F2AS - what is it like?

<p>F2 finders will fit F3 eyepieces, at least the non-HP ones.</p>

<p>699 pounds could buy you a used car AND if you're careful, a cheaper F2 as well. Then you can take pictures AND drive to where the picture taking is going to be done. Motor drives on these older cameras are heavy pigs not much fun to use.</p>

<p>Thats $1130 USD, about 200 short of what an F6 went for yesterday on the Bay. I wouldnt spend my money on an enormous and old F2, get a newer and much much better camera.<br>

You could always get the F4 with MB-20, its my favorite camera and indestructable. Built in motor drive and is ofter touted as the best manual camera Nikon ever built. It works with almost every lens, and has nice matrix metering even with older lenses.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The price does seem rather high, but what do I know? I bought an F2 with some non-working meter, replaced it with the standard DE-1 prisim finder (which I got for a steal) and use the same incident meter I use when shooting medium format.</p>

<p>Given the price and the fact that these are old cameras that many may have seen some heavy use by the pros they were intended for, I'd suggest getting one on the cheap and having it overhauled for peace of mind. I've had my F2 for little less then a year and it has had to be serviced twice. I'm still out a lot less then you would pay so as mentioned, the example you are considering I would expect to be mint condition and in perfect mechanical condition.</p>

<p>PS - One thing to watch out for; and I didn't know this when I bought my F2: Look very close at the shutter curtains. I've read that over the years of heavy use, the titanium shutters can develop very small cracks that will result in light leaks. Replacing these is apparently so labor intensive i.e expensive that it was suggested that getting another body to use would be cheaper. Maybe this is just an urban legend of sorts, I cannot recall where I read this, but I thought I'd just toss this out anyway. Buyer beware as we say in the states.</p>

<p>The F2AS is a nice camera, but IMHO, it's really not all that much better than an F2S or an F2A, or even a plain F2. BTW, you can get an F2AS from reliable ebay sellers who will stand by the purchase, for $400-500 depending upon the condition. An F2A can be gotten for under $250, and an F2S can be gotten for under $200 from similarly legitimate sellers. A really clean plain old F2 Photomic can be had for under $150.<br /> <br /> If you are going to use the camera seriously, you could expect to spend another $150 to have someone like Sover Wong put it in fighting trim, or you could buy one directly from Sover for around the same as the ebay prices plus $150 or so, already put through it's checkup and CLA.<br /> <br /> If it were me, I'd take a pass on the F2AS. I use an F2 with plain prism that is my no-electricity, nuclear winter camera - but that costs a tiny fraction of what a good F2AS does. For actual use with a meter, you would be better off with the combo of an F3HP and an FM2n. Those two bodies together could easily be obtained for $350-400 total US in excellent shape. And that tandem would have substantially more functionality, and substantially better reliability due to backup redundancy when compared to that of a single F2AS.<br>

I see that you already own an F3 and an FM3a. Which is slightly better than the tandem I just recommended. So my take is, you don't need it. Not in the slightest. If you would like a purely mechanical F2, get one with either a plain prism, or a plain old DP-1 finder. Those could be gotten quite cheaply. and save yourself $900-$1000.</p>

 

<p>You should have a look and see how it feels in your hands and how it focuses lenses for you. An F2AS with a manual 24mm Nikkor can shoot quicker than your F6 can in certain conditions shooting an event like a wedding.</p>

<p>Thank you for the help. I will be looking at the camera - it is not often that I get a chance to hold the Nikon classics, however after whet you have all said I will not be letting my heart rule my head and I am fully aware that I will see no difference in my photos if I did buy it. In reality there are other items that I should be saving up for - a digital SLR for one thing.</p>

<p>upon seeing this post, I felt the urge to pull out my F2sb and relive some memories -I was almost tempted to put batteries in it. Maybe at some local event where, when I fire it up, I can scare small children and the local constabulary will immediately start looking for the source of the machine gun (MD-2/MB--1 combo). I can also use the combo to stop my truck from rolling down any hills by jamming it under the tires. Improve your photos, change them - no; but there will be an ambiance that other bodies just don't give you.</p>

