares very easily in backlighted scenes, because of that large protruding front lens element.<br>

When using alkalines instead of the original mercury batteries, the meter becomes optimistic. You have to set the EI below the film ISO; for instance, if the film is ISO 100, set the meter to 25 or 50 instead. A technician could also adjust the meter (mine was adjusted) for alkalines. </p>

<p>Or, have a technician adjust the meter for silver-oxide cells, which have the virtue of stable voltage over time. Alkalines are incredibly unstable, voltage-wise.</p>

 

<p>In another thread someone recently suggested, if the camera is consistently underexposing by a given amount, taping a piece of ND filter gel of the appropriate density over the light meter sensor. The camera will think it's darker and correct accordingly, and you can use the correct ASA settings. I thought it a brilliant idea.</p>

 

<p><strong>Michael</strong> --Those are really nice shots from a very nice camera, a rangefinder I don't have yet. I plan to remedy that very soon though, rest assured. The lens appears to perform superbly. Most of my Olympus cameras have the 5 or 6 element lenses, however my Olympus 35-S II has a wonderful 7-element G. Zuiko lens that produces stunning images. I wonder how different the two lenses are, considering the fact that there is over 10 years separating their introductions.</p>

<p><strong>Louis</strong> --That's a great shot of your camera. Is that an Olympus hood you have mounted on it? I'm drooling all over my keyboard...</p>

<p>Beautiful camera, nice pictures. I have been keeping an eye on the sp, but it tends to get pricey, even more than the beloved RC. Maybe one day...</p>

<p>Hi, Mike Congrats on acquiring a relatively modern classic. I got lucky myself about four years ago with one of these, in a Perth junkshop for about 25 bucks. Everything seemed to work perfectly on it except that the meter reading would intermittently go haywire. I don't know if that was because there was a fault with the CDS circuitry, or because of the same problem that some of the other guys have mentioned - ie, the demise of the correct mercury battery.<br>

In the end, after running several films through it, I tended to ignore the meter reading and go the traditional 'Sunny-16' guesstimate route. Besides, I didn't like the SP's EV scaling, which seemed to be a bit of an anachronism on such an otherwise high-tech camera. Kind of reminded me of my Minister D from the mid-60s, a great learner's camera. Then somebody made me an offer I couldn't refuse, and that was goodbye to the Olly SP. I've often wondered why Olympus didn't continue with it, sans EV, and with PC-non Merc batteries. (Pete In Perth)</p>

<p>as john said the alkaline cell is " unsable" or was it something else not good?.<br>

if you look at the voltage of the alkaline cell it starts high and gradually declines.<br>

" gradually" is the significant thing. A alkaline cell when really run down and weak will give an off reading and unless you are thinking , never realize it.<br>

a conversion to a stable Silver-Oxide cell ( stars at 1.55v and stays there until it dies)<br>

converting to this, often inserting a SHOTTKY diode in series, s the best solution. but how many of us can afford to have each and every camera adjusted and modified.<br>

a less elegant but practical answer is to use the hearing aid zinc-air cell, it will die in months or even weeks but is close to the 1.35 volts required.<br>

and when it dies, IT REALLY DIES. letting you know.<br>

almost all cameras of that era use a "series" type circuit and it is totally dependent on a stable cell voltage.<br>

a few, like the spotmatics, used a "bridge" or balancing type circuit and are less affected by a varying cell voltage.</p>

<p>Battery manucacturers tell you thje alkaline cell is a "direct replacement" and it is not true. unless you can afford to waste film and get poorly exposed photos.<br>

these 1960 and 1970 cameras are capable of super results , often better than some of the newer cameras.<br>

It is likely these Classics will still be making photos when some of the newer cameras have been discarded.</p>

<p>Great shots Michael. I've been looking for a SP for quite a while. Unfortunately I think the words out, and the prices are starting to climb. I do have an Olympus 35RC that is a really sweet little user with another tack sharp lens. </p>

<p>The mercury battery replacement problem has been discussed a zillion times on this forum, but cleary it is still important to many of us.<br>

For what is worth, IMHO the best solution is the adapter that "interslice" sells on ebay. This involves the battery, not the camera, and thus can be moved from camera to camera. The max. you would need is two adapters for two-battery cameras, which is still a very reasonable expenditure.<br>

The second best and the one I've been using is simply to buy a voltage tester (these are dirty cheap) and use it for the alkaline batteries. When they drop below 1.3-1.28, simply replace them.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I use 675 zinc-air cells in my 35RC and used to use them in my OM-1 (before the meter died) and always get perfect exposures. While they do run out quickly, they are also dirt cheap and I've found that the expensive silver oxide batteries running in my OM-4 last about the same amount of time, which for me makes the extra expense really not worth it. I think alkalines are just a complete waste of money in this case... it's just flat out the wrong battery for the job, and too expensive to just be throwing away all the time and getting wildly inaccurate readings for the entire short life of the battery. But you know, some people feel better paying more money for things. The Olympus rangefinders are just flat out sharp performers in well-built bodies.</p>

<p>Great pics, Mike, and it really is a very fine camera. I've been tempted to chase a couple over the last few months, but both had "meter problems". After this discussion I'm wondering if this is a weak point in this model... But I'll keep watching, and congratulations on a fine addition to your collection.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>Everyone, thanks for the comments on the photos. They are well appriecated. I hope to bring another classic to the forum soon. I am thinking a Konica III or a Konica S or a Minolta 9 or a Minolta Uniomat or an Argus C4...... ah there are too many to choose from.... ugh!</p>

<p>Mike</p>

<p>Hi Andy, Sorry I missed your question. No, that hood is just a generic metal one I got off eBay for a few dollars. This lens benefits from a good hood. Since I shoot mostly color neg films in 35mm, I also rarely use any filters on my rangefinders.</p>

<p>I just scored one of these yesterday @ my favorite Thrift Store. They have a filing cabinet with the 'bottom' drawer full of junk cameras.<br>

1st I found the front case cover, then a little later the camera, a Olympus 35 SP.<br>

While I was waiting in line to pay for it another guy made the comment, that the shutter won't fire and the advance lever is stuck, just thought you would want to know.<br>

I said yeh, I know, it was at the end of the roll, I just rewound it and everything seems to click & whir now?<br>

I got it home and checked it out, the only concern is that the spot meter button is missing,the plastic cover is still there but the button is gone. Super glue and a piece of my g-grandson's Lego I should be able to repair it?<br>

It has an alkaline battery in it now but I hope it is about dead as the meter will only move to on or about the '7'. It will fire on automatic and won't fire when I cover the light sensor, which I believe tells me it may be an OK camera.<br>

I put a roll of film in it and shoot it on manual tomorrow.</p>