mark_miranda2

<p>Kurt's Camera Repair, in San Diego<br> I recently had them do some on my Nikkormat FT3, (also a meter issue), and now it's like brand new right out of the box.<br> I've been using them years. I also just got my F2AS back just fter the holiday, they fixed a corroded wire issue, checked and adjusted, and now one my of favorites is working beautifully!<br> They are factory authorized Nikon, amoung others.<br> Like most, they're not inexpensive, but I've never had any issues in 35+ years.<br> I know that I can keep using these cameras for many years to come.<br> Don't know what part of the country you're in, but they also do mail order from all over<br> Check their website & call 'em up for lead times if you like, I do know that they can get pretty busy.<br> Good luck!</p>

<p>At what speed are you rating your film...what developer are you using...<br> 12:30 sounds like a slight "pull" of the HP5, if you're using ID11 as your developer, (don't know which Delta you're referring to), and as Mr. Monday states, highlights will be affected most. If your exposure is a little under, say 1 or 2 thirds of a stop, you should still get very reasonable results, your contrast will increase a little, nothing wrong with that if that's what you're after. Most B/W films are very forgiving, and can tolerate a little in either direction whether it be exposure or development.</p> <p>I think that small percentages in development times aren't too problematic, but when you start getting into the 10% range and above, that's where things start to show noticable differences.<br> Key is, be consistent in your methods so that results are repeatable. Don't be afraid to experiment with exposures and development, that's how we've all learned. <br> One other thing to consider...are you printing in a darkroom, or...do you intend to scan the negatives and then have them printed?<br> Most of all...have fun with it!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Mr. Hamm & Mr. JDM have it exactly right...PS is a little more than I need, so I use LR, on a MAC, and the conversion tools are plentiful. I use it for RAW files and film, and it works beautifully. I will say this...once you load RAW files into LR, get the image right to where it looks best in color, then...do the conversion, and then do any more editing as necessary, you'll be pleasantly surprised at your results! Most of all...have fun!</p>

<p>Adams, Rowell, Sexton, the Westons, Joe Cornish and Peter de Graaff (check out his image of El Cap in Yosemite on Flickr) yeah they're a bunch of old timers, but they've been the most influential for me.</p>

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<p>I hate when I do stupid stuff!</p>

<p>By the way...I saw your image titled "Hope"...nicely done, color right where it should be, not oversaturated, excellent shadows...hats off! </p>

<p>can't disagree at all...but you better get those pesky gremlins outta your camera before they do more damage ;>)</p>

<p>I've encountered this very thing more than once in the past, looks to me like your film holder has a light leak. If you've loaded your film bottom edge first, the issue most likely, is where dark slide slot is. I've seen this mostly in older or aged, film holders that I acquired over the years. Due to lack of attention on my part, I ran through a number of sheets of film before the "light went on". Try loading & developing a sheet of B/W in the suspect slot without removing the slide, if the neg developes clean, you're good. Next, again, load a sheet, insert the holder into the camera, pull the slide and the reinsert, without firing the shutter, and develop that sheet, if it looks like your example that you've shown here, you've most likely found the problem. As mentioned above, there's a possibility that it could be a bellows thing, but the pattern is sometimes a little different, it tends to show across the entire sheet in most instances.</p>