andyfalsetta

Try Bleeker Digital for processing and Printique (formerly called Adorama) for printing.

Unfortunately the early focal plane shutter Hasselblads (Series One, 1600F, and 1000F) also don't have benefit of a mirror pre-release function. Aside from the differences in shutter between the 1000F and 500C, mirror prerelease and a self timer were two of many innovations the 500C offered for those who wanted to "jump ship" from their focal plane Hasselblads.

How do these cameras accept filters, such as polarizers. It looks like a few shots had the advantage of one.

Sorry I can't help here. Keep searching for a donor lens to get your desired mount off of.

^ what he said. I can't easily access iCloud

Interested in hearing about literature you may have related to the early Hasselblads. Thanks!

The shutter speeds below 1/60th rely on a slow speed geartrain and governor to yield the right speeds. Yours is probably sticky/gummed up. If 1 second is off, all the others are too. A cleaning will fix this. If you are daring, there is a video on Youtube that is about an hour or so long that walks you through this exact problem on a 80mm Plannar. The shutter on your 250mm is the same.

That's a sweet mirror John. Glad it worked out.

I would suggest you open a new thread with your specific problem and this way the responses you get (and the archive that is created) is related to your problem and not someone else's. And yes, the first thing to do is remove the idler gear and release the "clockspring" within the gear that drives the film magazine before removing the cover. This way the spring stays contained within the recess of the gear/spring barrel. When you open the new thread I have some questions to ask before making suggestions.

Thanks to the scammers who contacted me (but failed) and to one very special person. I now have my 1600, thanks to them. Happy Ending!

Hi Ben, yes these are great cameras I carry one when on vacation so I can still shoot 6x6 when I want to. The top cover on these comes off easily and its pretty intuitive. You can pull out that troublesome disc and clean the rangefinder optics at the same time. GLWS

John, the viewfinder CAN be removed. And yes, the surface reflector mirror is so fragile that cleaning it will wipe the reflective material right off. I have put off ordering a mirror from the fellow recommended above but I should. To remove the viewfinder, first, there are two brass "nails" that secure the facia on the front of the viewfinder. Gently get underneath them and pry them off. They are reusable. I found that a tool designed to pull watch hands off serves well to remove these once you loosen them slightly by prying under the head. Be careful because the facia is a thin tin piece that is easily deformed. Good news is as easily as it is bent, it can be straightened if need be. Removing this facia reveals two of the three screws that hold the viewfinder in place. After removing these two flat head screws, remove the two screws holding the depth of field scale plate and withdraw the plate. Then turn the camera around and on the back, there is a (nickel) plated screw just above the film transport release button. Withdraw this screw and the finder will lift out. This gives access to the mirror but as you mentioned, it is too fragile to be cleaned. I find the "coffee can" to be a very cool TLR and capable of great vintage images.Good Luck! Andy

I've been watching this listing with interest - admittedly at first as a potential buyer. However the bids have gotten just crazy with 9 hours to go. In all fairness the camera body, magazine, and finder are in excellent cosmetic shape. The lens has a dented filter ring and the shutter is jammed. Inoperative shutter is the primary failure point and cause of death for these early cameras especially if left unused. Checking Hasselblad shipping records, the lens and body were mated at the factory but the magazine is not original to the camera. Looking at the film advance knob, the tell-tale bulge under the leatherette at the center of the knob indicates the last tech to touch this camera was - to put it nicely - unfamiliar with these cameras. Will this set a new high water mark for inoperative 1000Fs.? Hasselblad 1000F 6x6 Medium Format SLR Camera - Beautiful Cond...READ | eBay

Yes I tend to agree.

Sorry for not seeing this sooner. The best approach is to break the problem down to its smallest component. In this case, the body. Remove the film magazine and lens and see if the film advance knob allows you to reset the shutter. If not, the problem is in the body. Just FYI, when a 500C/500CM shutter release is pressed, it sets things into motion. 1. the mirror begins traveling upward. 2. after approximately 2/3 travel upward, the auxiliary shutter flaps open 3. traveling a bit further upward, the shutter mechanism is released. 4. removing your finger from the shutter release button allows the aux shutter flaps to close. 5 When you wind the advance knob the mirror will come down and the shutter release mechanism resets for another shot. A properly operating body will do all these things with no film magazine, lens, or viewfinder. The drive mechanism that the advance knob is attached to, has a cam on it that pushes the mirror down to its "home" position, where it latches in place. Where in its 360 degree rotation, is the advance knob? The correct home position is with the solid red circle aligned with the indicator on the body.

