oli_sones

<p>TI'm quite keen to be able to use the Aperture ring (it's a custom menu option on the F100) and I have a feeling the latest G's don'w have a ring? Call me old fashioned but there's something nice about selecting it on the lens rather than a dial..!<br> I'd likely lean towards AF, but if a good MF lens came along I'd happily give that a go - the F100's focus indicators seems to do a good job from what I've heard. </p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I've just picked up a lovely F100 and a 50mm 1.8 AF D to go with it. I've been using primes on a Pentax LX but wanted to grab an autofocus camera (already had experience with Nikon on a D7100 with DX lenses) so the F100 fitted the bill well. <br> I've been using a 100mm on my LX, and would like a similar focal length for the F100, so wanted some advice to what might be similar on the Nikon system. I mainly shoot street and portraits, so if anyone has any ideas or experiences, I'd be very grateful!<br> Thanks in advance!<br> Oli</p> <p> </p>

William W. I currently only have a 50/1.4 for the LX and 70 FA for the 645N (I mainly use these for street photography). That said the 50/1.4 should be suitable? David Bebbington - it's a show in producing so I have no problems in using a flash as the performers will be told beforehand. Good to know about the off camera flash - I see one of Hasse Perssons photos he is seen in the mirror uses this technique.

Thanks for everyone's brilliant responses! I've been away the past few days so will digest all the information above and come back with any questions (which there will no doubt be!)

<p>Hi all,<br> I'm working on a project whereby we are creating a 70's nightclub event over the summer. I would love to shoot some of the nights using B&W film but wondered if anyone had any experience with this. As inspiration I've been looking at some of Hasse Pearson's work from Studio 54, which captured the energy and style of the club perfectly. I've got various cameras at my disposal (Canonet QL17, Pentax LX, Pentax 645N) but I'm trying decide what setup (and film) would work best for this environment. I can use a speed light if need be. <br> Has anyone shot film in a club and has any tips?<br> Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>And here is the daylight one.</p><div></div>

<p>Ah I'll try again...</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Andrew. I actually processed a roll of the expired stock this afternoon as I had run it through a Lomo LC-A. Trouble is, I can't figure out whether the shots are foggy due to underexposure on some frames or age. Here are two shots - one outdoors and one indoors. I realise the LC-A isn't the most scientific of cameras to be using as a test but would be interested to know your thoughts...</p> <p><img src="https://photography.olisones.com:2083/cpsess873385907/viewer/home%2folisones%2fpublic_html/expired1.jpg" alt="" /><br> <img src="https://photography.olisones.com:2083/cpsess873385907/viewer/home%2folisones%2fpublic_html/expired2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi all,<br /> I have a number of expired (2008) rolls of HP5+ that were given to me by a photographer friend who had stored them in his film fridge. Question is, am I likely to come across any nasty surprises with this film? I've been storing it next to my bulk roll of HP5+ so just wondering whether it's ok to take away on a trip I'm going on tomorrow (there will be X-ray machines involved at the airport (not sure how expired film fares compared to in-date stock there?)). Or canister up the in-date stock....<br> <br /> Look forward to your thoughts!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks Gus! I sacrificed a few frames of film and opened up the top - turns out the blade was bent the wrong way so was shorting the circuit. All fixed now and working! Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I thought I would revive this thread as I've got a lovely QL17 which appears to have a stuck battery check switch. I only noticed this when I found an old 625 battery which kept the light on all the time. Could be why my wein cells haven't been lasting too long! Has anyone attempted to fix the check light switch? I've got film in the camera at the moment so haven't taken the top cover off. Is it easy to reach?<br> Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks! Makes me feel a little better. I'll shoot a roll and see what comes back. </p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I received my first bulk roll today of HP5+. Thinking that the film would be in a can, I removed the box (not the bag) before placing it in my dark tent. I didn't open the black bag the film until it was in the dark tent was in but now I'm worried I've ruined the film as reading online suggests you should do the box removal in the dark as well. <br> Does anyone have any experience with this or have I now got a nice bulk-film shaped doorstop?!<br> Thanks in advance!</p> <p>Oli</p>

I did, but the Pakon seems to give great results and I managed to get one for a very good price. As such, I'm happy to get another scanner for 120.

