Dave410

<blockquote> <p>Where did you see this? I missed it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Leo mentioned it in the same <em>Tech Guy</em> podcast. Great radio show/podcast, by the way. He covers "everything with a chip," including digital cameras. Some guy from Germany calls in as his photo expert, even though Leo is a big photographer too. They cover the technical stuff, the artistic stuff and have contests and so on. Fun listening to in the car or at the gym. Cheers.</p> <p>PS I'm one of those unlucky folks who got bit in Microsoft's latest push to force the Windows 10 upgrade. I was working on something and without warning my computer shut down and starting installing Windows 10. Didn't even ask because apparently I pushed the wrong button the last time the nag screen popped up. Fortunately, I restored Windows 7 from a backup and now I've edited the Registry so my computer will never bug me about Windows 10 again.</p>

<p>I have one that came bundled for free with a new camera from B&H. It's my first real photo printer and I think it's wonderful. Clearly, I have nothing to compare it to however. Cheers.</p>

<p>I remember pulling the 8088 out of my PCJunior in the mid-80s and replacing it with some kind of upgraded chip. NEC V20 perhaps. Fun stuff.</p> <p>BTW, Leo LaPorte, <em>The Tech Guy</em>, recently suggested that Apple may skip Skylake for the MacBook Pro and go right to Kaby Lake instead. Microsoft has announced they're having trouble with Skylake and perhaps Apple is too. Too bad, because I've been waiting to see the new MBPs for a long time.</p>

<p>I just purchased a Canon 5D Mark III and a Tamron 24-70 VC because I really wanted the image stabilization on the Tamron and the reviews were pretty good. Unfortunately, the brand new lens would not communicate with the brand new camera. The contacts were fine, so it was some kind of computer problem and other Tamron users have reported the same problem. I never got it to work, so I sent the Tamron back and purchased the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 which works just fine. Just sayin'....</p>

<blockquote> <p>Why this topic again? It has been hashed out and abused so many times it makes me wonder if people are trolling it.</p> </blockquote> <p>This topic comes up over and over again because it's fun to talk about. I don't think anybody is trolling.</p>

<p>Depends. I write a photo travel blog and sometimes I'll keep a photo that isn't all that great because it illustrates a point or I can make a funny joke with it. But if I'm just shooting "pretty pictures," probably over 90% are deleted and gone forever. </p>

<p>Printing in Lightroom has always seemed overly complicated to me, so I should take another look at Print Studio Pro. Many thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks, Rich. I was kinda leaning that way too, but selecting the printer and paper settings from within Print Studio Pro are a bit easier and less confusing. I suppose that once I learn them for Lightroom it will be fine.</p>

<p>You are absolutely right! I misspoke when I said there is no way to get auto focus off the shutter release button because clearly there is. Now I'm wondering how I handled metering on my old 7D. I'll pull it out when I get home and check. Many thanks again. That really helps.</p>

<p>Never mind. I just saw the "here" was a link. Thanks!!</p>

<p>Hi Jeff. Not seeing the explanation, but I would really love to know. Many thanks.</p>

<p>Hi All,</p> <p>I got my first real photo printer as part of a package deal at B&H and I'm trying to get smart about printing. The printer is a Canon Pixma Pro-100 and I have the option of printing through Lightroom or using a Canon plug-in called Print Studio Pro. Any suggestions? Is one better than the other?</p> <p>By the way, that printer is incredible, at least in comparison to other non-photo inkjet printers I've owned. I printed a test photo of some flowers and showed it to my girlfriend with the explanation "This is my first attempt. I'm sure I can get better," but she loved it and went out and bought a picture frame. It's hanging on the wall right now. Look out, Ansel Adams!</p> <p>Cheers,<br />Dave<br> </p>

<blockquote> <p>No. With focus set to the back button, and AI Servo turned on, you simply tap the button for one shot. Because you're not pushing down on the shutter button waiting to shoot, or pushing down again to shoot, you've got your focus from the tap. By the way, this also gives you focus "hold." If you hold down the rear button, you will still have focus active until you shoot.</p> </blockquote> <p>That's exactly how I set up my 7D and it was great! The AF-On button on the back of the camera controlled auto focus and the shutter release button controlled metering and shutter release. No auto focus on the shutter release button at all. Loved it. But I can't do that on my new 5DIII. There is no way to remove auto focus from the shutter release button, which is a real buzzkill. In any case, if your 70D allows you to set things up the way Jeff described, be sure to give it a try. It works great, but be aware that if you hand your camera to someone else they will be completely confused and shoot out of focus unless you explain it.</p> <p>On the other hand, although my 5DIII is deficient in shutter release button options, it has a neat feature that I think I'm going to like. I was able to program the DOF button to control focus mode. Normally the camera is in One Shot focus mode, but if I hold the DOF button with my ring finger, the camera switches to AI Focus. If the subject moves, I hold the DOF button and shoot in AI Focus. Very cool. See if your 70D will do that.</p>

