frank_wilson4

<p>Canonet G-III's and Konica Auto S2 the S16 and S3 I have owned and rebuilt them for decades<br> The Konica's do have the best optics by far. All cameras are worth having although I use the Konica whenever I can since they give the best results</p>

<p>Gary Camera in Merrillville Indiana 46410, still develops 120 film inhouse</p>

<p>Hey everyone,<br /> After reading this I figured I'd better upload some photos of my Canon F-1.<br /> You will notice the two markings on the camera and one on the lenses rear mounting ring<br> I POSTED THE REAR LOGO AND LENS LOGO MARKINGS FOR YOU ALL<br> <br /> Frank<em><strong> <br /></strong></em></p><div></div>

<p>I have a Konica s2 Auto and no matter what I do the meter stays on showing readings with the lens cap on, I even sat the lens face down on the table and it still will not go off</p>

<p>Also check under the terminal that has the battery check (Blue Wire) Hidden corrosion is most likely present. If not cleaned it most likely will not work the meter</p>

<p>Rajmohan, You need to remove the top plate off and the C clip that holds the counter dial on to gain access of the gearing. If the gear(s) look stripped a donor camera will be needed if your meter and shutter are good. It is one of the easiest cameras to work on for it is very large. If the meter is not operating I would use 24 to 28 awg braided wire. The old negative wiring will most likely be junk from past use of mercury filled batteries. Also remove the battery holder and the remove the two bottom screws which holds the battery holder together. The contact closest to the red battery check button will be corroded most likely. Vinegar or Ronsonol will clean the powdery substance off. After cleaning you must try and see if solder will adhere to the surface. Sometimes the mercury residue will ruin the proprieties in the metal and solder will not flow on and set. I have used wires from old computer keyboards that plugged in PC's before which is the correct gauge wire.<br> If photos are needed please ask</p><div></div>

<p>The "battery box" does come apart in two pieces. The (blue wire) terminal inside adjacent to the battery check button gets corroded up all the time when the mercury battery was used. If the screws are tight and will not loosen for you apply the tip of your soldering gun to the screw's head for 30 seconds. That will loosen the tightness for you. Clean that first then try it out. I use lighter fluid and or you can also use nail polish remover since it should have acetone in the mix. It will not hurt to reheat all solder terminals since it is apart. That way all connections are fairly clean once more. It should do the trick if you have continuity through all your wiring</p>

<p>I have three of these Konica S2 Auto's and every single one I re-soldered the wires and then all 3 meters where operating again....Just plain lucky</p>

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<p>Boy it only took 6 months to get to this problem and I though since being retired I would get to it much sooner !!<br> It tell yous that more things are important in life than the small things that annoy you</p>

<p>I ended up getting the correct size bearing for the lever was uneven when using the Canonet bearing<br> Now it looks better and is working</p>

<p>Gordon<br> I have found out the problem with the on/off switch<br> It seems at one point the lever to turn it on and off was loose and the previous owner just tighten it up<br> I opened the camera up by taking the top pate off then removing the on/off lever<br> There is a well for a ball bearing to sit in there for a locking detent which was missing<br> The back side of the lever is recessed for the ball bearing in the protruding arm of this lever<br> I used a ball bearing from a Canon G-III used for the speed selector detent which works out great<br> Now I know why the darn lever never stayed in the on mode<br> Thanks again<br> Frank</p>

<p>In response to everyones problem with the aperture blades for the Konica S2, I have owned four of these so far that where looking like new still. All had frozen apertures and shutters as well. All I did was remove the rear lens barrel retaining ring to have the lens barrel away from the cameras body. Removing the two wires up front behind the electronic eye is optional to some. I vote to leave in attached for less work. If leaving the wires on you must take care to not to twist the lens barrel around or pulling on the lens barrel. You may break these wires off internally. After I carefully examine the back side of the lens barrel I look to see if the aperture preload spring is still attached. If so I remove the rear lens assembly. I use a self made spanner wrench I have made from a stiff bladed putty knife that was fitted for the rear lens of the Canonet G-III. It works perfect on this S2 Konica. Upon removal I use Ronsonol lighter fluid sparingly on the hinge points of all 5 aperture blades. I also add a drop by the preload spring. I did this once a day for 5 days working the blades by hand. The 6th day all was working by its own lie new again. All had sticky shutters too mind you and the solvent used on all apertures had to loosen the shutters blades as well for all shutters were working again. Luck may have been on my side possibly.<br> Good luck to all</p>

<p>Yes they are!!</p>

<p>The Big III-C has a plastic meter housing which is also an integral part of the front frame and lens. Also the meter attaches to the top plate by simply sliding it on<br> The small c is all metal and bolts to the camera's body</p>

<p>It may become a can or worms if opened<br> I am going to list both Retina's (IIIc & IIIC) on Ebay instead<br> Don't get me wrong they are pretty cameras although hard to work on in my view</p>

<p>Well I opened both cameras and both meter housing are totally different I read on by exploring through the internet and found if the meter is removed from the housing you may find corrosion on the back side of the shaft for the meters needle. Clean it off and it should work again. I will try that and report back later</p>

<p>I though so by eye balling what I have here<br> I just wanted to be sure before playing doctor<br> Thank you Rod!!</p>

<p>Thank you for your response<br> I should of mentioned this is a rangefinder and not a SLR series Retina</p>

<p>The floating focusing knob has a loose nut behind the center cap of the knob.<br> Most covers snap right off although unsure about some models such as yours</p>

<p>Hello everyone</p> <p> Does anyone know if the light meter from a small IIIc will fit a Large Big IIIC?<br> I have a small c with a good meter and a big C with a dead meter<br> Thank you in advance</p><div></div>

I purchased a very nice BIG IIIC with a gummed up shutter and delay timer. I removed all optics and drenched the shutter for a day with Ronsonol lighter fluid. It works like a champ now and so does the self timer. I was wondering if the Selenium meter in the Big III-C is the same meter in a small IIIc ?