www.wesleyalmond.com

<p>Ohh I see, I will upgrade I am using the older 2x version.</p>

<p>also.. My PC does not recognize my camera via usb. where is the driver? I saw nothing on the company website.</p>

Thanks but I'm trying to get Lightroom to recognize my raw files from the Lx3. Where is the proper file to download?

<p>Hello all,</p>

<p>I purchased a used Lumix lx3 camera.<br>

It came without the software. Where can I download the camera driver for my PC and the file that will help lightroom recognize the raw files?</p>

<p>Im somewhat new to this digital workflow.</p>

<p>The panasonic website was confusing and offered no downloads from what I could see.</p>

<p> </p>

Umm nevermind I got it. Much easier than I recall.

At one time I had a great link for compur shutter repair.

 

I need to fix a loose/snagged iris blade.

I have done this in the past but I need pictures to help me through it.

 

The less parts I need to remove the better.

 

 

 

 

So if you have any info,pics or links send them to me please.

 

-Wes

Never mind folks I figured it out, I can see that classic camera repair is dead on photo.net.

Has anyone here ever taken the top off a Super Ikonta C? The model number is

531/2, and it's 6x9. Mine is aligned properly and everything, just dirty. So I

want to clean the interior window surfaces. I already know not to clean the

mirror - I'll wipe off the reflective coating and bye-bye rangefinder image.

 

I'd just like a bit of direction on how to take the top off. Is it simple to do?

I don't want to do it if things are going to go flying, or if I'm gonna knock

the rangefinder out of alignment or anything.

 

 

 

Thanks.

This helps alot, The AF confirm adapter looks like a great investment if I go with canon. I would like to hear more info on this adapter, any limitations with f/stops? Will it confirm focus with faster lenses like 1.4?

 

Another question..

Is the viewfinder for the XTI model the same as the XT?

If so I'll check out the xti and that will answer a few questions for me.

I'm looking to buy a low end digital body to adapt my collection of nikkor lenses.

I'm not wanting to spend more than $400 on a used body and I want 8mp or above.

The price of nikon dslr seems unreasonable.

 

The olympus evolts and canon xt cameras seem to be my only options.

 

What I need to know is which of these cameras has the best viewfinder for manual

focusing. evolt 330 or the xt?

 

I love the build quality of the evolts but I'm afraid the viewfinder will be hell.

 

This is the one thing I can't view online.

And if there were older evolts in my local store then I wouldn't have to post this.

 

I know that there are focusing screen replacements but this modification will

drive up my cost another $100 bucks so I would rather avoid that.

 

So if anyone has actually compared the viewfinders in these two models please

send some opinions.

 

Thanks

Losing the wide angle happens no matter what dslr I purchase but truth is I haven't shot with a wide lens in 2 years. The fisheye would work just like a 28mm (ish) Most of the crazy distortion would be cropped out and in the end look like a normal 28mm.

 

Using my 50mm 1.4, is what I'm after since I only shoot people,

this will become a fast 85mm(ish), plus I own a 105mm, 28mm and a 16mm

 

I'm about to sell off half of my used photo gear and use it too buy a basic dslr, I found a few e-300 bodies for under $300 and canon xt bodies for $300-$400.

 

I'll shoot film in my rolle but I think I'm done with 35mm,

 

crazy huh?

Hey pat, this site helped me a ton.

and Finder better screens is an option

 

http://www.rokkorfiles.com/olympus2.htm

I've been shooting with nikon cameras for a loong time, F3HP etc I love my

collection of vintage glass, I'm not accustom to af or anything else auto but....

 

I'm finding really cheap prices on used evolt models like the 300s and 330s.

 

Has anyone used the adapters to fit nikkor lense on theses babies?

I know that I'll have to alot of manual adjustments with this adapter but like I

said I'm accustom to doing things the slow way.

 

 

My main concern is the ease of focusing with the smaller viewfinder?

Is there a rangefinder assist? (green light flashes when center in focus?)

 

anyone here tried this?

I'll try my best to explain what I'm trying to accomplish from my flash.

 

For years with older non ttl cameras I would shoot some night scenes by flashing

the model, and using a slow shutter speed up to 3 seconds. This creates a

frozen subject yet the background can have a motion blur effect.

 

Overall I would "try" to properly expose the subject yet underexpose the

background a stop or two.

 

This is a common technique but I have no idea what to call it? And I need you

guys to understand before I ask for tips.

 

<br><p>

 

Not a museum photo here but I think it explains the effect alittle, honestly

it's the only one I could find. The exposure was alittle too long here which is

why the background is so bright,

 

<br>

 

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img

src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/myequation/Image64.jpg" border="0"

alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

 

 

Now I own a Nikon fg with a sb-15 flash, this has ttl flash and other automated

features I have not used before.