LOL. Well I certainly haven't been at the front of the line. My archaic P45+ has CCD technology. Rather than step into the Roaring 20s, I'm happy where I am and instead, put a new roof on my house. Thanks for the theory lesson though.

Just a side note to this very interesting conversation. I've seen it written more than once that focus is critical when using a digital back on a V System body. The explanations I have seen many times mention the thickness of film emulsion being more forgiving than the relatively flat surface a of a CCD. Apparently film "absorbs" focus error that a CCD can not because of the emulsion thickness. I surely don't know enough to argue with this logic - it makes sense to me. Where I can add to this is mention of the condition of mirror pads in these sometimes 60 year old machines. Hasselblad placed the mirror on three pads within the mirror frame. They are arranged pretty much like a triangle with one pad at the center top of the mirror (the pivoting end of the mirror frame) and two in the corners at the bottom (closest to the lens). These pads "perish" as the Brits like to say. This allows the mirror to move up and down in its frame and makes it unlikely the mirror is restoring to the same point each time the advance knob resets the mirror. This situation is a contributing cause of images that appear in focus on the ground glass but that are not in focus on the film plane. Why Hasselblad chose to use only three pads rather than one in each corner of the mirror is a question I would love to know the answer to. Regardless though, its a safe bet that any V-Series body (including 1600F and 1000F) that has spent the last 20 years in a closet, will need new mirror pads. Does Hasselblad in NJ replace the pads when a body comes in for service? I would hope so. Do other specialists out there do this as well when they service a body? Again, I would hope so but I don't really know. What I do know is that focus errors when using a digital back will only be made worse if the mirror pads are shot and your mirror is moving. When the pads are shot its fairly easy to detect. Remove the lens and rotate the body 180 degrees so that the tripod mount is facing upward. With a toothpick or something that won't scratch the mirror (eraser end of a pencil, a q-tip, whatever) lightly put pressure on the mirror glass to see if it moves within its metal frame. Release the pressure and see if the mirror glass moves back to the original position. Any movement indicates the mirror is not being supported tightly and the pads may need replacing.

I love the Hasselblad and since they are so plentiful, there are lots of repair solutions. Hasselblad still fixes them, there are a few specialists around too. The downside is they too at some point in their lives need the mirror redone. The pads under the mirror perish and I am willing to bet a lot of the Hassies out there could stand their mirror to be repadded. I suspect a full rebuild by David Odess or Hasselblad would include this. If you are a DIY'er this is all within the realm of a reasonably skilled tech on a C/M IMO because the finder screen is easily removeable unlike the 500C which requires a critical readjustment once its been removed. I've heard of owners who have slipped the mirror out the back of the camera (back plate removed) although I have not tried that myself because I believe there are screws under the screen that need to be removed to get the back plate off. Another consideration with the Hasselblad is that each lens has its own shutter mechanism and since they are mechanical, could need attention at some point. If you just plan on having one or two lenses, that's not such a big variable. The Bronica SQ series uses lenses with Seiko shutters that are electronic but virtually bullet proof. The SQA and SQAi with its PS lenses is the best of the lot. Good luck with your ultimate choice.

Aaron I sent a reply via Fred Miranda and would like to follow up with you on the 1600F. My preference would be to work out a trade but I would like to chat with you to see if I have something(s) you find of use or value. If not, we can talk outright purchase. Let me know your thoughts by messaging or via cell. My number here in NY is 631-636-9950

Where are you located?

Excellent points. And some of us even still drive cars that use gasoline!

Christmas in July !

It could be as simple as finding a piece of detriorated foam on the bottom of the ground glass or aserious as a nick in one of the elements of the lens. If its not a flaw in the lens and only viewable through the finder, then, as you probably know, its not going to affect photos.

It seems the hardest F2 to find is one that doesn't work. They are truly at the pinnacle of reliability.

I fully understand the attraction of a low price and how that can get you into digital medium format, but consider the total "cost" to you in monetary and in convenience terms. If you do a lot of outdoor photography, operating tethered is a real challenge - as you are seeing from your initial thoughts on how to use a tethered but portable arrangement. Additionally, consider that money spent on an older back is at risk if something happens to the back. I believe Phase One only supports backs as old as the "plus" series. I am not trying to discourage you from going the route you are pursuing. I too have an older Phase One back and am learning how to use it. As for Capture One, it continues to amaze me.