musubi1000

"With a few specialist exceptions, coloured filters are used only with monochrome film - if you want the same effects in a monchrome output image in a digital workflow, you can obtain them during post-processing. Colour temperature adjustments are also handled at that stage - you will of course be shooting RAW!"

 

1 Colored filters can be used anytime the photographers want to.

2 Color temperture adjustments are handled by the first shot at the latest.

Ester, your strategy is sound but is it really necessary to have more than 8 megapixels. 8 is not a joke. Most people in this world haven't seen a good photograph so if they saw a good 8 MP photo it would probably stop them in their tracks. 8 MP has more visible resoultion than our old 35mm cameras had (which had a respectable amount). If you sell your perfectly good familiar tool, to buy the so-called bigger better bad-assed camera will you see the difference? Will it be everything you think?

 

If you know you're pushing the utmost limits of your camera/lens combo then go get yourself a 5D (keep the 30D/lens as a back-up). A good carpenter has many tools for different kinds of jobs and so do photographers.

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I miss my big ol Mitsubishi CRT. Prints came off it with total predictability.

Absolutely Wayne, Photoshop isn't all that hard on the video card/ motherboard. If you do upgrade the card you can always recalibrate.

It may also help you see light in more directional ways.

Here's a challenge, try doing this at night as this will reward good technique.

Since this is happening with two cards of the same type bad cards as others have mentioned or try checking that you haven't bent some of the pins in the card slot. I've seen this cause all kinds of problems.

If you're going to be shooting a wedding you need to have flexibility in your composing. I would suggest a Tamron 17-50 2.8 (under $500 US). It is an excellent performer. Combined with an SB-600 (under $200 US) and you have most of the package. Primes are good but you will be limited in terms of compositional flexibility, plus you never have enough room to photograph people at the tables as you will most likely be in cramped dining areas.

can anyone remember how to set the playback duration? Someone asked me the other day and stumpped me.

I too would also mention the lighter weight. An important consideration if you go hiking and such. IS is one of the greatest technologies created for photography in the last 50 years. I am utterly surprised at how often I see camera movement based blur from people with telephotos, even in bright light situations. IS could have made the images better. I too get a few blurries when I get sloppy with a non-IS lens. IS can make a huge difference in making an award winner especially since your type of work doesn't require a faster shutter.

2006 was a great year for me. I am now working for a nationally recognized wedding photographer and I have to say you can always learn something new. I've shot weddings on my own for near 17 years and I've learned an quite a bit recently. If you are coming into this business I suggest you work as an assistant.

I've also learned that you always check your pockets for your memory cards. If you use a memory card wallet you have to check it every 30 min. don't put anything else in your pocket except your memory card wallet. I happened to lose my memory card wallet with about 10 gigs of memory during a wedding. I was the second shooter so we didn't lose anything vital but it totally sucks knowing that some of the great shots I made(saw them on the back of camera) are gone and I won't get to show the bride and groom the one I made up til the ceremony.

This is nothing new as the D50 was the first nikon I noticed that did the very exact same thing. Nikon has probably assumed (correctly) that the majority of users are only interested in the main subject being exposed so they can see it nice and bright.

Michael, now do that for 1200 more photos by next week. Oh yeah and they have to be perfect.

how was this metered exactly.

I third the 12-24! it is simply a must have item in your bag. You will have the entire gamut of focal lengths needed to cover a job like that.

Has anyone even tested their camera lens combo set on M , shot w/the same exposure and judged the results. I've seen +- almost a full stop with the same exact exposure with a particular lens I was testing. Although I do believe the time lapse between exposures mentioned above was the culprit.

Will it being LABELED a professional camera make a difference? I would consider it to be one but it really makes no difference as anyone posting here will probably tell ya the same thing. Looking like a professional w professional equipment is different than being someone who can make professional grade images. Even with the best of equipment its no garantee that the operator can even squeeze out a portion of the quality the camera/lens is capable of even with a PROFESSIONAL label on it. I would rather pay the person w a consumer grade body like a rebel who has a good eye than spend money on someone who thinks that if they have a professional camera that makes them a professional.