<p>Hi all,<br /> I've been researching scanners for the past month or so and pulled the trigger on a Pakon F135 for 35mm scans as it seems to be a great option. As I shot both 135 and 120 film, I'd like to get something for the latter. I've heard flatbed scanners deal with 120 more effectively than 135 so wonder what would be the best option for me considering I've already got the F135. I've been looking at the Epson v600 upwards but I need to keep budget in mind.<br /> Anyone have any thoughts on this?<br /> Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I have a couple of rolls of C41 B&W that need developing and also a few colour rolls. Is it possible to re-use the chemicals from the B&W or best to mix a fresh batch for the colour? <br> Thanks!</p>

<p>Thank you to everyone for their thoughts! It seems a cleaner lens would be the 50mm (I had debated that lens a while ago when getting the 35!) Slightly off topic, but Edward mentioned the Nikon slide adaptor but it only seems to do 135 frames. I was hoping to try and digitise 120 as well. Has anyone had any luck with similar adaptors working for 120?<br> Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I've been looking at negative scanning options, and as I have a d7100, I figure I might try rigging a DSLR system. I currently have a 35mm prime lens but I'm trying to figure out what extension tube to use to get a clear 1:1 image for scanning the negative. I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this? Does the DX system make a difference?<br> Thanks in advance!<br> Oli</p>

<p>Thanks all.<br> The blemishes are the rest of the frames in various sizes - it's not equal by any measure. I load the tank using a dark tent so it may well be from a slight unspooling. My Yashica is back from being CLA'd today so will shoot some frames over the weekend and see what comes out. </p>

<p>Hi all,</p> <p>I've just developed my first b&w film (Delta 400) from my Yashica Mat 124g (which is currently being serviced). I have found some fairly large blemishes on the sides of the frames and wondered whether this was light leaks or an issue with the developing? I'm using an AP tank and filled it to the correct amount (550ml) as per the tank details. Here's the image and this is fairly consistent with other frames on the roll:<br> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/lud3t1cchb8nhwy/Ilford%20Delta%20400%201.jpg?dl=0">Photo 1</a><br> I look forward to your thoughts.<br> Oli</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi all,<br> First chance I've had to reply. Wow! Thanks for all the great responses!</p> <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=2290293">Jamie Robertson</a>: Thank you very much for the details breakdown of the process. I'm going to give your method a go with another roll and see what happens. <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=3940672">Donald Miller</a>: that's very interesting re: your light leaks. I was pretty sure I had managed to keep the roll in the dark but I guess this could be the issue. I used a basic scanner just to see a rough idea of the negative - i'm hoping to get something decent once i get my head around processing. <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1541404">Cory Ammerman</a> and <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=423911">James Dainis</a>: Here's a link to the negatives (pre-inversion) which I'm not sure would hope much, but might give some insight? <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/18lamxpg4tib928/Scan%201.jpg?dl=0">Neg 1</a> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2lj90rsm0ydeyj/Scan%202.jpg?dl=0">Neg 2</a> It's interesting the the Digibase manual (<a href="http://www.macodirect.de/download/C41_InstructionManual.pdf">here</a>) that people point to for the kit gives a 25c temp for the processing with longer times - for what everyone has said, this seems woefully too low a temperature for anything to successfully work. I wonder why they put it? Look forward to your continued thoughts. I'm going to keep at it and will now look at B&W also. Thanks, Oli

<p>I've never been one to not enjoy a challenge! I realise it's somewhat more complicated than B&W but I want to see it through! I'm also going to be working through some B&W as well (with separate equipment). Intrigued if I've not given something the proper time on this initial process...</p>

<p>Thanks. The Digibase kit allows to process at 25 degrees so I thought I would be ok. I taped up the Holga so I am not sure it's that. How much should I do of the Bleach and Fix?</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I processed some 120 film for the first time today using a Digitise C41 kit. I've roughly scanned the processed negatives and put them into Photoshop to see how they look. Having inverted the frame they images seem very 'cloudy'. I realise this is a very rough scan and I haven't played around with the curves, but I'm thinking something isn't quite right with the process. I processed at 25c as per the instructions.<br> The film was shot in a Holga (which I admit isn't a great benchmark in terms of 'clear image'). Does anyone with more experience have any thoughts?<br> Many thanks in advance!<br> Here are some examples: <br> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/iqub6k0bnfh6fh3/Scan1.jpg?dl=0">Example 1</a><br> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2lj90rsm0ydeyj/Scan%202.jpg?dl=0">Example 2</a></p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks for your replies. Seems like there are two schools of thought! Any one have any good alternatives? </p>