<p>One really nice feature of the F2AS, often overlooked, is the fact that the resale value of these things seems to maintain and is, at least gradually increasing. That may not happen with a new digital camera until the new digital camera becomes a "classic" in thirty years.</p>

<p>You will be able to unload the thing if you don't like it for at least what you paid for it. Nice!</p>

<p>Then, of course, you may find you have a use for the camera. You may find that the camera puts nothing in the way of a good photograph as countless other have found before you. Ernest Hemingway used a typewriter, Frederick Forsyth still does.</p>

<p>The F2 will put nothing in the way of creating an image.</p>

<p>Paul, they only hold their value for as long as the meter head is functioning properly. When the meter fails - and they DO fail, they instantly lose at least 80% of their worth. They are an investment bubble in microcosm. That's why I recommended getting a much less costly variant of the F2 for the same tactile sensation and capability. This is why my F2 has a plain prism finder. The rest of the body is pretty well bullet-proof, and it's only the meters that fail. So the less you spend on the meter, the less you have to lose on an F2.</p>

<p>Just saw a nice looking F2AS sell on ebay (250453909317) but even then I wasn't interested.<br /> </p>

<p>Your F3 is superior and you have the FM3a to back it up. And that's not even considering the F6. The F2 won't do anything for you. Save your money for glass or a digital body.</p>

<p><em>Maybe at some local event where, when I fire it up, I can scare small children and the local constabulary will immediately start looking for the source of the machine gun (MD-2/MB--1 combo).</em></p>

<p>Last time I used the motor on my F2AS, I was standing shoulder to shoulder with a videographer at an equipment dedication ceremony. Poor woman couldn't get away from me fast enough (completely swamped her audio)!</p>

<p>The F2 was THE nikon, easy to use rugged and top quality. Diode lightmeters are fun to use and accurate. The F2 still operates w/o battery and for anyone with a feel for wel built things i'ts a treat. Now pricewise be careful really mint are v expensive but v good users can be cheap. I use it with the MD noisy and heavy but it really feels great at 4 frames/sec. The viewfinder is great as well. Take it from a Leica Man (me) it's e superb tool perfectly usable and SH lenses MF are v cheap. Buy one! </p>

<p>Nobody was knocking the F2. An F2 can be a treat AND a bargain in the market. It's specifically the DP-12 meter head, which makes one's F2 into an F2AS that is the dubious value proposition, given it's cost, and it's propensity to shuffle off it's mortal coil (or resistor, or diode, or whatever).</p>

<p>OK, update time. The F2AS was as described, and after trying it out I could see the appeal right away, but I am strong and said "thanks for showing it to me". HOWEVER under the counter he has (from the same seller) an F2SB, with correct motorwinder, all boxes and papers and in M- condition for 500 pounds. That was lovely and my head was reeling at the sight of it. However, I thought of what you all said and kept my composure and told myself not to succumb to temptations. Any info on the SB model - I do gather that it is rarer.</p>

<p>Ian</p>

<p>Yes,it is rarer.<br>

I remember last year,a excellent SB from Sweden was sold for over $1,000.00.<br>

I wanted it ,but it was much money...</p>

<p>The SB (DP-3) has the same meter as the AS (DP-12), except it is pre-AI, so it will do full-aperture metering with AI and pre-AI lenses, and stop-down metering with AF lenses that have aperture rings. The meter in the DP-3 and DP-12 finders is among the most sensitive ever - at the low end, where it counts - and matched only by the old Pentax LX and the much younger Leica M6ttl. That's one advantage it has over the F3's meter. Another is that, in the dark, those LEDs are much easier to work with than the F3's inadequate backlit display.<br /> I agree that the prices you quoted above are too high in the current market, but there are reasons why both the F2SB and F2AS are highly regarded. Also, many repair shops would be surprised to learn that the F2's various meters cannot be repaired and kept going.</p>

