bill_harris1

I had the same problem (temporaly). I belive your white balance needs to be adjusted...I put my white balance a "A". No more blue pictures.

I used lith batterys on my F5. It will really eat up a set of alkalines, If you do not make some "custom" settings..I found it best not to use some features..I use 3/sec shut down,rewind film manually. I could run 35/40 36 exposure rolls. Liths are expenseive, but not in the long run.

What ever happened to the Kodak Back..? I would love to have one on

my F5 if they are still around and available at a reasonable price.

Thru personal experiece I advise DO NOT attempt repairs yourself by taking apart the flash. You are playing around with HIGH voltage. Pay the $35.00 and chalk it up to a learning experience. The capacitors store up a lot of voltage even with batteries out, make the wrong move and you have a melted flash.

Some memories or something new for most of you. Ths is B-25G Mitchell

Bomber that I was Crew Chief on..It was unique in that it had a 75mm

cannon in the nose. It also had had thirteen 50 cal.mchines

guns,carried 2000 pounds of bombs. A very deadly weapon..We

participated in action in the Gilbert (Tarawa)Marshall and Mariana

Islands (Siapan)..We also bombed southern Japan from Okinawa. Flew

low level support for Marines on the invaion of Tinian twice a day.

They are only about one mile apart<div></div>

I use a 512 Flash card...I shoot my D100 in JPEG medium /normal..I down load them to a Jump Drive, edit, then download load them to a CD.They make outstanding 8X12 prints...By putting them on a master disk I lose nothing of the orginal photo. When I want to make a reprint I simply download them to another disk..This way I believe the orginal file is preserved.

Those of you that have been there can readily indentfiy...A very

emotional place..<div></div>

How many of you can indentify what this photo is picture of. If you

have been there you can readily indentify it..<div></div>

All the above is good advice. Personally I use auto "wb" and a 2 stop ND filter. A polarizer is not much use in the middle of the day except it lowerz the ISO around one stop. I have found the ND filter gives the photo better saturation and contrast. Trying to adjust the WB manually is not as good as Auto under most any shooting condition. I use it otside,inside under any lighting conditions. Good results. The photo attached was shot his way..<div></div>

I own both D70 and a D100...They are both set on "mass storage', auto white balance and auto ISO..I believe most people have problems "jacking around" to much with something they no nothing about.They could have any camera made and still have problems ....I have no such problems as to what I read on this forum.I have SB 28 Dx on the D100 and SB800 on the70. When out in the bright sunshine I use a 2 stop ND filter. I am fortunate to have a professional lab close by that makes my shots look great. I believe some of you mess around with things you do do not have the experience to be messing with. I prefer the D100 over the D 70 because it has a vertical shutter release and most of my shots are vertical and there is not a nickels worth of difference between the cameras two otherwise.I use nothing but Nikor "D" type lens..I think some of the newer lens are not of the same quality as the "D" type.. I have had N90s and still have a F5..No digital ever made compares favorably with them. I now use digital now for the same reason most of you do..Expense. Both of these cameras will perform most anything you might want to do. You will find it unecessary to ask a lot of second grade questions when you get out and use the camera until you have mastered it..I download my pictures to a Lexar Jump Drive, edit them and then put them on disk and off to the lab. Sending you work to a drug store or WalMart a no-no..send you work to a professional. You will not have near as many problems. My 4X6 prints cost me $.42 cents..I have been shooting for around 35 years and I have learned a few things about cameras and how to use them.

I have read the manual on "mirror lock-up" on the D100 and can not get

it to respond as outlined in the manual..The mirror lock-up is not high lighted on the menu and the cursor will skip over it. What am I missing?

IMHO the F5 is still the best of any SLR cameras around...I used one for a number of years and still have it. I probaly had one of the first ones ever sold in Houston. A friend of mine who worked At Houston Camera Exhange wife was a Nikon Rep. and was able to get me one before HCE had them on their shelves....I do not use it anymore. To sell it would be like selling my pet Chihuahua..The only reason I do not use it is because I am Chief Photographer for Arabia Shrine and they want to archive the pictures which is must easier and cheaper to do with a digital. I now use a D100 which is a excellent camera and produces quality photos. I use Nikor D type lense with a SB28DX flash

I don't believe I lose a thing with JPEG. Using JPG Fine the file is usually around 1.5 mgs...I download these files to a direct drive then onto a CD...Then if I want to use them for the web I simply "send" it back to a direct drive and edit it for what ever use I want to put it to. I have perserved my orginal file. They make great a great 11/14...

