kadir_kirisci

<p>BTW, should the number indicator on the back changes when you shoot or is it all manual? </p>

<p>I got it while ago, i have around four 30 meter rolls of it. all C41 </p>

<p>Hello,<br> recently I got a A70 back that I cant use<br> , looks really clean I would grade it like EX.<br> The winding handle on the back is little stiff,<br> The indicator on the right side (one close to the body) shows RED all the time.<br> If i use a screw driver I can make it turn to white.</p> <p>When I mount the back to my 500C or 500 EL/M I cannot make it work.<br> Here is what happens.<br> On 500C,<br> I cannot wind the body if back is attached on the body<br> Winding crank feels really hard to turn, and I don't want to damage my camera.</p> <p>On 500 EL/M,<br> motor isnt strong enough to wind the back. It just stops after making some sound.<br> I loaded cassettes with film and without film but still no help.<br> ---<br> After that I decided to get a new A70 back but ones on ebay are showing RED indicator on the ride side too. My understanding is (might be really wrong) if the back is not attached to anything and if it is showing RED that means back is malfunctioning. However, I might be really wrong about this.</p> <p>Any help?<br />thanks</p>

<p>I actually saved so much backing paper in years, so I have a lot. I do my own developing and dont throw away the backing paper.</p> <p>I never used 220 film but, heard it doesnt have backing paper like 120, so I might try to roll my own 220.<br> <br />Problem with 70mm is, backs are really big and if something bad happens you lose so much. Also, scanning 70mm frame is harder than 6x6 and i personally like 6x6. Other problem is, many 70mm film that i can film today have no pre-holes. My hasselblad back requires holes. So, if i just convert the film for 120, it will be much easier to use. <br> My design idea is placing a razor in some kind of a box and let the razor cut it. razor will stay still so there will be no danger at all (hopefully). I'm planning place the razor with 45 degree angle, so it will cut. <br />I just need to design a mechanism to roll the film in darkness. Hand-crank or something like that will do it.<br> BTW, thanks for that 127 film suggestion, i will look to it and try to design something </p>

<p>Hey, this is just a project that I would like to ask some questions before even trying.<br /><br />So,<br />I'm planning to design a some kind of "machine" that cuts 70mm in 120 film size and so I can roll it with backing paper.<br />To me, it doesn't sound stupid or crazy (yet) and maybe many of you know that 70mm film can be found dirt cheap (sometimes)<br> For example, if i get 30 meters of Portra 160 in 70mm for 70 bucks, and 120 film is only only 72 cm long.<br> So, with 30 meter bulk film of 70mm I would get 41.66 rolls of 120.<br />i Know i will lose some, so lets make it like 35.<br> lets say i got 35 rolls out of 30m bulk, $70/35=2, so each portra will cost me 2 bucks.<br />It's cheap. </p> <p>I tried to google some things but couldn't find anything about a project like this.<br> If I'm not mistaken 70MM/126 film is just slightly taller than 120 film.<br> So, If cut it in the proper size, it should work!<br> I might be completely wrong, that is my Im posting my plan here.<br> Any input/recommendations will be highly appreciated </p>

<p>peter is right, it costs a lot to buy chemicals but once you get them it's dirt cheap to make formulas.</p>

<p>Indeed I'm not. I have to make my own stuf, I buy necessery chemicals in bulk and use them over and over again. the fixer formula i found had so many "unique" chemicals that I do not own or will never need for something else. So I needed to ask. The formula Peter gave is perfect for my needs and I can make it. Thanks again Peter!</p> <p>But again,many people said that any rapid fixer is fine, so I can order 5L ilford rapid fixer and be done with it.<br> ______<br />Some people may wonder or question why I'm not getting a press kit or c41 kit.<br />Well, they are really expensive. The C41 dev I make goes for a really long time. Press kits usually go for 18 rolls max. My dev costs me like 4 dollars per litter and developes more than 18 rolls. Same for the bleach and stab<br /><br />Any ways,<br> Thanks again!</p>

<p>So can someone put a link for a fixer from Adoroma or B&H, please?<br /> I read some Ilford products they sa<br />"It is easy and convenient to use in the temperature range of 18-40°C (66-104°F) for fixing black and white film and paper in all manual and machine processing applications."<br />--<br />I do not want to buy that huge kodak fixer (its 5 liters) <br />I want something small to start with.<br /> 1 liter small bottle will do just fine.<br /><br />I just do not want to buy the wrong stuff and destroy my films. <br /><br />Thanks</p>

<p>Hello, I'm trying to get a fixer for C-41 film.<br />I have two options, I can make my own but it costs a lot,<br> or buy one.<br> <br />Can i use this fixer for c-41 film, it says C-41/ RA-4 and it makes me confused.<br> http://www.adorama.com/KKFCRAFR5L.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwnf2wBRCf3sOp6oTtnjYSJAANOfheHIu0S4cQxPXHEzEVYJN7q4H7HFSbUgdr5kJj-6nq2RoCo3zw_wcB<br> --<br> Is there any other fixers that i can use with color films? For example, ilford rapid or anything like that?<br />any recommendations? <br> I do not want to buy C41 kits with everything needed. I make my own developer and bleach from left over chemicals I have. However I have not enough chemicals for c-41 fixer <br> thanks </p>

<p>I really thank to all of you, for teaching me so many things about this format!<br /><br />I decided to sell my Mamiya m645 and Custom Rb67 with the lenses and such.<br> Also, selling my Nikon 105mm F1.8 can get me a Hassel 80mm CF or something similar.<br> Since, I can buy an Hassel to Nikon adapter, there isn't much reason to keep my Nikon Ai/ais gear. <br />I can use Hassel lenses on my Nikon digital and film bodies. After I found that out, i was really happy. <br> I guess I will sell 4 lenses from my mamiya gear and 4 lenses from my nikon gear and get hassel 60 and 80mm for now. Also A16 and A12 back because I like both formats.<br /><br />With the left over money, I can buy chemicals for my darkroom also. So I can actually keep working on my developing skills and "custom" chemical builds. I like to mess with chemistry.<br /><br />Again, thank you all for all the great ideas! <br />I really liked Hassel community, you people are all humble and friendly. Unlike many others.<br /><br />Regards! </p>

<p>Oh well, so what is the "best bang for the buck" lens for this system?<br />I think the silver color 80mm is really popular because I see it on everywhere.<br /> I want something around 50-90mm range if possible. <br />I'm not in hurry too, I had two nikon fm2 and just gave one and got a Hassel.<br /> <br />I didn't reseach much because I wasn't using that nikon body anyways</p>

<p>If you are fine with 645 format, Mamiya 645 is a good option. Its light and cheap... Still a mamiya</p>

<p>Hello,<br /> Recently I traded my Nikon Fm2 body for a Hasselblad 500 C with everything except a lens.</p> <p>Hassey was something I really wanted to have for almost 10 years, and I'm only 22 years old.</p> <p>I was looking at online stores for used Hasselblad lenses but they are little expensive for my budget. I don't want to sell my nikon lenses to get a hasselblad lens.<br /> <br />So I was wondering if there are lens alternatives for Hassel? Russian made, German made or African made I really don't care at this point. I just don't want to pay +250 dollars for a lens. Buying a lens for that camera and using a adapter to convert it to a hassel isn't a problem either. If possible of course </p> <p>On my mamiya Rb and m645 I mainly use 60, 70, 80 and 90mm. <br /><br />Any help will be appreciated. <br />thank you</p>