rajmohan.

<p>Bruce, what a provocative question!<br> Having used a few digicameras with a gazillion controls and menu options, I've regressed (or perhaps progressed!) to old film cameras that are purely mechanical eg M3, Rolleiflex etc. In many ways, I find them more fulfilling, because they simplify things to 2 basic controls (aperture/shutter speed). They challenge my photographic vision and skill, and when I manage to make a decent image, it is extremely satisfying.</p>

<p>Hi Tori,<br> I second Stephen's comment. The X-700 and the Minolta lenses are wonderful photographic (and learning) tools.<br> If you still want to change, I suppose you'll need to think about what it is that you want in a different camera that is lacking in the X700. The choices are so vast (even within your budget). Factors that might come into play include size, weight, technology/era (purely mechanical/manual vs all auto and everything in between), format (SLR vs rangefinder vs compact etc), negative size (if you want to go down the TLR route, it is possible to do so in the realm of your budget) etc etc.<br> What lenses are you using at the moment? Perhaps adding a Rokkor lens of a different focal length while continuing to work with the X700 body might be a simpler option (and perhaps even one that challenges you) as you evolve as a photographer. I think it is a lot easier to know what you want after a decent bit of experience.</p>

<p>And the last one is 'Wood symphony with a dash of metal', in keeping with the musical theme!<br> This was made with a Bronica RF645 with 65mm lens, and Tri-X 320 film that expired in 1981.<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1714/25837769430_49e3a9607f_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>My second one is also from the M3 and Elmarit 90. A window detail that reminded me of a musical score.<br> (I forgot to say that the this and the earlier image are shot on Tri-X)<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1717/25528060633_ba2e6e7d1c_b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="529" /></p>

<p>Nice spots of nostalgia, Mike! I love the color palette of each of these old films.<br> I have 3 images from late last year. The first is shot on my first Leica M (an M3, which I was very lucky to get for a cheap price) paired with a friend's Elmarit 90mm. The subject is the sign above a locksmith's shop - a clever idea, especially if (like me) one accumulates hundreds of keys but forgets what they are for!<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1663/25487682173_d45ed6c53a_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Rick - thank you for the informative post and great images. I also like my Contaflex system - a bit quirky, but that is precisely the appeal for me! A couple of examples from my Super and the 115mm f4 lens with Tri-X:</p> <p>1. In the park<br> <img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/773/23840736791_c7af6d5bec_b.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>2. Friends<br> <img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/23736340912_35a529aea6_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thank you, <strong>Norman</strong> - yes, the RF645 is a lovely camera. I really enjoy using it (mainly on the street) :)</p>

<p>Here's one from me - <strong>a street corner</strong> (Bronica RF645, 65mm f4, Kodak Tri-X 320, expired 1981)<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1609/24265077762_58b7da695d_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Lovely, Tony! The IR really adds an otherworldly feel to these images. </p>

<p>Thanks, Tony! Yes - I was very happy with the Yashica's performance. As for the footprints - in no. 3, I decided to include the trail blazed by my photographic companions as they trudged up the ridge. If you can't beat 'em, use their tracks, I say!! :)</p>

<p>3. Into the sun<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1508/24063686261_59bc4427ba_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>2. Undulations<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1561/23580922494_d4480e037d_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi folks, great images as always!<br> Mine are from Death Valley, shot on a Yashica-Mat with a Yashinon 75mm f3.5 lens and Kodak TMax 100.<br> 1. The Dunes<br> <img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1481/23510145084_9566f13b32_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Great discussion! I'm reminded of the quote by a Rolls Royce salesman when asked about the horsepower generated by the engine of one of his models: "Power is sufficient."<br> Sharpness relies on a few variables such as resolution, contrast (micro and macro) and tonal gradations, all of which are affected by the lens and the sensor/film. If I were to do objective tests controlling for all but one of these variables (eg the camera), I might find that the scene shot with a 50MP sensor is sharper than than recorded on 35mm film. The same will likely hold true for different lenses etc.<br> The question I ask myself is: "does the degree of sharpness matter?". If it does (eg architectural photos for a set of poster prints that requires maximal sharpness versus a street scene to be viewed on a screen, which can be less sharp but should be sufficiently so to convey the photographer's intent), I'd choose the tools that will deliver the level of sharpness I think it requires.<br> So if I think of sharpness when considering a photograph, my question is simply: "is sharpness sufficient?"</p>

<p>Thank you very much for taking the time to do the review, <strong>Jim</strong>. <br> I only have 2 Leicas, a IIIf and a just-acquired M3. I greatly enjoy shooting with them, and so far, I've resisted the temptation to add a digital Leica to my bag, as I found something a little lacking in the shooting experience, compared to the film bodies. I'll have to try the M262 to see if it can alter my impression! :) </p>

<p><strong>James</strong> - no, the hood I'm expecting is the one that has 2 metal clips on the sides that you press in before slipping the hood on to the lens. It also clips on in the reverse orientation for storage (presumably the cap fits over the reversed hood. I don't know the precise details, as the lens is still in transit.</p>

<p><strong>Gus, Arthur, Jochen </strong>and<strong> James</strong> - thank you for you helpful advice. I'll take the plunge on the (non-thin) B+W filter. I'll have a hood with a cap on the hood, so the cap likely won't be a problem.</p>

<p>Hello folks,<br> My DR Summicron is winging its way to me, and to prevent adding to the minor cleaning marks that it already has on its front element, I'd like to purchase a protective UV filter for it.<br> Is there any advantage to my buying a 39mm Leica filter (13132) as opposed to a multicoated B+W 39mm UV filter, which costs about half to a third of the Leica? Is the only issue cosmetic, in that the black B+W would look a little odd on the end of the chromed brass of the lens?<br> Many thanks,<br> Raj </p>

<p>Thank you, Kevin. Not wanting to bite off way more than I can chew, I sent the camera out for servicing, and hope to have it back in the next few weeks. Fingers crossed!!</p>

<p>4. Wobble (Leica M3 / DR Summicron / Agfa Vista 200)<br> <img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5814/24063389175_e38bd9816e_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>3. Contemplation (Leica M3 / Summitar / Agfa Vista 200)<br> <img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/757/23797730182_422d5052c1_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>2. Friends (Zeiss Ikon Contaflex / 115mm Pro Tessar / Tri X)<br> <img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/23736340912_35a529aea6_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>A flurry from me to finish off:<br> 1. Christmas decoration (Rolleiflex 2.8E / TriX)<br> <img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5669/23575359529_0e700a7963_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thank you, Mike for marshalling this thread, and everyone for contributing. It has been great to see your photographs and to 'meet' many of you. Happy New Year to all! <br> Raj:)</p>

<p>Happy holidays (or a less secular 'Merry Christmas') to everyone! Thank you for allowing me to be a part of this wonderfully knowledgeable, collaborative and supportive group - I have learned a great deal from the discussions and images that have been presented in this forum. <br> Looking forward to more of the same in 2016!<br> Raj :)</p>