bob_cook

<p>I would think knowing the number of shots remaining, at a specific resolution/file size, would be much more useful than knowing how many gigs of memory are left. The former requires no long division in my head.</p>

<p>John - I much prefer number 2. Nice work.</p>

<p>Thanks for posting, Greg. Nice work. Lens flare in wide angles is nothing new, I guess; I would have expected it to be an issue in the conditions you describe. </p>

<p>Here's a link to a review of the lens on the Steve Huff site:<br> http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2016/10/20/the-olympus-7-14-pro-zoom-dont-fight-the-addiction-by-craig-litten/</p> <p>May be of interest to you if you are considering this lens.</p>

<p>Correcting my post above - I have the first generation of the Panasonic 20mm, not the II. Still a great lens, at least for me. It is my walk-around lens on the EM10.</p>

I use the 12-40 and 40-150 pro lenses. I think they are as good as any zooms (and some primes) as any I have used over many years of photography. I also have the Panasonic 20 Gerry mentioned. Also very nice. I use an M10 first version and an M1.

<p>Same on my E-M10. Sanford is correct.</p>

<p>I have the same experience - almost exclusively medium format for years. I have the 12 - 40 2.8 which I think is exceptional. I have ordered, and will have in hand tomorrow, the 40 - 150 2.8. Neither meets your cost criteria, but may be worth considering. The reason I don't use primes is because I shoot a lot of moving water in mountain streams. Sometimes there is only one vantage point so the zooms are very handy. I also have the Lumix 20mm 1.7 which I use as a walk-around lens on an EM-10. It is also very good. I'm going to be taking a six-week trip through the Canadian Maritime provinces later in the summer, and hope to use all three extensively.</p>

<p>Does anyone have any experience yet with the 40 -150 Pro lens with the dedicated 1.4 teleconverter?</p>

<p>I really like this little camera. Easy to haul around, and with the Panasonic 20 mm it's just the right field of view for me. Plus nice features. Didn't get anything worth showing during a trip to Key West, but the basic snapshots looked great.</p>

<p>Thanks for the tips. First use coming up Sunday and Monday during a trip to Key West, Florida.</p>

<p>Just picked up a reconditioned original EM-10 to go with my EM-1. I love the size for non-critical travel and walk-around stuff. I'm pretty sure my Panasonic 20mm 1.7 will be permanently attached.<br> Anything I should know in particular? Set it up in a pretty standard way, I think.</p>

<p>Greg - are those Water Moccasins? Wow, too close for my comfort.</p>

<p>I just ordered this. I'll let you know what I think not that it matters. Hopefully it has some step-by-step instructions for setting up custom menus, etc. That's the help I need.</p>

<p>Thanks for your answers. Just ordered one from B&H. I'll use it for some "intimate" landscape stuff I like to do, and my son will use it for his underwater stuff. In a housing, of course.</p>

<p>I'm trying to figure out if the Panasonic 8mm fisheye for micro 4/3s is really a fisheye, i.e. curvilinear. As opposed to a super wide rectilinear lens. Haven't had a chance to actually mount one on my EM-1, but want something really wide. Anyone with practical experience who can help?</p>

<p>Gerry - early report is that it wasn't what I was hoping it would be. Has a lot of descriptions of features and what you can do, but not how to specifically program the menus to do anything. I know - I'm looking for the easy way out. I should spend a couple of days in a closet with just the camera and figure it all out. But I was hoping for someone to do that for me:) I may return it to B&N today (if they are open on the holiday).</p>

Thanks Gerry. I'm off to Barnes and Noble to order my very own copy.

<p>Gerry, thanks for posting. My local B&N doesn't have this in stock to look at, so maybe you can answer a simple question:<br> Do the authors give simple instructions to accomplish a task?<br> For example, is there a section on Custom Programs that says "here are the four steps (or whatever) you should follow to create a custom program."<br> Thanks.</p>

<p>I have both the 12 - 40 2.8 Pro, and the newest version of the Panasonic 20mm 1.7. I can't distinguish between the two from an IQ standpoint; however, I mostly carry around the EM-1 with the 20mm. Much smaller and lighter. I'll use the 12 - 40 extensively on actual photo "trips," but the 1.7 is great for walking around.</p>

<p>Peter - I made the change last Fall. Sold all my Nikon digital and film bodies and lenses. Not an insignificant collation; I got a little over $8,000 from KEH, so you know it was a lot of stuff. Took the next step as well and sold my Hasselblad and Rolleiflex. Medium format was getting too difficult to work in for me (others may not agree).<br> Anyway, I bought the EM-1 and the 12 - 40 zoom, and will buy a wide angle pro when it becomes available. IQ is fine for my needs. I don't shoot high ISO, so none of that matters to me. For anything I really care about the camera will be on a tripod.<br> Interestingly, I think I'm going to be able to use the camera much as I would my H'blad. One of the features I like the most is the touch screen focus feature. When I'm standing in a stream shooting a waterfall, I can simply bracket focus by touching the screen, rotated to be parallel to the ground, and use it as a ground glass. I bought the remote release so I can easily deal with the very long exposures I sometimes get into (30 sec to several minutes). And I can even choose the square aspect ratio, which I love!<br> My only concern so far is that there isn't a high quality wide angle zoom with front filter threads, or a rear filter slot. 90% of my work requires a polarizer. Maybe I should have checked that out in advance, but I'll figure something as a workaround.<br> Hope this is informative and helps.</p>

<p>I suggest that you slightly re-wind the film, after loading, and before your first exposure. That has always been standard practice on film cameras. To be more specific, after you load the cassette, and close the back, simply lift up the rewind lever and turn in backwards until you feel resistance. Don't disengage the rewind knob, just lift the lever. That will take all of the slack out of the film windings and should solve your problem. On any of the manual advance Nikons you can do this even if you have a motor drive attached.<br> I guess you could have a problem with the advance mechanism, but I'd be surprised if that is the case. I shot with dozens of bodies starting in 1965, exposing lots of film, and never had an advance mechanism problem in any Nikon.</p>

<p>When I take my eye away from the viewfinder of my V1, it does not return to the monitor display unless I press the On/Off button to turn the camera off and then turn it back on. Otherwise, functions fine. Anyone else experience this?</p>