ciaran_mcmenemy

To experiment, I tried making a reversal out of CN film, 800 speed. I initially developed it at 32.C in FD10. The result was film that looked exactly like unfixed BW film, which is perfect. But after carrying out the regular C41 process on it, it's blank. Why? I fogged it it for long enough.

Lately I've been doing reversals. The problem is that they *always* end up with scratches, which must be due to having to take the film out, re-expose it, then struggle to put it back on the ratchet. I'm sure there's a way to do it without light, what chemicals do I need? Is it a chemical which prepares the remaining silver for the developer, or a developer that brings out all the silver itself? If the former, then that would be useful for colour reversal (I'm interested to try slides without E6). Thanks all!

<p>in that case, use a 'wash aid' to make it dry faster. I'm sure most people would mention 'photoflo'. Try to keep the negatives (or positives!) taut. I just hang them from a high bar (IKEA PRESSA) and use two pegs on the bottom. The pegs that come with tanks may work by puncturing the film to grab it - although it's the best hold, the marks can scratch the film if you accidentally rub it against itself.</p>

<p>that's me on the left haha</p><div></div>

<p>.</p><div></div>

<p>Camera? Minolta X300s, Centon lens... never did it to any other films. the 'thing' happened a fair few times. Not just that frame! I'll see if I have more examples.</p><div></div>

<p>So is a paper dev just more stronger than a film dev? I some Fotostop CI(?) chromium intensifier, and it says to use a paper dev. I keep my acid and oxidiser separate - the ox. is potassium permanganate, a lovely purple colour. Afer bleaching, is the solution rendered ineffective for further use? <br> Oh well, maybe I should use a clean second dev solution.<br> Some strange things happened today. I have done two reversals.: the first things is that there were bad surge marks, even though I agitate regular (cont.30 sec, x3 every 30 sec, tap x3 after each). secondly, I redeveloped and the positives looked fine, so I fixed them. After fixing much of the image was lost. Why would that be? Is it a bad idea to fix after second development? Info: HP5 Plus 400 and Lucky SHD 100 as 400. Initial development was as if for the negatives. Bleach 5 min constant agitation. Clearing (that stuff smells funny... I don't trust sodium meta!).Redevelopment in Ilfosol-3.</p>

<p>If you look at the picture you can see what I mean. It happened to a lot of frames, not just this one. <br />I'm wondering why it would be. As far as I'm aware, agitation was a normal 3/30sec, first 30 sec continuous, at a normal speed.<br />The film is Fomapan 100 expired 1999. Is this one of the effects of expired BW film? strange development?</p><div></div>

<p>hello! my bleach i just a 2% H2SO4 and 2g/L KMnO4 solution. Actually, I don't know how to measure such a small amount in grams, so I use a little bit from a teaspoon. anyone have a better approximation?<br> The images I got were sometimes quite 'black' overall so maybe I should try that. Can I re-use the developer after though if it contains fixing solution/crystals? I'm guessing it would give a slight overall reduction in density.<br> The Arrhenius equation is k = Ae^-(Ea)/RT , is there a way to work out volumes with this? Like if I wanted to use 1+19 Ilfosol 3, say. (Incidentally I bought Fotospeed FD10, same dilutions as I-3, only ~£8 (10 to 11 dollar/euro) for 1L concentrate. I think it might be the cheapest liquid developer there is) </p>

<p>you gotta use clothes pegs. Two on the bottom will do. Additionally if needed you can cut them into six after drying and put the strips into a wallet thing. Put that between heavy books</p>

<p>it's a Foma film, expired 1999. ISO 100, as 800. I can see reduced contrast in some photos (the foreground just becomes one block of grey), grain, and seemingly a loss in speed... next time I will get fresh bulk! Expensive but reliable!<br> Not sure if it was on top or not. I always tap three taps every 30 sec. Actually I noticed the tank leaking at the bottom a little so I taped it :p</p>

<p>two</p><div></div>

<p>hi, I've scanned a set of negatives and am noticing dark spots on the image. On the negative, they are of course white. what would cause this?? It's quite troubling. <br> Camera, Petri 7S. Developer, Ilfosol-3. Fixer, Rapid Fixer (had it since last April, that stuff is crazy)<br> Odd thing is, I'm scanning the next set of negatives from the same camera and development (in fact they were in the tank together) and this one doesn't have the problem.</p><div></div>

<p>That one is actually at 3200! It's fine, right. I just increase the temperature to 28'C or even 30'C to cut the time. The lab will have forgotten to push your film, or your ISO wasn't set right, or your metering needs work (no insult intended; just listing possibilities). I just point the camera at the ground or zoom in on the subject</p><div></div>

<p>I've done it as 1600. Ilfosol-3, no problem.</p><div></div>

<p>I will try scanning it with my V550. Good enough :p I'm glad you had success. did you make the same mistake as I?<br> I <em>can </em>see the image, everything is there, but faint. Ah, intensifier? Is it called something like density intensifying?<br> I wonder how it can come back stronger.. would sepia toning work, if possible?</p>

Hi, I was doing a reversal and after re-development I saw that the pictures looked visible enough, so I fixed them. Bad idea - I wasn't aware that it was the film base/tint that made it visible, and that of course got fixed out. Images are there but vague, is there some way to chemically replace the silver or add to it and make it stronger? Thanks..!

Different developers have different characteristics. That one probably improves the contrast. Fix after to remove any inactive silver halides and use hypo as usual at the last step. 35mm has a clearing step to remove the bleach stain - I use sodium metabisulphite, 25g in 1L. Just don't sniff it!

If you struggle to get the acid H2SO4 then look for 'battery acid'. I don't know about 16mm but for 35mm it calls for 2% strength in solution. If battery acid was, say, 25% strength and you needed 400ml of solution, then 2% of that should be pure H2SO4. That's 8ml. With the battery acid, you need ? *0.25 = 8. In this instance it's 32ml battery acid and 368ml water

<p>Thanks for that equation. On the development chart there is a time/temperature calculator, is that how they do it?</p>

<p>Thanks! I developed a few reversals and there are some black (well, dark because of too much silver) even though I made proper exposures, so I figure it would be easier to underdevelop slightly to give myself some silver to work with (i.e. can go from quite clear to quite dark). Developing to completion isn't too reliable, ... so I will do what I just said then cold develop it for say 20-30 sec, wash it, check it, if there are a few frames not dark yet I can dip them in, the rest get fixed. Etc. </p>

<p>Hi! I will be fine-tuning my reversal process, firstly by under-developing slightly to leave more silver available for fogging (as opposed to being bleached out), and secondly by second-developing slowly or in increments, to achieve the best density. This can be done in theory with cold developer, since it would work slowly. But, will developer actually work at all below 20'C? Say, for 15'C.<br> Ta!</p>

<p>woops, I just realised that this was from 2010. I made the mistake of assuming it was recent. Shit!</p>

<p>development increase grain (remember, more speed means more grain). Films like Delta 3200 are actually high speed emulsions, so they will have less grain at 3200 than, say, a 400 speed film pushed to 3200. </p><div></div>

<p>iso200 or 400 colour film developed as 3200</p><div></div>