dennisbrown

My "real" go to, when I was doing weddings was an original Quantum Q Flash and Turbo battery. While it didn't have the same output power as my Armatar 200WS unit, it provided great illumination, and it never failed. I even mounted it on a light stand for fill flash when I used power pack lights.

I have some older Bogen/Manfrotto hex plates, and they're convered in a similar cork-based material. They've held up quite well over the years, and they still have resiliency. I believe you can get sheets of the cork compound with an adhesive on the back.

I believe neoprene is fairly dense. And, I'm sure it comes in various densities, depending on the needed application. I've used it to create my own camera plate mounts. It has always come back to its original dimensions, within limits. It was one of the first polymers. I don't believe that any of the more modern "rubbers" are actual natural rubber anyway. Natural rubber, even treated, eventually hardens and becomes brittle.

Just a guess, but I'd imagine that it's some type of neoprene compound. Neoprene tends to hold its elasticity, and is not affected as much by heat and cold. You might try a Google search for sheets of adhesive backed neoprene. McMaster-Carr also has it in stock in various dimensions. McMaster-Carr

Here's a chart prepared by Ken Rockwell which shows compatibility of various Nikkor lenses and cameras. Nikon Lens Compatibility

My Bogen 3036 levers would occasionally loosen, and I'd need the included wrench to tighten them. My 3021 and 3033 have never come loose, and those have been used for over 25 years. I have twist locks on my Manfrotto carbon fiber; they're a bit slow in setting up, but remain very secure.

This is only anecdotal, since I don't have the references now, but the 50mm f1.4 FD was long considered THE standard by which other optics were judged. There were a lot of articles in Modern and Popular Photography magazines which lauded the lens. They were universally impressed with the contrast and lack of chromatic aberration. I use both the Canon 50mm f1.4 FD, and my Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI-s lenses, and both are my "go to" lenses when I need speed and clarity. I've just been using an Olympus OM2-n, and its 50mm f1.8 is a very fine lens. As denny_rane noted:

Just saw this on eBay. Looks like it might be the right one. Tiltall Quick Release Plate, Medium, Length 50 mm #QR-50 | eBay

The tripod head doesn't look like a Tiltall head. The heads on the ones I've seen, are either ball, or three-way. Is there a model number anywhere on the tripod?

And a P/S to John's post - Don't forget to clean the ground. In the battery compartment you can get a cold ground if anything impedes the current flow. Get some Scotch Brite and clean the inside of the battery cap along with the contacts in the bottom.

You might have some success with choke tube holders. They're generally the same diameter as the shotgun barrel exterior diameter, which runs around 7/8". Diameter of the spool ends of 120 film is around 7/8" also. There are also choke tube holders which take the form of a zippered case with elastic bands in them. Just a thought.

As with a couple of others, I do like the Yashica Electro 35's (GT, GS, etc.) They meter very accurately even when substituting silver oxides for mercury batteries. The shutters are dead quiet, and I always like the bright viewfinder. As an aside, a number of years ago (mid-70's?), Popular Photography did an article on the "enlargement" of the 35mm camera. From the first Leica types, they eventually showed the evolution to an SLR with a motor drive, 250ft film back, and other accessories. They compared that to the Rollei 35, a truly compact camera. Very interesting article, indeed.

I'm not a proponent of the comment, just stating what I've read over the years about the F4. Yes, it's clunky, made more so by adding the "s" version. I'm more disappointed about the bleeding LCD as much as anything; a distraction in the viewfinder.

I've owned both, and I sold the 18-35. I've been very happy with the 16-35. I really wanted the VR, and the guy selling it made me a screaming good deal. In fairness, the 18-35 may be a tad sharper, but I tested both at similar focal lengths but couldn't tell a great deal of difference in the images. I'm sure there will be others along soon who will extol one over the other.

Your friend is not the first who considered the F4 as the best manual focus camera ever built. I've read similar comments, some to the effect that it was a manual focus camera with AF crammed into it. Can't say that I disagree with that assessment.

