scott_murphy5

Shot today at the Alligator Farm Zoological Park in St Augustine FL.

 

The AI coupling is certainly a step or two backward. You're are still using the old lenses that's good and I am using those AI lenses too but that's still backward. I didn't say backward is bad or forward is bad. The AI coupling is backward. Fully electronic coupling like the new E lenses are forward.

 

Again you missed the point. In leaving it out of their presumptive DX flagship they are alienating a lot of loyal Nikon users who still DO use AIS lenses. Canon really screwed a lot of their loyal users when they changed mounts and made it nearly impossible to use some very fine Canon FD lenses. That is backward.

There is also Malware attached to this forum. Make sure your Malware software is up to date!

It's a step forward not backward. Better off forgetting about those old MF lenses besides without the AI tab I think it's possible to use even pre AI lenses on it. No meter but so what?

 

Really? I bet you didn't know that a lot the newer Nikkors were actually AIS lenses converted to AF. And just because they are older does not mean they are inferior. My AIS lenses will still be performing flawlessly 20 years from now, long after all of the current AF models are collecting dust in a closet or filling space in a landfill.

It looks like a step backward in several respects. Only M for non-CPU lenses, no aperture sensing ring around the mount for AI/AIS lenses. Is Nikon finally pulling a Canon and forgetting about their very long time loyal users who still have older and still very fine lenses?

 

PASS

Water spots. Use some denatured alcohol on a piece of chamois to remove them. In the future, use some Photo-Flo to prevent this. And make up your Photo-Flo and all other chemistry with distilled water you can get at the supermarket for about 80¢ a gallon. I rinse the film twice in DW after washing and prior to addition of Photo-Flo and have no problems with water spots or dust spots

A window warning me of Malware pops up each time I go to a new page on the forum. Make sure your malware programs are up to date. If you don't have it, Malware Bytes is an outstanding program for catching this kind of garbage.

The Reflex Nikkor is a fine lens optically. It is a single aperture, manual-focus lens.

Nouveaux who don't know how to focus without training wheels will hate it, but it worked for a lot of sports and BIF shooters in its day.

 

With today's high ISOs, it's easily hand held

 

Bra-vo! +1!

I had one for many years and loved it. There are two camps with this lens; those who loved it and those who hated it. It is very sharp and light and if you get the older version they are very cheap.

 

This was taken with the older version, hand held on a D700

 

Plus-X was a wonderful film. I used to expose it at ASA 64 instead of ASA 125 and develop in Microdol-X 1:3, great stuff. Now I stick to T-MAX 100 for both 35mm and 2¼.

IIRC the MD 2 could only be used at shutter speeds higher than 1/30th. Use at longer speeds created a timing problem that caused a jam.

 

The unreliability of the MD and the cost and weight of batteries to feed it meant that I was only too glad to sell it for a good price.

 

I still have my F2As, but the MD is long gone and never been missed.

 

The slowest shutter speed that can be used with the MD2 is 1/4 sec on L and 1/8 sec on M1. You were not specific about the purported "unreliability" of the MD2 but I have had my MD2/MB1 since 1974 and have probably put 1000 rolls of film though it right up through last weekend and it has never once failed me. The only problem I have had is breakage of the battery holders due to age and brittleness of the plastic, which were replaced about 10 years ago. They weren't cheap but they were in brand new condition. I still have the MN-1 batteries and charger but they don't hold a charge for very long any more so they are just packed away. The camera has been to Nikon twice for routine servicing but the MD has never had nor required any service, and i use it not only for winding but rewinding on essentially every roll.

 

As for it's weight, I picked up my F2/MD2/MB1 in one hand and D700/MB-D10 in the other and could feel no discernible difference in weight. In other words, the difference is a few ounces at most, hardly a deal breaker. And if you use rechargeable AA's like I do in all of my cameras and strobes, the cost of batteries is negligible after the initial outlay.

I would say it is quite a stretch to say that digital photography is not real photography, of course it is.

 

However for people like me who still DO shoot a lot of film, mostly in medium format, I will categorically say that for those of use who started doing photography in the early 70's like I did, when there were no such things as auto ANYTHING (except for auto-diaphragms on lenses) we had to be much better and far more knowledgeable photographers to produce outstanding images. I am floored by how little so many "Generation D" photographers actually know about the technical side of photography. They usually shrug it off and ask "why do I have to know that?". Because, God forbid, you might actually have to focus MANUALLY. To be a truly great photographer you have to be well versed not only on the artistic side of the craft but the technical side as well. Ask a "Generation D" photographer what hyperfocal distance is and how you use it and watch their eyes glaze over and their EEG trace go flat.

Snowy Egret from the Circle B Bar Reserve outside of Lakeland, FL

 

Great Egret, Micanopy, FL

bob_bill said: ↑

d7100 or 7200

 

Forget the D7100, its limited memory buffer capacity makes it unsuitable for wildlife shooting.

 

Utter nonsense. Not all of us have to shoot at 10 fps to get great wildlife shots.

I only use DX for the crop factor to boost the focal length of my 300mm f/2.8 and 600mm f/4 AIS Nikkors and occasionally my 105mm f/2.8 AIS Micro Nikkor. I recently retired my D300 for a D7100 because above ISO 400 the D300 gets a noisy. The D7100, from an IQ standpoint, is an outstanding camera. It performs quite well at least to ISO 800 (the highest I have tried it so far). As for tripod heads, you should really try a gimbal head. Once you get one will wonder why you waited so long to move away from a traditional 3 axis head. Monopods are fine, as long as you can shoot at 1/1000 or faster and are certainly more easily transportable than a tripod (even the light carbon fiber ones). I can consistently shoot with the D7100 or D700 with the 600mm f/4 and TC-300 (effective focal lengths of 1200mm and 1800mm) as long as I can use at least 1/1000 sec.

 

The D7100 does quite well with a carbon fiber tripod, gimbal head and 600mm f/4 ED-IF AIS NIkkor and TC-300.

 

My Nikon Scanner is having issues feeding the negative holder into the scanner. It will feed it for a short distance then it skips, which causes the scanner to kind of freak out so it does not complete the scan.

 

Nikon does not want to work on it because it is so old. Does anyone know someone who will still service these scanners? I still use it a lot on my medium format stuff.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Scott

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/stm58/American%20White%20Ibis.jpg

You might not have noticed it at the time, but my back still bears the scars from suggesting PS over LR.

Well I better take my shirt off and take my lashings too because I agree with you.

Does anyone here know of a RELIABLE URL to download Nikon Scan 4.0.3? My copy of the zip file is on my desktop at home 300 miles away. When you put it into a search engine all you are getting are these sites which are fill of spyware and don't really have the software. If you by chance have the .zip folder I think it may be small enough to email.

 

Thanks in Advance!

 

Scott

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/stm58/White%20Crane%202.jpg

<p>There are adapters available that will work fine.</p>

<p>It kind of looks gimmicky to me. It will be of limited usefulness to serious photographers and I am sure it will not be cheap.</p>

<p>The mirror flips out of the way before the shutter opens, it will have no effect whatsoever on the images</p>

<p>My first inclination was to do just what you did, take a screwdriver and turn the screw at the bottom of the mirror box. But if that does not work, I really am at a loss. If you feel they are worth it I would take them to a camera repairman.</p>

<p>The problem with Medical Nikkors is they rely on closeup lenses to get magnification. Of all of the options available to do macro, closeup lenses are probably second only to using teleconverters. </p>