frank_wilson4

The Energizer 357 battery is made with the silver oxide proprieties

For using a 625 battery in the original Canonet I used a sawed off piece of a dowel and wrapped foil around it to take up the excess space needed to make the 625 fit good

I ended up purchasing a SPX27 battery at B&H Photo for under $12, shipping included for my Rollei 35 LED. I am contemplating to add the Schottky diode to that camera now

I had tried that a few times and the answer is no.. Not enough room. I install mine just above the meter which takes some practice. Best to try it on a Canonet 28 first

I added a Schottky diode to my G-III which is the part number 1n1157 and the diode ives me great results I keep these on hand for all 1.3 volt cameras in case I need them

I got lucky since I had a spare shutter for the needed part. Yes, tearing one down is a chore to any novice. I dig into this type of shutter once in a while to keep my sanity

My first one had an egged-out shutter pawl that had to be replaced. Now it is working once again. My other one will be stripped for parts since that one has many internal problems

Well here we are 13 years later and now I am tearing down my defective shutters. After completion I will post my findings on the problem(s)

A full CLA fixed mine done by a pro

Your Canonet is A OK I had rebuilt hundreds of these and that is their design

I do love these black Canonet cameras. Recently I bought a box load of Konica Auto S2 cameras and disassembled all of them. I can see by the measurements of the shutters they are the same as the Canonet QL17 cameras made around 1964 and 65. I swapped the lenses from my Canonet and used a set from one of the Konica cameras. Talk about a big difference!! So now I am looking for more Canonet QL17's to modify with the Konica optics

I noticed on my jamb Nikon FM after fiddling around with it if I push the shutter blades up carefully with my finger on one side and my thumb on the other side using light pressure the mirror will come down. Then I can advance the film lever fully and snap the shutter. After that the same thing happens! Ugh! So I will take mine apart in the future to see what is going on inside. Most likely something is binding the full release going back into the park position. It can be about anything I know since this camera body still looks like new showing very little use although old. Seals that rot are the main culprit in older cameras and they are installed inside in many cameras especially SLR's. I will report back upon finding out what my problems is with this one here

I had read the Retina and Voigtlander lenses have near the same mount A little filing is needed to make it fit Which one I do not remember

XK Minolta's are readily found on Ebay by sellers that do not know much or investigate how they operate. I have purchased three of these in the past 5 years and all had worked fine upon installing fresh batteries. Fresh batteries are needed to trigger the shutter to reset the camera to operate again. Most past owners left the batteries in the old camera causing the shutter mechanics to lock up. I was surprised at first so I purchased my second and third one getting the same results when new batteries were installed. Made some money on the three of these since I really did not care to keep them since I am a rangefinder guy

Look into this link for the information you need..Canon Date Codes

Inside the film compartment were the film canister is inserted a Letter with a few numbers follow it is the code of the year built. The letter O would be a 1974 model.. Here is the link to find your information needed Canon Date Codes

I had purchased a box load of cameras in the 70's at a thrift store. Five of them where the G-III's by Canon. I was surprised all had clear optics although these where from New Mexico. I told myself after purchasing the correct tools I would fix one to use. After a year or so three were working fully so I stayed with these cameras till this day. Since 2010 I had repaired hundreds of these Canonet's and a few Konica S3's as well. Canonet's are far tetious to work on than the Konica here. One thing to mention always send your Leica out for repairs since they are too hard for any novice when it comes to the curtains. Leaf shutters are not so hard for most of us. SLR cameras you can stay away from as well unless a very expensive one at a good price just to collect

If the above photo shows yours does move freely go to this link for further instructions on thr repair

[ATTACH=full]1264649[/ATTACH] Look at my photo in my library to view my Yashica 124G's internal parts behind the lens plate. A screwdriver points to the crank release that gets stuck. It has a very small coil spring attached to it. Oil will free it up in most cases by using one tiny drop between the sliding bar and the housing it attaches to