westphoto

<p>Validation received. Thanks, guys. Looking forward to playing around with it once I get my flash set up (came how after I bought it, turned on my Vivitar 2800, whiiiiiiiir POP! No more 2800)</p>

<p>I just picked up a used Sekonic L-308S. The Lumisphere has a small buff on the very front, maybe 1mm square. I see Sekonic saying<br> "The Lumisphere is an important light receiving unit. Please<br> handle with care and try not to mark or soil"<br> Should I worry about a little buff? It's only noticeable by eye with a reflection over it, but fairly noticeable by running my finger nail over the surface. I imagine it's nothing, and it appears to be giving me good readings (from what my novice experience can tell me), but I'm just looking for some validation that it's not a big deal.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18114285-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>This is the one shot I got from a test roll I put through the Canonet 17 (S?) I just finished repairing (the roll swapped between my AE-1 and the Canonet, causing some misshaps). Looks like a happy little critter (dog, and camera)</p>

<p>Andrea, to be sure, just slap some tape around the edges and see if that fixes things.</p>

<p>Patrick, if you're talking about shutter lag, that would be black in the positive, but white in the negative. Those shots look like they were getting hit with light coming from the edge next to the take up spool. The film is wrapped up, and then sits next to that shouldn't-be-an-opening while waiting for the next shot and burns, then gets wrapped under the next frame and is protected. The circumference of the wrapped film not being the same as the width of a shot accounts for the differing positions of the leak on the two frames. As for diffusing through and opening, sure it could diffract around the edges some, but that would result in a light feathering of the edges, not total wash over the entire film. I had a huge leak like that in an AE-1 that I stupidly tried to makeshift a seal on, and depending on how long one shot sat before I took another, and what external light conditions I was in, I had around a 50/50 distribution of perfectly fine shots and totally trashed ones. They looked exactly like that with a number of them with fairly hard edges and gradient on the other side.</p>

<p>Good grief, Jim. Wish I could find some color like that here in Huntsville, Al. It's a magical place that tends to jump straight from summer to winter :( I'm hoping to catch something in the one or two days we'll have of half-way-decent fall color, if it decides to happen.</p> <p>Are we looking for current pictures in these photo of the month threads, or just those taken with FD lenses?</p>

<p>Oh I haven't had the chance to put anything through it yet. I just assume that if there was once foam there, it's probably a good idea to get something back in. I really just wanted to make sure what I was seeing was correct, in that there is just the fom in those two side rails. I'm used to a 35mm camera back with seals all the way around, but I can see the light trapping design on the top and bottom of the holder, so it makes sense.</p>

Try again<div></div>

Here

The next step in my quest for graflex is to prep the roll film holder. The only place I'm seeing remnants of light seal foam is in the vertical channels on the hinged back. Is anyone familiar with the seals on these holders? If it matters, I have the "22" for the smaller 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 boxes

<p>FPA should be there when I get home today. Any tips for making that 0.25mm spacer? It should be coming with an old pack, but I'd rather not destroy it. If it has shots left on it, I will probably be frivilous and shoot them, because I may never get the chance again.</p>

<p>Dan, excellent.</p> <p>Charles, thanks a lot for that. I wasn't quite sure what the odd brass posts were on the bottom when I first got it, and then I finally noticed that they were the busted rivets for the lower hook XD I'll probably look into making that conversion one day.</p> <p>Is there anything that uses the hooks besides the spring back?</p>

<p>I also noticed this morning that I wouldn't be able to use the original spring back even if I got a hold of one. The hook on the bottom of the camera that the spring back's arms would grab onto has snapped off somewhere in the past. That would probably be why it doesn't have the back in the first place.<br> Dan, is that 0.25mm a measurment that you've taken yourself, or one that you've found somewhere?</p>

<p>Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, the FPA can be directly attached to the Graflok back, and doesn't require the spring back / focusing panel to hold it in place like a standard film holder, correct?</p>

Excellent. Thank you all so much for all the help.

Yeah I'm seeing plenty of Graflex ones, "model 2". Just want sure if that meant graflex back specifically. I was thinking about trying to rig up a focusing screen with one, which would require it fit into the graflok back.

Would there be any difference in greflex/graflok there?

I'm also in need of the black card that slides into the roll back. What's the correct term for that, because I'm not having any luck searching for "black sheet" or "black card".

I plan on shooting with the roll back. I just want to be able to use the GG to focus. It doesn't have the range finder or the view finder. Plus the image projected on the glass is so cool :D

<p>Dave, thanks a lot. I'll certainly check in with them.<br> Charles, that is a veritable smorgasbord of information. I will definitely keep that in case the need arises later.<br> Chuck, the Century's are all indeed Graflok, I just wasn't sure if that was a single-sized standard or if there were various sizes employing the same lock design (apparently the latter). I am in need of the 2.25x3.25 version, so do let me know if you happen to come across one. It will certainly be a while before I have the funds to get one from any source, though. My friend was remarkably generous in letting me have this gem (those red bellows!), and it will take some patience to make my way into the medium format world (shooting a Canon AE-1 generally).</p>

I was just gifted a Century Graphic, and it only has the roll back. I'm seeing lots of 4x5 graflok backs on eBay. Are they the same, or are there different ones for the small graphlexes?

<p>Well I went ahead and took that one step. The red wire connected to a piece that is spring loaded against the inside of the aperture ring. Didn't really seem to be electrical contacts on the inner surface of that ring. Do anyone have an idea as to how that works? Is it some kind of flex resistor?<br> Anyway, it's all back together now. Slick blades all round and found the adjustment to make sure the shutter locks when cranked (was pushing microns too short). Next up is to adjust and clean the rangefinder. I'm also planning on painting the inside of the top cap black as per Peter de Waal's suggestion (<a href="/classic-cameras-forum/00VL6N">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00VL6N</a>). I'm sure I'll start playing with it before I get around to buying an LR50 (appears to be the right replacement battery) for the meter, so we'll have to see later if that's working or not.</p>

<p>I'm repairing a Bell & Howell / Canon Canonet 17 (I think it's the same as a Canonet S, just sold under B&H). Started with going in to un-stick the aperture and shutter blades, and found on my way in that one of the wires had been cut in a previous repair. I've replaced that wire. I was just wondering if anyone was familiar with the circuitry in the lens. I have one wire that was previously intact that goes to the flash plug. Then I have this repaired wire that goes through a switch to the black cable on the CdS sensor. I'm assuming the red wire on the other side of the CdS is going to some variable resistor action coupled with the shutter speed. Is that right, and is there a way that I can test that the red connection is good without getting all the way to it? I was essentially one step away from that, down to just the timing segment of the lens, but I'd rather not take it 100% apart. Assuming that is what's happening with that red wire, where does the other end of this resistor setup go?</p>