There's virtually no exemption on paying use tax on out of state purchases, unless those items are exempt in your home state (e.g. food, prescription drugs, etc.). While people refer to paying sales tax on those purchases, the correct term is use tax. States are now resorting to demanding that companies like B&H notify them of shipments to consumers in their states. On another chat site, a user in Colorado received a letter from B&H, stating that his purchases (over $3K) had been reported to the Colorado taxing authorities. That type of action forces the issue, knowing that Colorado is likely to dun the resident for payment of Colorado's use tax. I would imagine that companies would comply rather than have to fight x number of lawsuits filed by various states. The state treasurers all communicate with each other, either through normal means, or during confabs. They'll figure out a way to get the tax money due.them.

If you have access to a small grinder, or Dremel Tool, you might be able to grind down a very fine phillips head to mimic the JIS slots. I did this a few years ago to salvage the screws from a trashed RB67.

There's an entry on Camera Wiki which shows a black F with the scripted "F". Can't post a link.

I haven't owned any Olympus cameras before today, having only used a Pen FT in the late 60's-early 70's. I wasn't a huge fan of the half-frame, and I liked Nikon and Pentax a lot more. A local dealer has had a boxed OM-2n, along with a boxed 50mm f/1.8 lens listed on eBay. It sat for a couple of weeks, but today I decided that it needed a new home. It's an amazingly compact body, and the only "hiccup" for me, is the shutter speed dial on the front of the body, a la Nikkormat. I'll put some Portra 400, or Velvia through it this weekend, and see how it does. I'm very impressed with the fit and finish, and the fact that Olympus crammed a lot into a little space.

Having used an F3 starting in the late 80's, and adding an MD-4, I must say, that even with weight considered, they've become mandatory for my photography. Electronic film advance won me over with my Pentax SF-1. Before that the film advance lever was a subconscious hindrance, but the value in not having to remove your eye from the finder is immeasurable. I'm enjoying a resurgence of film shooting, and I use Nikon, Pentax, and Canon. They all have motor drives, or power winders. Not only do they help me in maintaining concentration on the subject, but in many instances the additional weight actually helps me balance the camera/lens better. My medium format Mamiya M645 Pro-TL always has the power advance on it. Now, if I could just figure out a way to engineer a motor drive for my Super Graphic and my Cambo SC... ;) ;) ;)

The Nikon USA web site show the F6 and FM10 as "Temporarily out of inventory", and their product data is under the "Archives" section. Tells me that their days are over as far as new stock goes. However, I still use my F6, F4, F3, FM2, FE, FE2, and FA. I'll use them until film goes away, or they die. The glass is great, and I'm scanning all results to digital. I also shoot medium format on Mamiya gear, and it'll be the same as 35mm.

I joined last June, but it appears that I didn't "set up" my name correctly. As such, I've been unable to post, send messages, etc. I've tried contacting support via email, and in December, I wrote a letter, mailing it to your P.O. Box in N. Andover, MA. Also, in June, I paid for a premium membership. So, for the past seven months, I've been an observer. Last month, I finally tried joining using a different email address, and I allowed my full name to be my web page address on Photo.net. I've even paid an additional $29.95 for another premium membership. Now, everything works as it should. My biggest complaint is the gymnastics I've gone through, and an apparent lack of response to email, and snail mail. Would it be possible to extend my membership through my "new" email address, and to cancel my old user I.D.? I'd prefer not to publish both email addresses. My other concern is the "time zone" stamp on posts. It seems that you use a "native" time zone, and post time stamps seem out of kilter (at least to me). Is there a way to "personalize" the time zone? Thanks.

I used to own the F5, and if memory serves, Nikon recommends Ni-MH, Lithium, or alkalines for the power source. And mine was extremely touchy about clean contacts. I kept them clean, and used a fiberglass contact cleaner, and it helped a great deal. Don't know if you'd want to use rechargeables in it, since those voltages vary from nonrechargeables, and the amperage may be incorrect. Just a thought.

I've been using a used version for over three years and it's as quiet now, as it was when I bought it. I use it a lot for nature and long distance landscapes with no problems at all. It's solidly built, and I actually sold off my old 300 f/4 AF ED IF to fund it.

I own both the D500 and D750. They are "horses for courses". I like using the D500 for macro and close-up work, where my images don't need a huge amount of "blow-up" for prints. My D750 gets most usage for scenics and nature. Not a big fan of the built-in flashes, since they're too close to the lens axis for my tastes. Pullleaze ---- Don't make me choose!