How long to fix? How many reuses?

Two questions in one:

 

How long should I fix and wash for? I am using Ilford HP5 400 with Kodak

hardening fixer (not rapid fixer).

 

Also, how many times can I reuse the fixer? I'm essentially pouring 20 ounces

of the fixer into a tank with one reel of 35mm (even though it only requires 10 oz).

Oh yeah; how long must I wash if I plan on using Hypo clearing agent at the end?

In fact, can someone just tell me exactly what to do the moment my fixer is poured into my tank to hanging up the negs?

 

BTW, I have HCA but no photo-flo, so I'm thinking of using diluted alcohol.

All your answers are on the fact sheet for HP5 on Ilford's site:

 

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006216122447.pdf

The Ilford data sheet has instructions for Ilford's fixer. You should check Kodak's site for instructions for the fixer you're using.

 

To test fixing time, take a piece of undeveloped film (like your film leader) and immerse it in fixer, swirling every so often. Keep track of the time it takes for the film to lose its cloudiness -- this is the "clearing time". Fix for three times the clearing time.

 

I believe Ilford specifically recommends using a non-hardening fixer, after which HCA and a long wash are not needed.

I used to use that fixer and I think the time was about 5 minutes. I could do about 15 rolls with that 20 ounces or so.

I just processed my first two rolls of HP5, using Ilford fixer, I timed about 5 minutes. After 2 minutes, you should be able to check, according to some of the books I've read, although, I haven't done this.

I reuse fixer, any brands, for about one development cycle, sometimes I have 6-8 rolls, sometimes I have 2-4. As I understood, the fixer time is not vital, following the instruction as guideline, plus 1-2 minutes.

 

You can check if you want, take out the reel, see the negatives against the light, some experiences of quick judging negatives may help, as long as I can see the frames. If I can't see anything, I know I screw up, don't even have to go to next step.

What type of tank are you using? If you have a Paterson plastic tank then when you get to the fixing stage, drop in the leader which you cut off before loading the film into the reel. Put the lid back on and agitate continuously for a minute. Examine the leader - if it's clear then fix for at least as long again.

 

As for washing, use the Ilford Method, i.e. three (or four) changes of water, giving 5, 10 20 (and even 40) inversions of the tank at each change. Ilofrd state that 20 inversions for the final wash is sufficient, but I give a final 40 inversions since my water is usually below 15 C.

 

Then give a final rinse in water plus wetting agent.

David,

That's exactly my current combination of chemicals. Here is what I do:

 

Fixer: 5 min, where you agitate for 15 sec., let it rest for 15 sec., and so on for the entire time.

 

I keep my whole gallon of pre-mixed fixer in a plastic bottle and use it for the entire 2 months that Kodak suggests as storage time. I just pour it into my measuring cup, and after use back into the bottle. I am not a huge user, but after about 10 rolls or (of 120 film), I extended the time to 7 minutes, since one of my rolls came out a little pink. In total, I got about 20 rolls of 120 film and 2 tanks (of 6 sheets of 4x5 film, each) processed -- just as a reference, in case you are doing 5 rolls per week, or something...

 

Hypo Clear: Again just following the instructions from Kodak, which says 2 minutes with constant agitation.

 

Washing: 5 minutes under continuously running tap water. I dump out the tank every 30-40 seconds, and "pump" the reel up and down vigorously while the tank is filling.

 

PhotoFlo: Definitely use PhotoFlo. It's cheap (1 ml per 20 oz. -- mixed with _distilled_ water) and works like magic...

 

By the way, I assume you have the "standard" black-and-red plastic tank. If you do and you ever do 120 film, then use 25 oz. -- using 20 oz. as the tank says will leave you with lots of spots since the developer won't cover the whole roll/reel...

 

Cheers,

Mike

If you want to fix thoroughly and get the most out of your fixer ie least waste, then use two fixing baths. I change one bath(500mls) after every 15 films. run a search on here for two bath fixing as it's been covered lots of times.

"BTW, I have HCA but no photo-flo, so I'm thinking of using diluted alcohol.

 

Get some PhotoFlo. You'll regret not having it.

Alright folks, I've developed my very first roll and it is PERFECT or nearly.

 

It was hard to gauge my clearing time, so I fixed (hardening fixer btw) for 10 minutes, then used HCA for recommended time.

 

Well, I washed for five, and I have one 35mm reel in a Paterson tank which can hold two. I refilled the tank once per 30 seconds while pumping the reel up and down.

 

Well, when I hung up the film to dry, there were droplets all over it, and I had no distilled water or wetting agent. So I ran the film through a large tub of shampoo water, because I read that somewhere. Giant streaks were showing up, or so it seems, so I panicked after this.

 

I ran the film through isopropyl alcohol and tap water and the droplets wouldn't go away. Halfway through drying, I wiped the film down with toilet paper in a desperate attempt to remove the streaking.

 

But when I came back, the negatives were grey AND I couldn't find any streaks/water marks. I ran it through my film scanner, since I don't have a darkroom and there is some dust, which may be either on the film or from the scanner (since the scanner is cheap). I guess that hardening fixer really does a good job at protecting that stuff.

<strong><a href = "http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007dXZ" target = "_blank">Why two step fixing is a Really Good Thing</a></strong>

I test my fixer before every roll of film I process. Clip the leader and time the length of time it takes to clear; fix for twice that time. I'm not sure how long the fixer actually lasts, since I test it every time and when it stops working, I mix more. One thing I will suggest, however, is that you check the directions to get an idea how long it should take to clear the film. If it takes more than about half again as long, I dump and mix new, both because I don't want to be fixing film for half an hour, and also because I don't want the fixer to completely exhaust during the fix bath. Never had that happen, but I don't care to try.

 

For removing water droplets, if they don't run off with photo-flo, an ordinary kitchen sponge, new, and well-rinsed (I run them through the wash cycle once) works fine and minimizes spotting.