jo_dad

Thanks for the suggestion guys

anyone?

anybody?

Hey all, I bought an f8 a couple months ago but haven’t had the chance to try it out with film yet but wanted to later this month. Apparently film in the widelux has a rare tendency to slip after it’s been loaded. Actually rear this a couple times once on an FB group and again on another forum. Anyone know about this or experienced this? If so, is there a solution or more (lol) correct way to load it to stop slipping?

Hey all, Bought a widelux recently that’s a bit of a beater. Wanted to know if: 1) anyone know if it’s possible to buy new rubber/leatherette for it to replace the old stuff? Anyone make anything like that? 2) is it possible to repaint this specific camera? Does anyone do this on a widelux and if so, any reviews? 3) if a repaint is not possible or practical, is it possible and practical to do small touch ups to the paintwork? It’s not “regular” single colour stuff. I don’t think it’s actually normal “paint” but I’m not sure... Just want to spruce up the girl a little. I mean she’s real pretty but could do with some new shoes and a haircut lol

oops, sorry Kmac, didn't read your comment properly!

Thanks for your comments guys. There seems to be a general consensus that they will be fine to shoot. I did post the question on various sites and almost all say they will shoot fine. As for the watermark issue, i found a website that lists the emulsion numbers of the films that could be affected : John Sexton.com - Newsletter - May, 2016 The interesting thing from all the peoples answers is the range of prices people suggested. They ranged from almost full price to almost a dollar a roll. the average seemed to be around $3 per roll though.

100 rolls of TMax 120 film in iso400. Exp 11/2013. Always refrigerated. How do you think this would perform and what do you think would be a fair price for the 100? Also, some of the rolls were frozen. Do you think there would be a marked difference in the performance between the refrigerated and frozen rolls?

Thats what i thought before too ...

I have read a few posts about this lens but cant seem to find it online. Does it actually exist?

Any ideas where i can get a neckstrap for my VC meter?

Like either of these two versions.

Like in the subject, Does anyone use the Voigtlander ball and cylinder rubber grips? I have a barnack and an old ricoh SLR and a Rollei 35. Wondering if they would be any use on those cameras? I know they must be super useful on a widelux or noblex but what about "Regular" 35mm cameras?

I don't understand what you mean Bebu

Ok, so im a little confused by Hyperfocal distance because frim my reading, this is just the distance of critical focus where infinity is set at one of the aperture markers for the used aperture. So in the case of this example image below, When using f22, the hyperfocal distance is something like 9m/28 feet. Right? http://www.fineart-photography.com/dof_focus.jpg

Thanks Sanford. What i really want to know is does infinity along the distance scale start at point A, B or C? I know im using the image of a leica lens but im asking generally [ or specifically to a rollei 35SE ;) ]

Im using a rollei 35 so the distance between the corresponding aperture marks on the lens are quite close. Say I'm at f11 and want to use infinity on the far end. Do i place the middle of the infinity sign over the f11 mark or the beginning of the infinity sign over the f11 line? It looks like this would make a fair bit of difference to the closer edge of the DoF. What do you guys think?

Hey guys, I have a Ricoh KR 5 Super II and use a Pentax smc m 40mm 2.8. Infact i picked up the lens specifically for this body. Thing is when i use the lens, 9 out of ten shots, the mirror gets stuck against the lens on its way up. Cant do anything afterwards. Cant wind on, cant use the shutter, changing focus makes no difference once its locked. only thing that works is taking the lens off and that releases the mirror. I can see tiny chips on the bottom of the mirror now and sort of scratch marks on the back of the lens. When i focus at closer than 10m its fine. Soon as i reach just before 10 m and further, it starts catching. Should this be happening? When changing focus, the front and the back move in and out. So as i move to 10 and further, the lens retracts into the camera more. Its a K mount lens but the camera is K mount too... you can see the scratches on the back of lens as well as the chips in the bottom of the mirror.

Thanks again Ed :)

Any Alpa users/shooters in and/or around Zurich?

Thanks Ed. Perhaps i should have elaborated more. Assume having a lens as close as possible to the 38 SWC biogon for the ALPA (not the boigonon made for the ALPA coz i think only 100 or so were made so, dream on) and a 120 film back on the ALPA (granted the alpa will do 6x7 or 6x9, not sure if it takes a 6x6), what would be the difference in use between the two. Both have distorted viewfinders for framing only and guesstimate (or external rangefinder) scale focusing (unless you opt for a tedious ground glass). Often you hear of the SWC being used handheld, in fact it seems its more handheld that tripod use whereas the ALPA seems to be made for tripod use. Why? This is the point. They are actually almost identical but have such different intended purposes/ways of use. Why?

hi all, In a practical usage sense (and yes, ignoring the price difference) how would using the alpa 12tc and the hassy 903/905 be different? Shutter speeds will be about the same. Can get sameish width wide angle lenses for the alpa as the 38 4.5 on the hassy. Can use more lenses on the alpa. Ok the film format is different 6x6 compared to 6x9... What’s the difference in usage and in photo subjects/opportunities then?

Thanks Vin

Thanks very much Ben

Anyone know the difference between the Noblex 135 U & UC. Cant fond anything online showing an actual difference between the two models...