Good developer for most films ?

<p>hello friends , i'm steve and i love photography , currently i'm located oversees ( Morocco to be specific ) and i'd like to develop me own b&w film , i could easily ship most chemicals and supplies from US through b&h or adorma (in powders that is )</p>

i'm planning to develop delta 400 , tx400 , neopan 400/1600 , hp5+ , fp4 B&W films , can d76 handle them all ? sometimes i push films up to two or three steps , i'm very informed with the process my self , but my question is how long say a will they last after i mix them ?

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what is the best strategy to store chemicals for long time ? i can offer to take a small hit in shipping cost , but i can't offer to try different developers at the moment.

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Regards

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<p>D76 is fine. I prefer XTol for a powdered developer. After mixed, D76 should be used within 4-6 weeks, but in reality, it can last much longer. Where you are at, you may find Ilford ID-11 available, and it is very similar to D76. For storing chemicals for a long time, I use an accordion type bottle to ensure air does not come in contact with the chemistry. Keep in a dark cool place ideally.</p>

<p>I suggest D76. It lasts at least 6 months in a full, dark colored jug, normally. I do not know what happens to it in a very hot climate such as Morocco. To maximize storage life keep the jug full and add 8 1/2 seconds for each roll developed (with a gallon). Pour the used developer back in the jug. When the time becomes too long for you, or after 6 months, throw it out. It will do at least 100 rolls this way.</p>

<p>D-76 or XTOL are both excellent general purpose developers. XTOL provides an edge for push processing, IMO. I use plastic soda pop bottles to store both, and either developer will keep well for up to six months if the bottles are kept completely full.</p>

<p>If you can find some Diafine film developer you should be fine with the films you are using. If you are using TRI-X you can rate it at around ISO 1000-1200 and get great results. Plus, Diafine is very tolerant when it come to temperature. The only problem is your location might not have Diafine available. JohnW</p>

<p>Clayton Chemical offers a complete line of chemicals in both liquid or powder. Their developers are P-Q not M-Q. They all ship non hazardous, world wide, with out difficulty. All of the fixers including the powders are stop-fixes therefore stop bath is not required. For more information contact me at <a href="mailto:askus@claytonchem.com">askus@claytonchem.com</a></p>

<p>HC-110 as you can mix it as you need it from the syrup it last for ever and you can dilute it many different ways to get the look and times you want.</p>

<p>http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

<p>For the films you listed whether shot at box speed or pushed, Clayton F60 is a good choice. Freestyle sells the Clayton developers. If you don't mind mixing up a developer from powder then D-76 is OK for regular use but not as good for pushing. Microphen is good for pushing but a lot more expensive than F60. F60 comes in a brown plastic bottle. If you divide it into four 8 oz. glass bottles it will last a long time. You can use it 1:9 or 1:19. The times are shorter at 1:9 and it is still economical to use that way.</p>

<p>I use D76 for most normal films.<br>

Microphen for pushing, neopan 400 @ 1600 looks great in microphen, much better than in D76 in my opinion.<br>

The only film you've mentioned that I'm not sure about is Delta 400 as I've never done it in D76 before. I had someone tell me I shouldn't be using D76 to develop Delta 100 but never explained exactly what the reason was and I'm not sure if the same would apply to Delta 400</p>

<p>I like XTOL 1:1. Keeps for months if you split it into smaller bottles (I use .5 L bottles). I usually just run Plus-X, Tri-X, and TMZ through it. The Tri-X gets pushed occasionally, and the TMZ is run anywhere from 800 - 3200. </p>

<p>Steve<br>

Why don't you get yourself five dark glass bottles: four in 1l size, one in 0.5l size. Make up Xtol in a plastic bucket but with de-ionized water (look around for it in car repairs and such) and forget all other developers as long as you stay overseas.</p>

<p>Xtol at 1+1 and 1+2 (for high-contrast 3 stop-pushes) has an edge over D76 and Microphen in every aspect of negative quality. Heck, even Delta100 negs come beautifully (not so in D76). One double-bag (part a plus part b) will give you 5l of stock solution, which is good for 40 films, or more.</p>

<p>Give away the D400 to 'friends', swap it for D100, whatever. You got enough Neopan 400, right?</p>

<p>Shoot a lot, have fun, be kind and respectful to all Marrocans - you can count on reciprocity!<br>

Pete</p>

 

<p>Your problem is that you use too many different films. You will never get the most out of them. Settle on two. </p>

<p>I use XTOL.</p>

<p>I use Xtol too. <br />I prefer it over D76 </p>

<p>cheers guys , looks like i'll stick to fewer films ..and start with d76 , sure i'll post few for my new friends :)</p>

<p>Steve .</p>

<p>i like id-11.</p>

<p>HC-110....I tried all kinds of developers for all kinds of film....HC-110 can develop just about anything extremely satisfactorily......and like the above poster said, you mix it as you go from the syrup....and the syrup last pretty near forever. You may however want to buy a syringe <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/176024-REG/Photographers_Formulary_09_0355_Micro_Mixer_Measuring_Syringe_35ml.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/176024-REG/Photographers_Formulary_09_0355_Micro_Mixer_Measuring_Syringe_35ml.html</a><br>

for measuring out the small quantities of developer if you only do one roll at a time.</p>

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<p>i could easily ship most chemicals and supplies from US through b&h or adorma (in powders that is )</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Xtol is really good. Use it diluted 1:1. I find that negatives (TMAX, Acros, and Tri-X) come out a bit sharper and a bit lower grained across the board relative to D-76.</p>

<p>I've stored stock Xtol solution for up to 9 months. The trick to storage longevity is to minimize exposure to oxygen. A mylar bladder, the sort used for large coffee takeout and cheap box wines, work very well. The material is not gas permeable. A simple squeeze of the bladder is all that is necessary to evacuate remaining air every time you draw off liquid for use.</p>

<p>I've stored Xtol for 9 months too, seems to work fine. Excellent all-around stuff and very good for pushing.</p>

<p>I've stored Xtol for 9 months too, seems to work fine. Excellent all-around stuff and very good for pushing.</p>

<p>I've stored Xtol for 9 months too, seems to work fine. Excellent all-around stuff and very good for pushing.</p>

<p>I have had HC-110 for 2 years...... still works what is 9 months? and my Rodinal well please it is the last developer that i will ever need... When all things are dead only Tri-X and Rodinal and HC-110 will be alive with the Cockroaches</p>

 

<p>I have had HC-110 for 2 years...... still works what is 9 months? and my Rodinal well please it is the last developer that i will ever need... When all things are dead only Tri-X and Rodinal and HC-110 will be alive with the Cockroaches</p>

 

<p>I have had HC-110 for 2 years...... still works what is 9 months? and my Rodinal well please it is the last developer that i will ever need... When all things are dead only Tri-X and Rodinal and HC-110 will be alive with the Cockroaches</p>

 

<p>Sorry about the multi post I have no idea what caused it...</p>