<p>I can't completely answer your question, but I just upgraded from a Canon 7D with the 17-55 f/2.8 lens to a 5D Mk III with the 24-70 f/2.8 II lens and I've noticed an improvement in sharpness and color fidelity. I've pretty much deleted all the import presets I used in Lightroom and now start with the image straight from the camera. The 24-70 is a great lens.</p> <p>For concert shooting however, you may be a little disappointed. The 24-70 does not have image stabilization and the Rebel T3 isn't all that great at high ISO. I really miss the image stabilization I had on the 17-55 and you may want to consider that lens for shooting concerts with your Rebel. It's a very sharp lens, has image stabilization, and opens to f/2.8. It's also a lot cheaper than the 24-70. Just a thought for concerts, but otherwise the 24-70 is great.</p> <p>In reference to the last question, now is a good time to buy a new body. The 5D Mk III is being heavily discounted and you can get one much cheaper than in the past and also bundle it with a free printer and/or other goodies. A 5D Mk III and 24-70 f/2.8 is probably the most popular rig for professional photographers these days. It's also a large, heavy beast of a rig.</p> <p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/986049-REG/canon_eos_5d_mark_iii.html">www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/986049-REG/canon_eos_5d_mark_iii.html</a><br> </p>

<p>Thanks. I figured I could upload the data and was just surprised it wasn't already included. Must be too new or something.</p>

<p>Thanks, everyone.</p>

<p>Just an observation....</p> <p>I learned that the 5DIII can apply lens aberration corrections in camera and comes from the factory with data for 25 Canon lens already loaded. Surprisingly, the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 isn't one of them. I would have thought for sure that such a workhorse lens would be one of the 25.</p>

<p>I just can't pass up shooting flowers.</p><div></div>

<p>This guy was a long way away, but he was breaching so I fired away and really cropped in.</p><div></div>

<p>The humpback whales come down from Alaska and spend the winter in warm Hawaiian waters to give birth and to mate. I finally dragged myself down to Lahaina and went out on a whale watching boat for a couple of hours.</p><div></div>

<p>Too bad that Fuji Crystal Archive isn't available for my Canon Pixma Pro because I was really impressed. I thought the photos on the wall were backlit somehow with a lamp behind the image, but they weren't. It was just the paper illuminated with normal front lighting. And when the curator varied the intensity of the front lighting the images changed as different parts glowed or dimmed. If you ever get the chance, check out one of Peter's galleries and take a look.</p> <p>Hahnemuele Fine Art Pearl. Thanks! I'll check it out.<br> </p>

<p>Hey Gang,</p> <p>I'm setting up the new Canon Pixma Pro-100 photo printer that came as part of a package deal from B&H and wondering what paper to feed it. It came with a couple of packages of Canon Photo Paper Pro Luster, but I know there are lots of other choices. Any suggestions? I'll be printing mostly color and I like sharp, so I'm thinking glossy over matte, although matte has a nice look sometimes.</p> <p>On a similar note, I was in one of Peter Lik's galleries the other day and the curator said Peter uses some kind of paper from Fuji with silver crystals in it. I don't know what it is, but it sure made his prints jump out. Is that paper available?</p> <p>Many thanks again.</p> <p>Cheers,<br />Dave</p>

<p>I bought and read <em>The Vuescan Bible</em> by Sascha Steinhoff before a big scanning project and it was very helpful. You can find it in the Kindle store on Amazon in digital format among other places.</p>

<p>Here's an example with the 70-200 f/4 IS.</p><div></div>

<p>I'm not Colin, but I would say that IS is very important on longer lenses like the 70-200, and I wish it was available on some of Canon's shorter lenses. I have the 70-200 f/4 IS and it's a great lens. Highly recommended and here's a review from Photozone as well:</p> <p>www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/431-canon_70200_4is_5d</p>