<p>The Nikon F2 with the DP-1 finder is the least expensive and earliest variation of the series. I bought a very good black example from the auction site for about $250.00 US. (Get lucky one day, find a DP-12 head and you have a F2AS.) My camera has been well used and the meter is still very accurate when compared to my F3. These are not uncommon cameras, they should be easier to acquire as people become more and more dazed by automation and the digital revolution. A motor drive can be bought separately at any time which should make the initial cost easier.</p>

<p> </p>

<p><a href="http://www.soverf2repair.webs.com/">Sover Wong</a> is the man for all sorts of F2 repairs, including meters. And he's in the UK. He might even have one or two to sell you, fully refurbed.</p>

<p>I own a mint condition F2SB, purchased from a person who bought "one of everything" when new and held on to them for awhile. I paid $600 for it about 12 years ago and it has just been on display since then, or packed carefully in a Pelican case. Also got a couple of lenses that are in equally pristine condition. For extra $ of course. The price on the AS seems somewhat high to me, but it all depends on how important it is to you.</p>

<p>FYI, an absolutely gorgeous black F2AS just went unsold on the 'bay for $625. If you are interested, search completed items for #290328116727</p>

<p>I recently sold two "mintish" F2A's on Ebay for ~$350 each. They're beautiful cameras, and if I was assembling a collection of great mechanical pro SLRs (a collection that would include an F, F2, Canon F-1 and Minolta XM) I would have held on to one. HOWEVER, beautiful as the F2A is, as a photographic tool my equally mintish $200 F3HP blows it out of the water - better viewfinder, better metering IMO (80/20 vs the F2's 60/40), better motor drive, automatic exposure, better flash (although the F3's flash capability is barely adequate, you can still get TTL exposure). I don't even think the F2 is the pinnacle of mechanical SLRs - I have to give that title to the Olympus OM3T - it may not have the "gravitas" of the F2, but IMO it is as well constructed, has better weather sealing and has the best metering system of ANY manual SLR.</p>

<p>I found two more.<br>

One,says new,for $2500.00,and one says mint,mint,mint,for $1500.00,item number 110402184196.<br>

Has photos showing it as really new.<br>

I admire them,but I already have two of them,(not so new indeed),so let some other guy take care of them.</p>

<p>Hi Ian,<br>

I just found this thread by chance, as I don't access photonet very often. (I'm mainly on the Yahoo NikonMF users group.)<br>

If the condition is truely mint-, then £699 is actually not a bad price. I serviced two mint- F2ASs for Grays in London earlier this year, and they were sold fairly quickly for over £1000 each. (Prices of cameras in Europe are much higher than the US. It's because companies offer greater discounts there, because the market is so much bigger.)<br>

The F2 is a grand camera. It is beautfully built, like a Rolls Royce, but you can treat it rough like a work horse - which it was designed for.<br>

It is true that the DP-3 and DP-12 (F2SB and F2AS) have the best electronics, but they have the weakest ring resistors and there are no more spare parts. When their ring resistor wears out, it is impossible to get stable meter readings. I can only recondition about 50% of the DP-3/12 ring resistors. So 50% of DP-12s are either junk or becoming junk.<br>

For some reason, the F2 did not come with an eye piece. However, you can use FM, Nikkormat and F3 eye pieces and correction lenses on F2 finders. Also, you can buy rubber rings from Nikon to go over the Nikkormat and F3 eye pieces and correction lenses. (I have these rubber rings in stock if people can't get them from Nikon, as they are on special order only, and 2 months lead time.)<br>

F2s are over 30 year old, so like 30 year old watches, there are minor problems with them. Generally very fast shutter speeds are inaccurate, and all the light seal foams are sticky. So they should be serviced or at least refoamed before use.<br>

My very first impression of the F2 was a negative one - too expensive, and too heavy. But, as many people know, I love the camera now.<br>

I am interested where this shop is. Can you send me their contact details? My email address is :<br>

<a href="mailto:soverf2repair@yahoo.com">soverf2repair@yahoo.com</a><br>

Regards,<br>

Sover</p>