westphoto

I'm inclined to agree with you. I managed to kludge together a wiring setup, so I'm capable now. Just need to get the proper solution sometime before this fails me.

Yeah, I have no intentions of firing it optically

<p>Yeah, Flash Zebra looks to have exactly what I'm looking for. I'd also seen the LumoPro Universal Hot Shoe Adapter, but I'm doing my best to find something on Amazon (gift card). I found <a href="http://www.amazon.com/iParaAiluRy-Viltrox-Adapter-Wireless-Flashgun/dp/B00PZAWROW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1452895516&sr=8-7&keywords=remote+flash+adapter">this guy</a> that I'm going to give a shot. It seems to be what I'm looking for, although the engrish is just fantastic. "Base on the photoelectric principle". I love that XD Can't tell if it's intended only as an optical slave, or if that PC can be used as the trigger. I may just play it safe and get the LumoPro or Flash Zebra solution to save some headache.</p>

So the main goal here is to get my flash (no sync ports or optical) to sync with the camera (hot shoe and PC port) off-camera. I was thinking the hot shoe and PC port of devices were just analogs of one another, but that appears to not be the case. I'll assume this adapter just isn't going to work. If anyone has any more info on how those systems play together, or if the two signal pins are just separate contacts that would connect at the same time, I'd love to hear it.

This is my first time trying out sync cables. What makes PC cables so unreliable? Is it just that they don't click on well and get loose, or is there something electrically unreliable about them? I was planning on zip tying the cable to whichever adapter I end up using, and then the PC port on the AE-1 is in a place that I can easily keep it secure by hand.

<p>I was (am) trying to get myself set up to be able to do off-camera flash. I'm using an AE-1, and a... Phoenix ZIF 92N flash (if anyone has a manual or anything for this guy, hook me up). The flash doesn't have any sort of sync port, so I grabbed what I figured would work in the Pixel TF-321 on Amazon. After failed attempts and reading a bit more closely it appears that this will only sync <strong>out</strong> the PC port, not <strong>in</strong>, so it can't be used as a remote trigger.</p> <p>Could someone please explain how a PC port/cable works? My understanding is that an external flash goes off when the side contact and the center contact on the bottom are shorted together. I was assuming that a PC port was just an extension of the camera's center hotshoe contact and the hotshoe sides, but my multimeter isn't showing continuity between the center of the hotshoe and PC port. To further confuse me, I can put the flash on the hotshoe of the camera and trigger it through the PC port using my Sekonic L-308S, further cementing the apparently incorrect notion that the centers of the hotshoe and PC port are the same thing electrically.</p> <p>Other than the general operation of a PC port, does anyone know how this Pixel guy can signal out but not in through the PC port? If there's a diode in there, I'd be happy to break in and throw that out.</p> <p>Someone please fill this apparently-not-as-clever-as-he-thought guy in.</p>

Oh, I'm not terribly worried about fixing/replacing it. Just looking to see if anyone has any clues. It seems like something minor. I had AE-1s that wouldn't shoot, total loss according to just about every account, but turned out to just be one contact slightly out of place. She'll sit patiently on the shelf for the lucky day.

<p>Ok, I just tried it out with my power supply (the batteries were reading a little low). The motor definitely sounded like it was trying harder, but still no luck.</p>

<p>I do also need to check some nice fresh batteries. The batteries that are in it seem fine, but I'm going to get some nice new ones just to make sure.</p>

