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The two distance scales may have been for plates and film, I really have no idea, I only know that some old Kodak folders with combination backs had scales for plates and film but the two separate scales are miles apart in terms of numbering, whereas yours are very close to each other, about the thickness of a glass plate perhaps. The "A" on the red scale has me baffled. Large format folk might be able to inform you about those scales, and what the "A" is for. Of course you'll need to use a makeshift frosted glass to determine which scale is for the the plate holder, but then you'll need to know exactly where the emulsion surface was situated in the holder. The camera appears to be a 3 1/4" x 4 1/4" camera and there's sheet film available on Ebay in fresh Shanghai 100, and expired Kodak Plus X Pan (if you're lucky). If there was ever a roll film back for it, it would have been for 118 size film. Thanks for sharing, the camera looks to be in very good condition ... anxious to see some shots, if you ever get around to it.

Thanks John, I need those also.

Strictly speaking, this thread has no real purpose unless the OP conveys to us the eventually outcome. The OP has offered a "very fair offer". It would be nice to know what it was, after the completion of the deal, if a deal is actually struck. And any offer/price adjustments that were made, if any.

Asking prices are from US$240 to US$400. Sorry, it's not easy to ignore auction prices. Sold listing prices are much lower, except for one or two at US$300. Going by that info, your camera is worth about US$150. With these cameras, it's not the condition so much, it's more about demand, there's a supply, but not a lot of demand, only top-notch ones are in demand and will fetch higher prices. If the camera was loaned to you, was there an option to buy? Make an offer and see what the owner says. Start at eighty, do a Rick pawn stars offer, and go a little higher if need be.

Fantastic write up and great photos Gary, thanks for sharing. Bausch did a great job of making those Tessars, licensed from Zeiss I believe, and they never seem to be afflicted with permanent haze from aging glue, characteristic with other Tessars. Perhaps Bausch's Tessars were designed such as to not require glue. The one I have, on a 3A Kodak, is crystal clear, not bad for a 4 element lens of that age. Now that you've cleaned the pollution from yours, I'm certain it will stay crystal clear as well. The variably focusing on the Ansco 3 is the same as the Kodak No3 series 3, in principle, but the rails can seize on those Kodaks. I spent hours applying lapping paste trying to free the rails on one. Finally did, but your Ansco only has one rail whereas the Kodak has two, one on top of the other. Any rails on folding cameras need greasing periodically.

On the other hand, a lack of pressure on the roller may be the problem, as you say. Here's a guy who had the same problem and he's replying to Matt in another site in 2020 ... "Thanks for the reply and for confirming my thoughts, Matt! I am going to get an adapter soon. The OEM adapter comes with take up spool that pushes the film firmly against the axel, so the exposure counter will always advance –> no film wasted! The cassette holder can also be rotated by a coin" If you could apply more pressure on the "axle" with the DYI setup, that might very well solve the frame counter issue.

The "Film advance stopper" must be engaged before the frame counter will work. You may have to wedge it with something or tape it to hold it in place to get the counter working.

Light leaks or chemical processing faults

Here they are. Click the black square at top right for larger image size. https://www.photo.net/profile/145892-ken-krueger/?tab=node_gallery_galleryImages

Perhaps a lower light output, and increased time to expose the paper. If there is a transformer in the works for the 22.5v bulb, that voltage is all you'll get for the 30v bulb. The 80w means you'll get only a third of the light you were getting before with the 250w bulb.

Great that you got one with original box and instructions, boosts it's value somewhat. 100 ASA or slower would be recommended. A tripod would be wise with a cable release. The shutter lever will have a tight spot when overcoming the spring tension in the shutter, right at the last bit of the lever action. This can cause camera shake if the camera is not held firmly against your chest when using handheld. If you use higher film speeds, you might be restricting yourself to f32 - f64, limiting the use of the camera.

On auto mode, the flash will act the same as if it was on the camera, it's just that the flash will be beaming on the subject from a 45 degrees angle. So your exposure settings will be the same as on camera. Be mindful though that the shadow side of the subject may need another 1/2 stop exposure. Experimenting with both auto and full flash will be needed I'd say, until you hit on optimum exposure settings.

Huh?

Likewise, the easiest "repair" I've ever tackled was 2 drops of lighter fluid on the shutter blades of a Minolta Hi-matic 9, which was listed cheap and "Shutter not working", other than that, the camera is smick (that's Aussie slang for close to new condition).

No difference from my experience using both, in different devices. Just the capacity may be a worry. There's adapters that are full size SD, and a micro SD can then be inserted and used in any device the takes the large SD. Some wildlife cameras take only the small SD, and they can store quite a few pics depending on the quality that's set in the camera's menu. I think you'd need a high capacity micro SD if you intend to use it in your digital camera, and set on 12MP, you'll be good to go.

Package arrived today, took about 20 days, not bad. Again, it was a trouble free transaction and delivery from Ukraine

Welcome back .... you're a little ahead of us there. What was it like?

Taken in Central New South Wales Typical tall Australian Gum tree. The birth place of many a black bird called "Choughs"

Taken in Central New South Wales

Great pictorial quality in this thread ... damn, now I've got to try and keep up. I've wrestled with my customized Mamiya Press Standard for months trying to get the infinity focus right. I finally did it, it was the lenses needing adjusting for focus, not necessarily the rangefinder. Love your use of Adox developer Rick (Drawbridge), and your "Park" shot is awesome ... any problems composing that one ? Long expired Kodak Plus X Pan film developed in ID 11 1:1 for 8mins, 100mm lens Taken in Central New South Wales

Sometimes a drop or two of lighter fluid or contact cleaner on the switch and related electrical components will fix such problems.

If you suspect a light leak, place a mini torch in the camera in a dark room and wait ten minutes until your eyes adjust, then search for tiny specks of light and note where in the camera they are.

I checked again, the film was expired Plus X Pan, not Delta 100, but still developed in ID 11

Four pages of your pics here .... https://www.photo.net/profile/467865-jlambuth/content/?type=gallery_image

For the 8th "BOOM BOOM" Central NSW - from test roll in Franka Rolfix II, Trinar lens, overcast day, Delta 100, ID 11 1:1 Taken from my car window, expanded a bit.