Below Zero Degrees Leica Usage

<p>In Paul Neuthaler's 1/1/2014 New Year's Greeting, I opened a side discussion on sub-zero Leica usage. As the subject is of interest due to our current winter weather, I thought a separate thread might be of interest, especially with additional suggestions for best cold weather usage practices.<br>

On 9/4/2005 there was a post "Leica R6 for Cold Weather" in which several aspects of cold weather usage were reviewed. In addition to camera bodies and lenses, the post also discussed film issues, static, batteries and condensation. I had an unfortunate incident of severe internal lens fogging when I brought my unprotected very cold IIIg and 50 f2.8 Elmar into a warm, moist winter home. Fortunately I was able to have it refurbished before any mold appeared. </p>

<p>Isn't the theoretical solution to that that you put the camera in a sealed plastic bag before bringing it indoors so that the condensation is on the outside of the bag?</p>

<p>I have also had this happen to my cameras when going from air-conditioned to extremely warm weather & the reverse. Never had a problem. The fog/haze always disappeared without issues. But, that has been my experience.</p>

About a week ago, we had this precious polar vortex descend upon us in Illinois. I took my recently acquired M4, endowed with a Summicron 50mm and loaded with chromogenic film, and took a series of photos of my wife and son shoveling snow. Then I left it more or less sheltered (from the wind) in the garage until we were done shoveling (some 20 minutes). I took it indoors and left it in the coolest spot in the house, untouched and unmolested. Yes, the VF turned all foggy, and if I had removed the lens cap it would have done the same. I didn't, and left the camera rest for, say, a couple of hours (it was very cold to the touch, by the way).

 

After that, it was back to its old self.

 

My electronic meter, however, did succumb to the cold (batteries dies). But once back in the house, some hours later, it revived and was back to normal.<div></div>

<p>I used an M6 extensively in subzero (celsius) weather in Munich a few years ago ... no problems whatsoever. It was probably minus 5 or so. For longer periods in colder weather I suppose one would consider special oil and so on.</p>

<p>On the other hand, I was using an M7 on a cold day out on the Solent and the camera just died on me. I was left using a Bessa R2 the rest of the day. When i got back to London, the M7 was fine. The temperature that day couldn't have been far below 10 degrees; not sure if the battery was dodgy to begin with.</p>

<p>You don't want to use a motor in cold dry weather due to static electricity. Manual wind should be fine; when rewinding the film, rewind slowly.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've used fairly new Leica F2 and F4 cameras down to -60 degrees Fahrenheit with no problems. As Frederick says, winding and rewinding must be done slowly. I usually let the cameras acclimate to warm interiors slowly in camera bags.</p>

<p>My experience in very cold weather (down to -40 F, which is also -40 C) is positive. Batteries generally have reduced performance as the temperature drops, owing to the nature of their electrochemical reactions and their variation with temperature. I either use all mechanical Leicas and/or keep a small exposure meter within my clothing when not in use. As some have said, you have to be careful winding and rewinding. Do it slowly. Lens focus helicoids can also be less fluid in operation but workable.</p>

<p>The theoretical advantage David mentions of the plastic freezer bag or other small plastic bag that can be closed is in fact a very practical option and I think a must in cold weather photography. Otherwise, when an uncovered camera warms up when you come inside the condensation takes place on any surfaces exposed to ambient air. Also not the time to remove a lens, leaving it and the inside of an unprotected camera exposed to moisture condensation.</p>

<p>Many electronic cameras do very poorly in very cold weather. The manual Leica is the much better choice in such cases, unless you can keep the electronic camera relatively warm (under cold weather clothing when practical, removing it only for short duration shooting).</p>

<p>Take a camera bag with zippers with you outside. The bag will be as cold as the camera when you're ready to come in. Take the memory card out, put the camera in the bag and zip it closed before coming inside. Provided you don't put the camera bag on top of a heat register or radiator and provided you don't live in a greenhouse, it will slowly warm without any condensation issues. I find ziplock bags to be cumbersome in extreme cold and only use them when I know the relative humidity in the warm area is very high (for example: entering a conservatory.)</p>

<p>Some of you make recent weather you've had sound like a big deal, when we just deal with it as a matter of course in the Dakotas & Minnesota. I once had some 35mm break when it was about 35 below, and had some static problems showing up on 35mm at 42 below. Other than that I haven't really had any issues. Last year the aperture ring on my 90mm ELmar wouldn't turn at all at 18 below. I've since sent it in to Youxin Ye for CLA and this winter had no problems with it. I just leave my cameras out in my car all winter long and generally don't bring them inside. When I do, they are kept zipped in their case for several hours.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p><div></div>

<p>I wonder how M8/M9 fare in such cold weather.</p>

Living in the Canadian Rockies I have used many cameras in extreme cold. As others have said batteries do not last as

long and you need to take care with condensation (although the dry air here helps). In terms of Leica my M6 works fine

and has been used in -35 C and probably slightly colder. My new M 240 and M8 have also been used well below -20. In

general there have been no issues. That said my new M240 did have a situation where the display on the back froze for

a couple of minutes while being used in about -25 C. Getting it into the car and warming it up for about 2 mins while it was

switched off solved the problem and I was soon back out shooting. Of all the cameras I have used over the years the

ones that never seems to suffer are my old (New) Canon F1 s they just shoot in extreme cold without any issues. Canon

recommended chasing the oil on the shutter but I never bothered and they just keep on going.

This is very impressive. Thank you for this information.

<p>With Leicas only issues have been batteries. (M2's and M4 never had issues). My M6ttl's battery was not happy at -23F. I changed it with a warm fresh battery and it was fine. M8 batteries aren't happy with extreme cold. You want fairly new, fresh, warm batteries. I always carry the extras in an inside pocket to keep warm. I've never given a flip about the condensation when I come inside and it doesn't seem to matter (unless I needed to shoot something in a hurry). In that case I just keep a camera inside so I can grab that. Good luck.</p>

<p>The M6TTL reportedly uses much more battery than the standard M6. I prefer to stay home when it is very cold.</p>

<p>This thread prompted me to park my old Leicaflex and simply use a recently CLA'd M3 with a version II Summilux 50. No real problem although the focusing was a little stiffer after a day between -0- and -10 f. With the film out, the Leicaflex/50 Summicron worked fine but the meter went into hibernation until it was warmed up. However I also took out a late 1960's Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic with the f1.4 50 Takumar and stopping down from f1.4 to f16 the auto diaphram was very much slower. As with others again the meter, even with a fresh battery couldn't take the cold. Tom Abrahamsson's big softie shutter release is really useful with gloves on.</p>