Your favourite B&W film+developer for landscape and why.

<p>Tri X in HC 110 with added sulphite. Gives roll film quality from 35mm</p>

<p>Piotr, thanks for asking the question.</p>

<p>Michael, stunning shot.</p>

<p>D</p>

<p> </p>

<p>FP4+ in Prescysol. Just because I like it.</p>

<p>Nothing beats the reliability of KODAK TMAX 100 and D76.<br>

www.johnreef.com</p>

<p>>>><a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=1037888">Bill Symmons</a> Tri X in HC 110 with added sulphite. Gives roll film quality from 35mm<<<</p>

<p>I've never heard of adding sulphine, but I'd like to hear more.</p>

<p>Ilford Delta 100 or Fuji Acros in 510-Pyro because I like the results. Now get busy and find out what suits you!</p>

<p>In 60's and 70's, Tri-X in microdol-X,<br /> Now HP5 in Ilford developer.<br /> Best regards,<br /> /Clay</p>

<p>TMX (T-Max 100) in D-76 1:1 for 12 minutes (+ or - 10%). Formulary also makes some fantastic developers.<br>

Bruce</p>

<p>KB 14 and Rodinol at 125/150 to one. consistant each run if a little soft for some folks. I also like diluted microfine and pan x or plus x. I have taken KB 14 up to 20x24 with great grain and contrast. I use all type of Resin and Plain paper Kodak and Illford<br />Try it out to define your ASA and Range. I have also taken D76 on @ 1/4 up to 7 feet.<br />Leon</p>

<p>Tri-X in XTOL 1:1. 7 minutes at 75 F. Agitate 30 seconds in the first minute, and 10 sec every minute after that. I shoot it at 400 and get good shadow detail, but how you meter affects that along with how you rate it. You can only get XTOL in packages to make 5 liters, so I make a batch and put it up in completely full 250ml glass bottles. I always use it within 6 months and never have a problem. I think you will find the advantages of this combination are full film speed and minimum grain. You might prefer the tonality of an older developer like Rodinal. To emphasize what others have said, you have to pick some combinations and try them. I think it's fine to try a combination used by somebody whose work you love, but you might not get the same results because they may do other things differently. I do urge people to try working at 75 degrees unless they live some place really cool in the summer. It's much easier to warm up developer in a water bath than try to hit 68 degrees in the summer where I live.</p>

<p>I really like Arista Premium 100 (rebranded Plus-X) in Microdol-X 1+3. It just has a unique look.</p>

<p>Nobody else using Arista/Plus-X with Rodinal? It's a bit too soon since I've started doing my own B&W again (after a long post-college hiatus) to have formed strong opinions on film/developer combinations but I think it works quite well, and the Arista being half the cost of name brand films is certainly helpful these days...</p>

<p><img src="http://www.andylynn.net/files/04Scan-090617-0003.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Kodak T-Max 100 and D-76 1:1. TMX has never let me down, and I do a lot of dusk shooting where the reciprocity is helpful.</p>

<p>Fomapan 100 in Beutler<br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2255/2828899188_14651d7ec2.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="500" /></p>

<p>Ilford all the way! Delta 100 when the light's available,rated at 100 in dd-x.Delta 400 in lower light,rated 400,500,800 and sometimes even 1600,all in dd-x.For long exposure night shots it's back to Delta 100,I've exposed it for up to an hour with great results.It's trial and error and personal preference.Have fun!</p>

<p>400 TMAX in Xtol 1:1 at 21°C, small grain</p>

<p>man, seeing so many different combinations can make your head spin and confidence weak. i sue ilford delta 100 @50 or pan f+ @25 and develop in ddx or perceptol. but recently i used some d-76 thinking i was skimping because i was out of ddx and,well...we used d-76 in college over 20 years ago...can't be any good...hahaha. i was very surprised, especially with a roll of fp4.<br />but, shooting the way i do, in deeps woods, almost all white water, waiting for "crappy wather" but good soft light...i really need to explore stand development.<p>

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<p>Get an Easy available film, like Ilford HP5+ or kodak tri-X<br>

and an easy available developer and stick to it so that you get to know the combo inside out. Also use the film at box speed in the begining so that you know how it wil behave on standard use. Later you can start to experiment.</p>

<p>IMHO, what's most important is staying with a film/developer combination to really unsersatnd behavior. Some folks seem to change weekly.</p>

<p>Fuji Across in Rodinal 1+50 (12.5 min) works well for my landscape work.</p>

<p>I more or less agree with Erwin & Robert: I try to limit myself to just a few films (across in rodinal for good light/tripod, delta3200 in microphen for handheld indoors). Want to start experimenting with IR as 3rd choice of film...but don't want to extend/change more...</p>

<p>Lately, it's been Acros 100 (rated @ E.I. 80) in HC-110.</p>

<p>I like great tonaliy, a wide range of detail and high acutance. This translates into Tri X in Prescysol EF - a film of unequalled tonality and exposure tolerance with one of the best high acutance developers around.<br>

<a href="

<p>EFKE 25 in Rodinal or the Dr5 process. </p>

<p>Anthony</p><div></div>