So lets add more like maybe another 55 auto focus points to make it a perfect 100 that way we can cover the whole viewfinder. With more focusing points all the way out to the edge you can compose all of your family and friends right on the edges. This way we can show half of everybody, good for your overweight friends.

 

There are more important issues about the focusing systems in a professional camera like the 1Ds than being able to auto focus on the edge of frame. Every professional I know using a DSLR can still make professional shots without having the ability to focus on the edge of frame sans manually. This is a feature found on Point and shoot style cameras like the canon G-series. to make a wider covering sensor area you'd have to build an even bigger focusing array in the camera (i'm sure its very expensive or else canon wouldn't have used the 20d focusing system in the 5D)

 

Canon has enough problems with their auto focus as it is. The entire 1D series has an entirely unpredictable auto focus system. The camera has 45 points of focus to choose from and it always seems to pick the wrong ones when I really need it most. If the subject is completely in the 45 point oval the camera focuses fine, however if there is background or fore ground in the oval better cross your fingers. The servo focus can work really good, however once again if background or foreground carry into the picture the camera has no clue where to focus. I get a lot of pinsharp backgrounds with nice blurry subjects. When I use my Mk II w/ auto focus I'll usually just single out a single sensor to remove the unpredictable nature.

The Mk IIs or any 1D for that matter take forever and a day to auto focus in low light. Even with a canon flash w/ the auto focus assist it still takes about 2 secs for the camera to auto focus. If you were trying to take quick candids you wouldn't get many.

 

I feel these are much more pressing matters for Canon to address than putting focusing sensors on the periferals. A camera at any price shouldn't be labeled as a professional camera if it can't deliver consistent results quickly.

I hear ya james for the exact same reason I'm not going to buy a Mc Laren race car. For that much money it should have a cup holder. I won't buy a car unless it has a cup holder. If I were a Professional race car driver a cup holder would be the farthest thing from my mind. it is a convienence afforded to the regular driver not to a professional.

To go any wider than what you already have you have to spend at least $450. Canon 10-22 and Tokina 12-24 are both really good lenses. The Tamron 11-18 is nice too.

 

If you have none of the camera techie super-nerdee knowledge of what settings to use, then use the Portrait Sceene mode (the profile of the woman icon)on the exposure mode dial(on top of the camera). The camera will then automatically set itself to draw more attention to the subject in the final image.

 

If you do know what the cameras doing to get this kind of image and you need more control of the camera settings (for reasons none other than you own) then you are probably using Program Exposure (P), Apreture Priority (A), or maybe even Manual (M for hardcore purists!).

 

The set up you have is already enough camera to make images. Rather than worry about what you don't have, focus more on creating with what you do already have. Your 18-55 is just barely wide enough to have some fun with. Good image don't come from equipment they come from photographers.

to put it simply it is one of the fastest point and shoots I have ever used(and I've used a lot) It is such a complete camera that I don't find much use to carry my SLRs with me anymore. I always carry a camera and it used to be a D/SLR but I can do so much w/ my little LX-1 I don't need to carry all that extra weight. Image quality is better than some DSLRs (resolution-lens).

 

On the early P&S it would take forever to just change the shutter then you had to figure out how to change it over to the aperture. Which would explain why I never carried P&S digis. They were just to damn slow to use creatively.

The joystick is easy fun and most of all fast. It makes manual control on a point and shoot a reality. Not just exposure but focus as well. This is one of the first manually focusable cameras I've found to be actually usable (Canons newer P&S cameras also do a very good job of this). The Panasonic high res LCDs make this even more possible.

I'm hoping on the LX-2 they make more use of the joystick for other features. The LX-1 makes little use of it except for as stated above, to scroll through pictures, and to bring up a hot menu of important controls (WB,ISO,RES,ect...) If the LX-2 were to keep the soul of the LX-1 intact than I will buy the LX-2 for certain.

Look at the Panasonic counter part to the Leica. It is basically the same camera minus the little red badge and with the added benefit of a little nub to grip the camera. There are some minor differences like cosmetics and software bundle but it the core camera is almost a duplicate. Images with the Leica show a slight color tweak other than that same image quality.