Only took 15 photos on my roll, can I still go and ask someone to process it?

<p>Only took 15 photos on my roll, can I still go and ask someone to process it? The film It's a ultramax 400. Thanks :)</p>

<p>To anyone who's wondering why I only took 15 photos instead of 36, it's because I needed the photos and the roll was so cheap lol.</p>

<p>Yes. They will process it for you. Happens often, for many reasons.</p>

<p>Alright thanks! :)</p>

<p>Of course. I have had a roll of film processed when I only had ONE photo on it. The actual processing is the same no matter how many exposures were taken on the roll, so don't be expecting the processing price to be lower because the roll is not full. Even scanning costs will likely be the same. The only thing that would be less cost to you would be if you get prints made from the scans. </p>

<p>Thanks for the info :)</p>

<p>Processing is the same, regardless of the number of images (or blank spaces) on the roll. However post development handling can be affected.</p>

<p>Most processors cut the film into shorter strips, usually 4 images. Inexperienced operators may trim out blank spaces, leaving you with strips as short as one or two, which are difficult to print, scan or store. I prefer to store strips of 6 in archival (polypropylene) pages. If there are blanks, I leave them in place, keeping the strips roughly the same length. This doesn't affect the lab, because they scan and print the film before it is cut.</p>

<p>Ask the lab to return the film uncut. Have them sleeve it and roll it up into a core from one of their print paper rolls (they're otherwise recycled anyway). Left untended, these operators may squeeze the film into a film can, which leave it permanently curled and possibly scratched.</p>

<p>I use a little guillotine paper cutter to cut the film. It's cleaner than using scissors, and easy to cut between frames, even if they're close together.</p>

<p>A blank end shouldn't be a problem. Most now that I know of charge the same for developing (only) of 24 or 36 exposure rolls. I think also for scanning. (Most use an automated scanner.)</p>

<p>It gets more interesting when you have a long blank space, and then more pictures. Sometimes, people rewind a roll, but not all the way in, then load it in the camera again. Then shoot off frames with the lens cap on, maybe one or two more to be sure that they don't overlap. </p>

<p>If they don't notice, it is possible to cut the strip in the wrong place. </p>

<p>It might be that some even manage to make prints from the unexposed frames, but hopefully not.</p>

<p>For slide film, where costs don't depend on the number of successful frames (I have never known any to decrease for mounting costs), I would usually finish the roll with pictures of dumb things, like houses down the street. More often, I do that testing cameras with black and white print film that I develop myself. </p>

<p>Yes, but be sure to rewind the film; it will not auto-rewind until it hits the end of the reel.</p>

<p>If you do not know how to initiate rewind, just point the camera at a wall and click off the rest of the roll until the camera auto-rewinds.</p>

<p>Alright, thanks for the infos :) </p>

<p>Of course I rewinded the film!</p>

<p>"Sometimes, people rewind a roll, but not all the way in, then load it in the camera again. Then shoot off frames with the lens cap on, maybe one or two more to be sure that they don't overlap". This is interesting :)</p>

<p>Taking film out with frames unexposed and then putting it back in will happen most frequently when a photographer has to switch between different kinds of film in a camera. Maybe you only have one camera but want to switch between color and black-and-white, or between fast and slow film.</p>

 

<p>That sounds interesting :) Might try that that next weekend</p>

<p>As for switching film in and out, I have done it lots of times, BUT, I would not recommend it unless you have to. It's too easy to rewind the film all the way back in, forget where you left off, or to forget to put the lens cap on when you advance the film a frame or two beyond where you left off. If you do it, set you camera at the fastest shutter speed and smallest aperture to be on the safe side just in case your lens cap is not light tight.<br>

<br /> And if you do rewind the film all the way back into the cassette by mistake, it can be retrieved without breaking open the cassette. There's a tool for that, or you can use the wet film trick.</p>