danny_rowton

<p>Hi Ron. Thank you for the reply. I know I am up against it with the 2236 film as it is so very old, even half a dozen decent shots and maybe one jackpot would be awesome. <br>

I've got reasonable hopes for the 1998 films. IR has many variables. I like a challenge! The angle of the sun I have found makes a huge difference. I had a roll of B&W Efke 820 which I will be buying more of as is it a true IR film unlike Ilford SFX. The contrast is wonderful. </p>

Sorry. Didnt mean to sound rude. I dont think I was. I just need advice on exposure times. Any contibutions on this would

be greatly appreciated.

<p>How I get the E4 films processed is all in hand. Ive researched it so Im not concerned about that.<br>

<br /> My question related to exposure times and peoples experiences of it with expired film, be it E4 or E6.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I have one roll of expired (obviously) Kodak Infrared Ektachrome EIR dated 1998 (which requires E6 processing).<br>

I also have some 1998 expired Ektachrome (which actually requires E4) and one roll of really old Kodak IR '2236' which expired in 1983 (also needing E4).<br>

<br /> I know there are lots of exposure considerations with IR film of any kind but am I right to use the sunny 16 rule plus factor in the filters and age of the film? It is generally regarded that the photographer should factor in an extra stop per decade for expired film.<br>

<br /> What I have calculated, (using f11) as just an approximate place to start, is the following:<br>

f11 - 1/250 second<br /> Filter factor - 3 stop loss for polarizer and orange filter - now up to 1/60 second<br /> 1998 Film age - 1 or 2 stop loss - now up to around 1/30 to 1/15 second<br>

<br /> Can anybody advise as 1/15 second just seems a heck of a lot of time especially when I see examples in old books where a red filter was used (albeit on fresh film) and the exposure for the film I have is 1/125? This is a big discrepancy.<br>

<br /> Any help would be so valuable to me as these films are rare and the E4 ones will have to go to a specialist lab in the USA and it really is not cheap when I live in England.<br>

Thanks, Danny</p>

<p>OK thanks chaps. <br>

This forum is so useful to me as I'm 'serious amateur' and use film only at the moment but never used IR before. There is a lot of contradiction on previous threads other people have started which really started to drive me a bit crazy because I want to dive in to infrared.<br>

I know I will make mistakes, but I am prepared for that. I just didnt want to plump for any old way of shooting it. <br>

Basically, it seems its not necessarily as confusing as its been made out. Meter without the filter using sunny 16, and as Lex said use conversion factors (which one would use for any other type of film). <br>

I still find a great variance in exposure times from anecdotal contributions online though! Obviously this being the case with no mention of ND filters of course. <br>

I will just use sunny 16 and go from there haha. After all that, I go back to the most basic form of metering there is. <br>

I dont know if Im missing something here but in respect of the camera film speed dial setting, is there a particular reason you might use a low ISO rather than box speeding on this type of film? Its just that of course, you can do either and make the respective amendments to the exposure time, but I just wondered why on IR you'd consider not box speeding?<br>

Thanks, Danny</p>

Hi

Ive been reading so much on IR film and the more I read the more confused I get.

Firstly, my set up for what will be my first attempt is going to be Nikon F2, Efke 820IR & Cokin 007 (89b)

I have read I need to box speed (100) but also that I need to set my ISO at 1 (my lowest setting is 6).

I have read that shutter speeds are usually about 1/125 for a standard sunny day (I want to start with sunny weather as it brings the best

results. That much I do know!) Yet if im on a camera ISO of 6, BEFORE I get my filter on, Im looking at about 1/2 second in bright

sumlight with a not particularly small aperture of f8.

I appreciate time and experimentation is required but can somebody advise on the above as a good starting place?

Many thanks for your time - Danny