jarrett_hunt

I was planning on pulling the film to iso 100 or 125 if possible.

you make it sound so easy. Honestly I wish we still had Polaroid backs to help.

How does one balance the background ambient light with strobes more easily with a film camera? If I used my digital camera I could do it by playing around with the setting until I found the look like. I know how to light the model using the light. The equipment I have: Mamiya RZ67, 110mm and 180mm lens Sekonic L-308 light meter Einstein strobe light with cyber commander Film with iso 125 to 400 I know the max shutter speed of 1/400th is very slow for day time use unless I raise the aperture. But that wouldn't look so good with portraits when trying to isolate the subject. I could use a ND filter, I do have one in fact. It just make focusing with the rz67 much more difficult. I'm not against using it. Ok lets I go out for a shoot and I didn't bring my D7000 to help find to settings I like. How would I know how bright the background is? Do I point the light meter behind the model and take a reading? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I would like to go out on shoots without relying on my d7000 for help. I also want to get to the point where I'm spending less time messing around with equipment and shooting more.

My favorite

Which focusing screen would be recommend for portraits? I can't find the Type-E screen with the micro prism. Any others that would be brighter and better aid in focusing?

Nice work. Any portraits with this camera?

Thanks for the replies. I will test some rolls with the filter and some without

Greetings, I'm planning on doing some B/W portraits with subjects that have freckles. I dug around on which filter to use so I got a #47 blue filter to make them stand out more. Is there anything else I would need to do? I'm assuming development would be the same. I'm planning on trying out HP4 and FP4 on 120 with a RZ67. I'm still new to film.

<p>I been searching for the repair and service manual for my Konica Autoreflex nT3 for sometime now. Seems like forever, but I finally found it. You are able to order a hardcopy of the manual for your camera. It was hard to find this site because it isn't advertised anywhere. The book arrived today in great condition.<br> Most member here might already know of this site, hopefully someone finds it useful. </p> <p>http://www.photobooksonline.com/books/repair.html</p> <p>The site that I ordered my book from also have other camera make and models:</p> <p>Agfa<br />Airequipt<br />Alpa<br />Ampro Premier<br />Argus<br />Bausch & Lomb<br />Beaulieu<br />Bell & Howell Cameras & Movie Projectors<br />Bell & Howell Filmosound Movie Projectors<br />Bolex<br />Bolsey<br />Bronica<br />Canon Cameras<br />Canon Lenses<br />Chinon<br />Cinema Products<br />Compur<br />Contax (Kyocera)<br />Copal<br />Durst Laborator<br />EIKI<br />Elmo<br />Eumig<br />Fuji<br />GAF / Ansco<br />Graflex / Graphic<br />Hasselblad<br />Honeywell Repronar<br />Honeywell Strobonar<br />Hugo Meyer<br />Ihagee Exakta<br />Inter-Lens Shutter<br />Kalart<br />Kardon<br />Kodak Cameras<br />Kodak Projectors<br />Konica<br />Koni-Omega<br />Kowa<br> Leica<br />Mamiya<br />Miranda<br />Minolta<br />Nikon/Nikonos Cameras<br />Nikon Nikkor Lenses<br />Nikon Speedlights<br />Nikon Motor Drives<br />Olympus<br />Omega<br />Pako/Pakomax/Pakonomy<br />Pathe<br />Pentacon<br />Pentax<br />Petri<br />Polaroid<br />Praktisix<br />Prontor<br />RCA<br />Repronar<br />Ricoh<br />Rollei / Rolleiflex<br />Sankyo<br />Sawyers<br />Singer Projectors<br />Spectra<br />Still Picture Camera<br />Synchro-Compur<br />Sunpak<br />TDC Stereo Cameras<br />TDC Slide Projectors<br />Telex Caramate<br />Topcon<br />Tower<br />Vivitar<br />Voigtlander<br />Yashica<br />Zeiss</p>

<p>He also have had my camera since September 2nd, and haven't been able to get through to him after the email reply he sent back about the delay. He emailed me on November 11th that he was out of the hospital and that he would be getting to the camera in a few weeks. I hope he is doing better. </p> <p>- Jarrett</p>

<p>I would go with the ASUS PA279q it's cheaper than the PA328Q. Unless you need 4k. Look at the reviews for the PS279q. </p>

<p>Well I figured there was a way to shine and polish it. However none of these tips help me in photoshop. </p>

<p>How would one go about cleaning up shiny latex from smudges? It's kicking my butt. I added a link to a dropbox folder with two raw files for an example. Excuse the big black dirt speck on my sensor haha. <br> <br> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/042ecstn16bzkkw/AAB1c63YOaR5pNiSCw40vWPga?dl=0</p>

<p>Thank you for the help</p>

<p>Is it possible to repair one of these units? I have one that won't power on even with fresh batteries. Who could I send it to to get repaired? </p> <p>-Jarrett</p>

<p>Thank you for the help</p>

<p>The marks seem to be burnt into the film. I tried washing the film again. <br> I also attached a photo in the original post. Couldn't figure out how to attach more. </p>

<p>Ok. How did I F**K this up? I have no ideal where these spots came from. Both rolls of 120 messed up. I developed it this same as always, but I messed up somewhere. <br /> The reels were wet when I loaded the film for previous use. I washed everything before I used them in hot water. I don't know if this caused the problem because the film and reels would have been wet anyways if I had pre washed the film. <br /> Could it be developer after I poured it out before I got to add the stop bath? I didn't add the stop bath right away since I forgot it in the bathroom. I had to run and get it.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>I haven't been able to find the type E focusing screens in like forever now. </p>

<p>I know you don't want the RZ67. I would consider it if I was you. I has some improvements and the lovely 110mm 2.8 which is the fastest in the Mamiya 6x7 line</p>

<p>Finally got it fix. The meter worked perfectly fine from the start. The problem was with a bend lever from the previous owner putting on the lens wrong. From what I understand that kept the meter from activating. I also got a battery conversion on the camera. </p>

<p>Nice pictures!! I can't wait to get my T3's light meter in serviceable condition. Trying to use a hand held meter at the dog park wasn't working so well haha. </p>

I have a copy that's in excellent condition, no scratches or anything. The only thing wrong with it is that the light meter doesn't work. I sent it to shop for 3 weeks and the guy couldn't figure it out. I have the T3n and was wondering if they are the same across the the autoreflex family. I will cannibalize a meter if i have to. Hopefully I could get the meter repaired as I love this camera.

<p>I played around with it to check things out. the grip only fires if the shutter button on the body is pressed halfway. I don't know what this means. I now know that the grip is able to fire the body, so I know the shutter button works. </p>

<p>Do anyone know how to take apart the L grip for the rz67? It's not working at all. The button isn't frozen or stuck so I suspect a wiring issue. Also do anyone know if a wiring diagram exist for this thing? </p>