nikos_k

<p>It could be a problem of the batteries. Get good ones. I came across a situation where the batteries could give 1.5V for a few seconds and then their voltage dropped down to 1.2V or less. After a while they were up to 1.5V. Not sure why that happens.<br>

Changed to good, branded ones and everything went back to normal.</p>

<p>Pardon me for resurrecting such an old thread. I have acquired a never used LC-A and I am experiencing the same problem. Turning the camera even at the sky away from the sun at ASA 400 makes it click without opening the shutter.<br>

I have fiddled with it for quite a bit and I have discovered that:<br>

- The LC-A does not have an exposure lock thing. Half press of the shutter button lights up the red led just for the battery check and nothing else.<br>

- Slowly pressing the shutter button may leave you with a never opened shutter, while briefly pressing it all the way down trips the shutter even when pointing the camera into the sun.<br>

I think that there is a design flaw at least for the early versions of the LC-A that affects the circuitry that holds the power required to open the shutter when the led comes up. </p>

<p>1st: Do not expect a big boom with the XP2. There will be nothing really spectacular to drop your jaws in comparison with the current XP1.<br>

2nd: If it was for me to spend A for the XP2 and half of it or less for the XP1 then the XP1 would be my choice no matter what.</p>

<p>Looks very nice! I will mix fresh FX1 and try it with it. Should I underexpose it though to compensate for the speed gain in FX1. I used to expose Pan F+ at EI 80 and develop it in FX1. Do you recommend doing the same with it?</p>

<p>Thanks Robert. I guess exposing it at EI 50 would not ruin anything since its box speed is ASA 64? Do they have a large exposure latitude?</p>

<p>Has anyone tried these films? What EI and what development times would you suggest if it is to be processed with D-76 or D-23?</p>

<p>I have tried various tricks to make something similar to that but all have failed. It is not a big deal, I can remove the film in a changing bag, but for the shake of completeness is there anyone that sells parts from retinas?</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br>

Thank you so much! These photos have helped a lot! That small piece is missing. Is it simply locked in that place? In that case I could try cutting a metal triangle close to that and fit it in there.</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br>

Are there any photos available of how it looks like? Do I have to remove the top of the camera to fix it? It would be easier if I had at least a photo of how it looks like when it is properly assembled. I'm afraid that I will open it, but have no idea what it should look like.</p>

<p>First thank you all for your replies.<br /> It seems that there is a problem with the fork that engages atop of the film spool in the film cassette. Through the last roll, I had to open the camera in a bag, remove the cassette and the film and rewind the film back by hand.<br /> I have tried rewinding the film with the knob retracted, but it did not work.<br>

Is there any photos/schematics available on the parts that make up the rewind assembly of the Retina II?</p>

<p>I have a pre-war Kodak Retina II type 142 and the fork that engages the film spool turns freely and I cannot rewind the film back to the canister using the rewind knob. Can this be repaired?</p>

<p>I have gotten a bit confused. Would I get better results If I overexpose it at a lower EI, say 50, and develop it normally with the times given for the ASA 125?<br>

For example if at ASA 125 plus-x requires 5.5 minutes in stock D-76, for how long should I try developing it if shot at ASA 50?</p>

<p>I have a few rolls of Kodak Plus-X expired on 1979. I have shot the first roll of it at EI 100 and developed it for 5:30 minutes in stock D-76. The negative came out rather dark and dense lacking shadow detail.<br>

What exposure/development would you recommend for the rest of it?</p>

<p>How can I clean that galvanometer with some solvent? There is a plastic sticker on it. Would there be any problems removing it?<br>

How can I regulate the galvanometer at optimum?<br>

Sorry for being such a pest,<br>

Nikos.</p>

<p>May I ask something else? I had the galvanometer rotated by releasing the two big screws that hold it and rotated it so that now the needle gets captured within the red zone when off. The problem now is that the readings are incorrect. Is there another way of adjusting the galvanometer?</p>

<p>That did the trick! I have removed the base plate and adjusted the galvanometer as said. Now it works perfectly!<br>

Thank you so much!</p>

<p>I have acquired a little Oly 35RC and it behaves strangely. When setting it to off, the shutter is not locked and it fires at the widest aperture. It does the same thing when I try at A without batteries. In manual it works perfectly. I have not tested it with batteries because the - terminal came off.<br>

I have also noticed that when I set the aperture at 2.8 the needle in the finder goes up to between 2.8 and 4.<br>

Can this be repaired? Can I make it again lock when off? With what could I put back the battery terminal that came off?</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Should I try it at box speed? I will definitely get HC-110. So far I have been mixing my own D76, but it seems not to be the best all around developer.</p>

<p>I have a few rolls of macophoto u64c that have expired in 2004. At what EI should I expose it and what development time is suggested in D76?</p>

<p>My D90 has developed some strange behavior. When using my Nikkor Micro 40mm 2.8 it focuses painfully slow to infinity. With my Nikkor 50mm 1.8 AF-D the action is fast and snappy. <br>

I have tried the Nikkor Micro 40mm 2.8 on my Nikon F-100 and it focuses reasonably faster. Is this a lens or camera problem?</p>

<p>Thank you! It seems to be so. I will follow your advice and leave it as it is. I will do something as soon as I start noticing problems in the image quality. Does that do any permanent damage to the lens' optics?</p>

<p>So I guess that I will have to remove the front group and then the front element of that group. It will not be as easy as removing the name plate an then just the front element, is it so?<br>

There is no haze within the lens, just a group of tinny droplets at the periphery of the front of the lens.</p>

<p>The one on my 50mm 1.4 SSC had partly pealed off and looked ugly. I had it completely removed and used lighter fluid to clean up the residue of glue on the lens. It had left no traces at all.</p>

<p>My lovely Nikkor 24mm 2.8 (AI mount) has developed some sort of condensate behind the first element. It seems that it has no effect in the image quality, but is it possible to remove the front element and clean it? Is that element glued to others and hence not possible, at least by a non professional like me, to remove and clean it?</p>

<p>Pardon me digging out this old thread. What EI would you recommend for a roll of PJM expired on 2000?</p>