I have nothing against RAW,it just is not my cup of tea..To each his own,

I do not know what model 24/120 Chris was talking about..I have a 24/120D Nikkor that is great..I also have 28/200d NIKKOR. They worked great on my N90s and F5...I now use them on a D70 and a D100. They make very sharp 11x14s ..

As far as I can tell they are not slow to focus..As with any auto focus camera or lense they can be slow to focus depending on the contrast of what you are trying to focus on.

I see no need of using RAW files...They are a PITA...JPEG fine is more than adequate for your purposes...Besides you had better touch base with lab you intend to send the RAW files to...I use probably one the best photo labs in Houston..They will not accept RAW files...Anything but RAW...

There is a way to recover images that have been deleted mistakenly. I

know there is some software that can recover these images...Could

some one clue me in on it...Thanks..

Bill Harris

Another suggestion that has not been memtioned is the D100. It is a fantastic camera that will make very sharp 11X14s..My wife has a D70 and is my not IMO as good as the D100. Too flimsly.The D100 is somewhat more expensive that the D70...But it is worth it..Of course the sharpness depends mostly on the lens you are using...I use Nikor "D" type lense. The D100 has a battery pack which increases greatly the number shots you can take without recharging and is heavy with a flip bracket...The ergonomics are better(IMO) than the the D70.

David

Maybe this information will help..I am running XP on a Pc..I saved these to Lexar drive..copied to a disk..P/S and Arc Soft will not open them because they do not recognize the file extension...It runs something like this..JPG 000,001,002, etc, At the moment I have them on a cd..I am at a loss how to open them...Maybe some Good Samaritan will see this and help out..

I ran Lexar rescue...I have over 120 photos I recovered but, so far

I have not found a way to open these files..Can anyone help out?

This has happened to me twice before..Never edit from your flash card.

I download my flash card to a Lexar direct drive or you can do it by downloading them to "My Documents"...Then edit from Lexar or documents. This way your photos are safely perserved on you flash card.

I have no ideas why it will delete the whole flash card when you are only trying to delete one photo. Only when they are safely burned to a CD do I clear my flash card. I find it much easier to do it with a direct drive such as Lexar.

I.. can not tell you where to buy Stroframe Accy in the UK..but you do not need a skid plate for the flip bracket...Only on the the larger Pro type brackets would you need one.

Robert...That is one way of doing it also..But, as I remember the Hassy I used was a 500C , While I do not really remember it's sync speed it was probably no more than a F3...I do not know why he does'nt break loose and get himself a newer flash..I have a SB 24 that he can buy from me for a very reasonable price..To me it is a very simple procedure. It is all a matter of knowing you equipment and how it works. It isn't all in the manual..Experience is a great factor..I am 82 years and while not of a technical nature I have been taking photos with Bownies on up..And know where of I speak. But, to "each his own"..Good shooting!

Another and more simple way is to use the "spot meter". Take exposure off subject and lock it and shoot...The fill flash is very simple also. Why people have problems with it I fail to understand.. There is nothing magic about it..All you basicially have to do is bring up fill flash on your flash and shoot it into the darkest part of the photo..This will balance shadows with ambient lighting..Been doing it for years..I did it before they ever put a fill flash feature on flashes by using a light meter. I did it with a Hassy and Metz flash.. Did it with an F5, SB24..The only way you can really understand how easy it is buy doing it. It should be like eating "Blue Bell Ice Cream" with a digital.

I use Brother Labeling. You can buy these little label makers at most office supply houses, the cost is very reasonable, I got mine for $30.00. Print folder name on a half-inch tape..peel off back and paste to CD...Another way is to buy Fellowes labeling software along with labels and print the the folder name on on the label and paste to cd using a stomper which comes with the software..Both are very simple use.

I was also crew chief on a B25J.After flying the "G' 53 missions it was retired after supporting the Marine invasion of Tinian. We took the "J" s to Okiniwa where we bombed southern Japan until the war ended. I seriously doubt that you will ever see one that was in combat, because they left hem where they happened to be after the war was over. I can not recall how many "50s" it had or how many rockets it could carry, but they were a flying arsenal.