chuck_pere

Don't forget that 4x5 Tri-x has a different curve shape than 35m Tri-x. Longer toe and a steeper upswept highlight curve. These probably work against pushing the film speed and wanting lower contrast. I'd try HP5 as it has a more general curve in sheet film. Too bad you can't get Delta 3200 in sheet film.

One crude way to get a Zone I is to use a .1 neutral density filter. Run your Zone I tests. Then use a light box and your spot meter to compare the density of the various film exposures to film base plus fog with the .1 filter on top. The meter should be OK for comparing as opposed to an absolute value. You can also use a .3 filter and cut it into pieces. Combine those with the .1 to get whatever you are looking for Zone VIII or ZV. This will get you close enough. I don't use 35mm but suppose it is more important to get a good Zone I compared to larger formats. Over exposure will show up more on 35.

I've used a Nikon 90 f8 for years with no major problems. But if you can afford the added weight and cost it makes sense to get a faster lens. Day in and day out it will be easier to use. I just can't carry the added load without dropping another lens in my case. And I'd rather have the dark screen and more lens choices.

Be sure you check that the lens will fit the Century board and into the hole in the camera front standard. A fast 135 may be pretty big. You may have to go down to 100-105. Nikon M or Ektar 105 F3.7?

I would get the 110 XL and use it as a reference for other lens. It is probably the latest and greatest. But expensive.

The max is 2s without going to manual and setting it to bulb. Bulb will give you whatever time you want. You can use a standard cable release. Helps to have a locking release for long times. In manual mode you will need to set the fstop and time but you can still use the camera meter to get the values.

Also:

http://www.helixcamera.com/home.html

My 65 Angulon (not super) also came in a shutter without a cable socket. It was mounted on a Linhof recessed board for a 2x3 camera. I took the metal adapter piece off the board and mounted it on the Century board. The adapter doesn't have any lever. The cable release screws into the adapter and the adapter is mounted so that using the release pushes the lever on the lens. To hold the lens open you use a locking cable release. The adapter is mounted to the board with a couple small screws. Maybe you could find this adapter. Else you will have to come up with something to screw the release into which lets the release push against the lens lever to fire the shutter. Forget any levers to hold the shutter open and just get a locking release.

Not sure what you are looking for but I'll second the use of a 2x3 Graphic camera. You can use all kinds of old lenses for different looks. Or use a very modern multicoated optic. Backs are available in 6x6, 6x7 (very common) or 6x9. Can also handle closeup work.

I use it as mostly a manual camera for landscapes. Tripod and cable release. I do use the built in meter but I only shoot B&W and print on VC. If you want to focus at a certain point in the scene you can lock the focus at that point by pressing the release button half way down. Hold it that way and recompose and shoot. This will not work for a cable release. So I usually set a manual distance based on how I want to place my DOF. I will also set manual exposure if needed based on the scene. I have done many long exposures with no problems. I would rather have an all manual camera but I like the idea of this zoom lens. It allows a very compact package. Also the camera focuses to about 1m and seems very sharp at close distances. If you can afford the money and weight of extra lenses the Mamiya 7 would be ideal. And the Bronica 645 would be nice for the manual control. But as a stand alone package the Fuji is hard to beat.

Will these chemicals be available from any US dealers?

Not sure if I had the same problem but I removed the Bogan decal from the front. Under it is an Allen head screw. I tighten the screw and it solved my problems. May be worth a look at. I believe my problem was it wouldn't tighten down properly no matter how hard I turned the knob.

A MF camera with variable formats and some movements. Isn't that a 2x3 Graphic? That's what I use now. I'd really like something with rangefinder focusing and interchangable lenses. Like the old Fuji 690. I think any SLR would be just too large. I assume your camera will be guess focus or ground glass. Or use a separate RF. I also assume that to use any movements you will need to use the ground glass. Going that way you may as well take your view camera. For me the simple design at least offers some size advantages. Plus it can take some lenses a 2x3 Graphic can't use.

For unloading you might want to keep at least one fingernail long enough to get under the film at the holder. Also practice unloading in the dark.

Also check Craigslist if you have one for your area. I've noticed some real deals on 35mm equipment. And you get to see the stuff first.

One good lens is the Fuji 250 f6.7. Good coverage for 8x10.

I don't understand frame 8 fb+fog. What does that "net" density mean? Looks to me that fb+fog is .09 and .1 above it would be frame 2 ASA 80.

If you unscrewed the focusing helix did you get it back in the same position? It can be screwed in at several positions. You may have to try a few places to find the right position for infinity focus with the lens screwed far enough in.

I've had some problems with uneven development and streaks when using PMK with film hangers. It does work fine in tanks with inversion agitation. I would try Pyrocat HD with the hangers. I never use trays but I believe both would work with tray processing.

Are there any rangefinder focus 5x7 cameras? A few 4x5's. Plus with 4x5 you could use grafmatic backs to take 6 quick pictures.

I just noticed in a Porters catalog (www.porters.com) an F64 Mid sized backback on special for $69.99. Not sure if this would work for you or even if that's a good price.

You actually use the Zone V exposure settings. You check the shadow area you want detail in. Then close down 2 stops to get the ZV exposure that places the shadow on Z3. Everything the meter reads is ZV exposure. You take that reading and adjust it to place whatever you are pointing at on the Zone you want it to be on. Note that some people like to put the shadows even higher on Z4. Hope this makes sense and that people will correct any errors. If you don't already have it get Fred Picker's Zone VI Workshop book.

Look for some of the old Fred Picker videos. Not everyone agrees with his methods but it will give you a look at one way of doing things. Really the best learning tool is being able to look at good prints. So try and find other local people to look at prints with.

Maybe you could thread an adapter ring or an old filter with the glass removed onto your lens and then just thread filters and hood onto this part.

One way would be to just mount the lens onto a small plywood board and then mount that onto your lens board. Or use some metal piece instead of wood. You probably would need to drill some holes in your existing board to mount the new one. Paint the new pieces Krylon flat black. You might be able to actually tread the lens into the wood. Another way I've heard about is to use a snap ring from the auto parts store to hold the lens onto the board. Buying or having a ring made would cost more then the lens is worth. Same with having to pay to have an adapter made. That would cost more then a new board. A good rule for large format is never buy a lens without a mounting ring or an alternate plan for mounting.