<p>I have made sure to try it off of the DX setting. I'm putting it in fully manual mode. M on the front, single shot up top, 125th shutter. And it does move through the auto-advance at the beginning, and then just goes about shooting. I've put a roll in just to make sure and I'm assuming the shutter still isn't doing anything because all of the symptoms are still there and changing the shutter speed still doesn't change a thing. I was looking at a video of one that works properly, and it looks like my shutter is in a different position at rest than it should be. I'm guessing a little ways into the travel. Here, <a href=" F501 AF 35mm SLR Film Camera Overview / Review</a>. I can see the arms connecting the shutter blades on the right in it's current state. Interestingly, I can gently push down on the blades with a pocket knife and they move without a problem, but I'm guessing something's stuck keeping it from returning up to the proper rest position.</p> <p>If anyone knows anything about repairing these guys, it does seem to be giving me some manner of error report. I was thinking it was just a DX things since that's all the consumer manual mentions for the LED on the top left, but any time you touch the shutter release, it barely lights, and there's a chunky noise from inside (sounds about like an electric motor trying and hitting an obstacle), and then it flashes rapidly ten times (or so).</p> <p>I'd be happy to take a stab at opening it up and fixing it myself if anyone has access to a repair manual or just knows what to do. Seems like a pretty spiffy little camera if I could just get the shutter to move.</p>

I was just given a Nikon N2020. It's mostly happy. Film loads, focuses, and the mirror flaps. But the shutter doesn't seem to be interested in the slightest. Picking shutter speeds makes no difference. I can have it open and press the little lever so it will fire, and the shutter doesn't flinch. Only other oddity (which may just be the camera) is it hesitates for a bit and does some flashing of the led before it starts to focus, but then it just goes about as quick as it can as long as you play with the shutter release often enough. Is there anything that I'm missing, or would you guess the shutter is just dead. I can upload videos or pictures if anything else needs to be seen.

Oh man, well thank you. I'll be sure to treat it nice.

<p>Lens received. How do I need to go about refunding the shipping for you? Do you just want a check mailed to you?</p>

<p>Excellent. I'll keep an eye on it.</p>

<p>I'd be willing to take it as-is, assuming the price is right.</p>

I have my Canonet down to the shutter blades for cleaning. Unfortunately, the blades kind of fell out before I could get a good sense what was going on. I've pretty much figured it out, except for these three spacer/partial blade things. Can anyone fill me in on which of the six blades these go with?

<p>I have a friend with a Retina Reflex. Trying to find your email now.</p>

<p>Thank you for all the information. I'm hoping/expecting that it's only out just a little bit, and slow leading to slight over-exposure is fine in my eyes. Hopefully I won't be digging into it, but thank you again for all of the resources should I need to.</p>

<p>The serial number is 522038<br> There is a 4 and an L/1 on the rails.</p><div></div>

<p>Yeah I think that's it.</p> <div></div>

<p>I'm seeing Synchromatic made by Wollensak for Graflex Inc.</p>

<p>Ooo, I very well may make that audio transistor set up. I have all of that stuff already.<br> And It's the standard lens that came with the Centuries, with a Century shutter.</p>

<p>I have a 103mm Graflex Graftar f/4.5 for a Century Graphic that may or may not have good shutter timing. I've been trying to listen and see if the 1/10 shutter is half of the time of one tick from my mechanical watch (5 ticks a second, for those who don't know). It sounds like it's a tiny bit slow, but I'd love to know if any of you knowledgeable folk have any cool tricks/tips for checking shutter speeds without a slow motion camera. It has speeds from 1/10 to 1/200.<br> Secondly, I'd love to know if anyone has any literature for/experience with disassembling one of these lenses in case I do need to go in and clean up anything. I've already had the front and rear elements off easily. I see there are two screws on the front face and one in the back. I am mechanically inclined, so I'm comfortable with taking a look at the innards. I just don't want to go opening something and have a spring suddenly fly away.</p>

<p>I'm guessing it was probably just kept at room temp. Not sure if that counts as "stored properly" or not.</p>

<p>I snagged a 4-pack of Walgreen's 400 color neg for free on Craigslist. The box says develop by 2013, Jan or July, can't remember. Obviously I'm not expecting spectacular results from drugstore film, but should I make any exposure adjustments given the past expiration date, or would 2 years not make any real difference?</p>