 

I want to know the easiest way to set this camera for:

1, Let the flash properly expose the closet object (person)

2, allow for a slow shutter speed yet underexpose the background alitle.

 

Could this be automated?

my head hurts now

No he's NOT using a duplicating rig. IF he was using this I wouldn't be giving him a hard time by doubting his intelligence.

 

From what I understand he was using a tripod and basically pointing it at the slide on the light box, which in my opinion the sensor and slide film would never be parallel with this method. Thus causing under par images, also vibration from the shutter firing would cause issues

Today I received a very interested phone call from a customer.

 

He was trying to duplicate his 35mm slide collection via a Canon The Mach III (I

think?) and a macro lens,

 

 

He told me over the phone that he placed the slides on a light box (true light

source unknown?) and with a tripod he hovered the camera over the slide and

photographed them.

 

 

I told him this was the worst idea I had heard of. And that a simple negative

scanner (flatbed or drum) would improve his image quality and speed.

 

 

He chuckled and said he owned a Nikon coolscan (rich guy) and didn't like the

results calling it obsolete and that his camera had a better d max..

 

 

Now before I go thinking he's completely wrong and has more money than

intelligences,,, please I want to hear everyones opinion on this matter.

 

 

..-Wes

is it one of these?<br><P>

<img src="http://people.smu.edu/terryj/Old%20Pages/sm_g3.jpg"><br><P>

 

Not a bad camera but I wouldn't pay $100 unless it came with a full CLA.

With some of those older leather covered folders the "open button" would be under the leather. Look around the body for a nice size bump about the diameter of a pencil eraser, push it in firmly and hopefully it will unlock and try to pop open.

Okay just to make it all clear I scan @ 4800 ppi

 

Now from what I have read lately most flatbeds scanners don't improve over 2400 ppi.

 

I also read something about images losing even more detail when there are down sized in PS? Any info on correct sizing steps?

John: I understand what you're saying about scanning at max res.

If I owned a Nikon scanner I would do this but..I don't.

<br><P>

From what I have read it's a waste with a flatbed. Most flatbeds including my epson 4490 can't do large scans from 35mm,

<br><P>

 

That's why I stopped at 12x18 360PPI

 

Plus I figure if I do need to print something that large (above 12x18)

I'll find the neg and rescan, possibly I'll have a better scanner by then.

 

But thanks for the tips everyone.

Keep posting I'm learning

Yes I scan at 16bits some say even 24bit color but that's another issue.

 

I scan at 12x18 because that is my max size I care to print at.

but chances are I will only go to 11x14 or 8x12.

 

I understood everything your posted above except for "interpolation"

 

What is that?

I've been slowly learning the proper way to scan B&W and some color 35mm and MF

negs.

With my 4490 epson scanner, sure flatbed isn't the best but it's all I have.

I'm wanting fair or better results and get 11x14 or maybe 8x12 prints.

I scan my negs @ 12x18 360dpi, this might be overkill for a epson flatbed.

 

 

 

Before scanning my negs I check the histogram and make sure I'm not "clipping"

Once in photoshop cs3 I adjust levels until the images looks right.

 

There seems to be many techniques out there for further image processing.

I would like to learn more about

 

Sharpening (to balance out flatbed scans)I'm confused about sharping layers?

 

Proper resizing steps?

 

Curves?

 

I would love to read the workflow of others and the steps they use?

I know how to scan but not how to do the proper post editing.

So my ears are open to ANY tips or links.

 

 

THANKS!

Well I own both, due to the weight and size of the P6 I never use it.

My TLR is always the first pick. But if I want to shoot macro/ up close pics and get precise composition I grab the P6

I love working on rolleicords and shooting with the old uncoated triotar lens.<br><p>

 

This photo was taken with that old three element lens, <br><p>even though most people on this site said to avoid it and get a tessar.. <br><p>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/myequation/Untitled-10-3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a><br><p>

I own both and love them both.

Any lens can take a fun picture.

 

By the way this site has a link for a FREE download of Rollei TLR blueprints.<br><p>

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html

 

<br><p>and a forum for repair tips

I hear you Bob on the "Edit first then scan" but trust me, after years of slow painful darkroom proofs and printing a negative scanner is fun and easy.

 

I enjoy scanning what I never took the time to print 6 years ago.

Sometimes I find gold others times just a laugh.

 

 

 

and yes I do check for unclipped histograms and scan at 16bit

The reason I started scanning BW negs as positives was because I was told PS did a better job of inverting the picture

Thanks,

Like I said before all the step by step guides I had read never said if I could safely stop and save. I like the idea of having a scanning day and an editing day.