ben_norman

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18134098-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="829" /><br> Still took me ages to work out, but thanks :)</p>

<p>Love The Somnambulist's! <br> <img src="/photo/18134098" alt="" /> <br> How do you post images on this forum..??</p>

<p>I sometimes have the same problem with my T4, but half-pressing the shutter when the power button is off makes it go back in</p>

<p>What I don't understand about 645 WLFs is the price. I'd love to get one, but how on earth can you justify £100+ for a little pop-up hood? I picked up my 645 Pro with a power-winder and metering prism for £200 (pretty good deal I think), how can a few pieces of metal that pop open and closed cost half what I paid for my camera?<br> You could always use the cheapy work-around of removing the prism and making a cardboard lightshield around the ground glass. It'll give identical functionality, cost £100 less, and almost entirely ruin the cool-factor you've built up by having such a sexy camera in one fell swoop. </p>

<p>Agreed, but when you can get half-price film it's hard to pass up sometimes. </p> <p>I'll have to find a style of picture where the numbers are less noticeable/become part of the picture itself! Which way to the Lomo forum..?</p>

<p>Just to note: centre-bottom - a clear '8'<br /> mid-left - faint '11's.</p> <p>I bought the film from eBay, 10 rolls pretty cheap. My new theory is that they're extremely out of date (pre-dating John Shriver's linked FP4 markings) and that there's been a reaction due to how out of date they are. They are minus their foil packaging so there's no expiration date visible. I can't remember what the seller said re: expiration dates, but I don't generally buy very old film after some bad experiences with expired 35mm film. A year or two is acceptable, but I've had horrible results from some 10+ year expired film, so try to avoid anything too old. Maybe I was careless, or blinded by the low price, or maybe the seller was economical with the truth.</p> <p>The Chinese Lucky film is just crap film, no date issues there and the two issues, although they look the same, shouldn't be considered together. </p> <p>Any thoughts? Is this likely?</p> <p>I have a few rolls of new Acros 100, the next time I shoot B&W I'll try that to help eliminate the possibility it's a camera/developing issue.</p>

<p>It's not light through the red window, neither the 124G nor the Mamiya 645 have red windows. <br> Admittedly I'm quite new to developing and have been using a 'one size fits all' approach to my timings when developing B&W - I'm using timings given to me by a friend who says he used them with all B&W films with no problems.<br> I'll adjust the timings next time to see how it goes, but the FP4 shots are not under developed as far as I can see. Would you not expect to see underexposed images if the timings were much too low? Unless it's not real FP4..? Someone above [John Shriver] said the markings in the 2nd pic, original post, don't look like FP4, but that's what the reels say, unless I've been the victim of some elaborate hoax, someone re-spooling crappy film with FP4 backing paper and selling them on. Seems unlikely. <br> I'm not feeding the backing roll onto the reel by the way, even I'm not that dull.<br> Bad news: developed another FP4 roll the other day (shot with the 124G) and they also have the markings from the film. If it <strong>is</strong> that the reels had got moist, the whole batch may be affected. I've put the rest in a sealed bag with a few small bags of desiccant. Not sure if it'll do any good but it's worth a try. <br> Link to a new pic. Note the clear markings centre-bottom. This doesn't correspond to any of the backing markings in John Shriver's post: <br> <img src="http://imgur.com/wGnBmzo" alt="" /><br> http://imgur.com/wGnBmzo<br> The plot thickens!</p>

<blockquote> <p>Are you storing the film in a refrigerator or freezer without the original air-tight foil pack?</p> </blockquote> <p>All my film is in the fridge in the foil packaging, except the FP4 which I bought a job-lot of, not foil packed. That could be the answer. I just hope the rest isn't similarly damaged, if so.<br> Or yes, it could have been the change from cold to warm when I came back in. I was out for a good while. To be honest I binned most of the negatives after scanning - I got a harsh lesson in reciprocity failure and only managed to pull a few usable shots from the roll - so I can't go back and check which frames were damaged. <br> Thanks though</p>

<p>The first shot was with a Yashica Mat 124G, the second with a Mamiya 645 Pro. <br> Dampness is a distinct possibility, I had the Mamiya out in the snow trying to take fairly long-exposure night shots. It was a cold, damp night. I'll take more care to keep it dry next time. <br> And yes, I believe I was using Shanghai Lukei(?) film. It's not great by any stretch of the imagination but I'll always use it to test out a new camera - at £1 a roll it doesn't matter when I mess up (which I inevitably do). With the first roll in the 124G it was having the back set for 220 film, and not advancing the film to the correct Start point either..... <br> Thanks a lot for the quick responses too.</p>

<p>I've been having some problem developing recently. I'm using Ilford DDX and Ilford fixer, processing 120 film. The film markings (numbers etc) are showing through quite clearly on my scans. <br> <img src="http://imgur.com/5wXUGCU" alt="" /><br> http://imgur.com/5wXUGCU<br> The first time it happened (above) I was using extremely cheap Chinese film, so put it down to that, but I just had the same issue to a lesser extent with Iflord FP4..! I can't blame the film this time. <br> The shot below is a junk shot using FP4, but it shows the film markings more clearly than the others I took<br> <img src="http://imgur.com/7k3o9PC" alt="" /><br> http://imgur.com/7k3o9PC<br> Not sure if these photos are showing up so I've added links too.</p> <p>Developing process - DDX 1:4 with water, temperatures 20 degrees +/- 1, 3'30" with approx 15s agitation/minute. <br> Fixer 2'30", constant agitation.</p> <p>What am I doing so wrong..?</p>