nikos_k

<p>I had exposed two of the three rolls. The first came out with faint images and a not completely black leader. I hard thought to give more light and development. Then the second came out dark, but not black. You could make out again slight notions of shapes, but one could not say they were images.<br>

Re-thinking what you've said, indeed the last roll isn't valuable enough to make it for another try. Better sorry for a film lost than those moments on it.</p>

<p>Thank you! The previous film I had developed came out dark but not completely black with faint traces of images on it. For sure, additional development time would make it only darker. What could be wrong with that film? Is it excessive fog due to age and bad storage?</p>

<p>Is there a way to test a part of the film if it can be shot and developed prior to exposing the entire roll? I have used one roll of 135 Svema Foto 125 and came out with almost no image at all. I have another one and I am thinking if there is a way to test if it is still useable or send it to the dust bin.</p>

<p>If I expose it at 400, should I ask from the lab to process it as ASA 400 or as 125?</p>

<p>I have been acquired a few rolls of Agfapan Vario XL. Looking for information on that film, I have came across an agfa add stating that it can be exposed from EI 125 to 1600 in the same roll! How can that be? Is this possible? If I expose the entire roll at 1600, should I ask from the lab to develop it as a 1600 film?</p>

<p>The leader is pre-cut and strangely the film has notches cut at the flat side of the leader. I wonder what these notches are for.</p>

<p>@Charles, yes it is a black and white panchromatic film. Here is the only samples I have found on the web about it. There is also a plain "Svema 125" that indeed is color film. The look of its emulsion also is grey like that of the black and white films. Pretty confusing :-)<br>

@Lex and @Glen, It came in a packaging that I have never seen before. No canister, just rolled on a spool with black paper around it. Providing that I have opened it under room light would it be possible that light might have leaked onto the film through the inner tube of the spool? I have inserted it into an empty canister in complete darkness though.<br>

I love that film! It is a whole new experience right from opening its box! :-)</p>

<p>I have acquired a bunch of old Svema Foto 125 film. The first shock to me was that it does not come in canisters. The second has been to discover that it does not come in canisters, but simply in rolls in some sort of foil.<br>

Where can I find the development times for that film with D-76 and Rodinal? I have checked at digital truth and found nothing.<br>

Does anybody have any experience with that film?</p>

<p>When it comes to use a new developer for first time, you have to give it a try as close as to what you thing would be best and then adjust the development according to your preferences.<br>

I have started using the D-76 too. The first thing I did was developing one roll according to the times listed in the Massive Development Chart and then give it more development time until it gets down to the contrast I would like most.</p>

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=24372">Shun Cheung</a><br>

Didn't know that I should not try winding back the film after start of shooting it. I thought that this way I would keep it flat all the way. Many thanks for this tip!</p>

<p>I always rewind the film a bit after loading to take out any possible slack and keep it as flat possible. I also repeat this a few times in the same roll.<br>

Looking back at most of my films taken with my FE I have noticed for the first time in my life that there is uneven spacing between frames in almost all of them.<br>

I guess that my beloved FE is still perfect. She is black btw.</p>

<p>I will have my beloved FE checked then. It has served me quite well and it deserves it. I can live with this, but I will give it a check anyway. I would really hate myself if something worse happens in the near future.<br>

It might be the way that I wind on the film too as I can recall doing this a couple of times in a hurry without taking care of things.<br>

Btw, I have used just the lovely Nikkor 35mm 2.8 AI on this roll.</p>

<p>My Nikon FE puts spaces between frames unevenly. It does not bother me much as there is no overlapping, but what causes this, can it be repaired?</p>

<p>Recently I had an accident with my computrol bulk film loader. The felt acting like a light seal has gonne. Would it matter if I leave the loader with no seal? Should it be replaced?</p>

<p>Seems like the infamous Shutter Squeal of the A series cameras. Try this first:<br>

http://jetbutterfly.web.fc2.com/camera/e_squeak.html</p>

<p>When things get really bad the shutter goes slow and in some cases jammed open.</p>

<p>1st try re-fixing it. Let it stay for a few minutes more to get most of the base dyes away and see what comes out. Re-fixing will not do any harm.</p>

<p>Yashica by all means! I had many Minox 35s (EL, GL (3x), GT) and they all had eventually failed. They are lovely cameras, but will not last long (plus, when your eyes start giving up it will be hard to read those figures on their lens barrels).</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you for this deluge of info on the 35RC. I have a second RC that although works fine, in manual the aperture needle shows in the viewfinder a stop further than what I select. If say I select f11, in the viewfinder I read f8, If I select f8 it reads 5.6.<br>

It works fine though as the opening is of the correct size.</p>

<p>It is my all time favorite! It is small, compact and does miracles. I would be really sorry if it had been damaged. It is hard to find one in mint looking/functional condition as the one I have.</p>

 

<p>So that is normal! What a relief! I was worried that my little oly had problems. But this is how it looks on mine too!<br>

Thank you very much! You have been really helpful.<br>

Thank you!</p>

<p>Does the aperture of your Oly look somewhat displaced? For example, selecting 5.6 does that squarish shape look dead centered in your lens? Mine looks a bit off center and that makes me think there is something wrong.</p>

<p>I have noted that my Olympus 35RC has developed some strange issue. Trying it with the shutter set at B I have noticed that the shutter blades do not open up symmetrically. It is as if the lower right shutter does not open up completely resulting in a reduced opening displaced a bit off center. <br>

What could be wrong? Is this worthy of devoting time to repair it myself?</p>

<p>Dear All,<br>

Sorry for digging out this old thread. I have an F4 and have trouble operating it in P and S modes. For some reason, the camera seems no matter what to always stop down the lens to the minimum aperture possible, say if I read f/2 or f/5.4 in the viewfinder the lens gets stopped down to f/22 and I get a blinking red locking the camera.<br>

This happens with the AF D lenses, and in the P/S modes only. Also, when I press the DOF/mirror lock up button I see the lens stops down to f/22 (min aperture value locked). Am I doing something wrong, or it is a fault of the camera?</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>Just for the history:<br>

The blinking red led after each shot means a sequence error. In your case the Camera cannot close the aperture automatically properly and thus an error is returned with a blinking red led and a halt of the camera. You can verify this by setting the camera in S, selecting a speed that would leave the aperture fairly open and see your lens being stopped down to f/22 when the shutter is tripped.<br>

This could be due to inability of the camera to communicate with the lens properly, or a failure the aperture setting mechanism on the camera.<br>

(also when in P and S modes, the DOF preview button closes the lens down to f22 no matter what).</p>

<p>RBP, if the foam looks o.k. then you should leave it as is. If you decide to replace it, remove everything (including the finder and the focusing screen), clean off the old one and place the new. This way will save you a lot from accidents especially on the focusing screen.</p>