chuck_pere

<p>Kris, I assume you have visited the H. H. Bennet studio in the Dells. <a href="http://hhbennettstudio.wisconsinhistory.org/">http://hhbennettstudio.wisconsinhistory.org/</a><br>

I'd recommended it for anyone visiting the area. Lots of old brass lenses to see. Nominal entry fee.</p>

<p>I use the 65 Angulon with my Century graphic. Mine is also a Linhof version. It seems to get the job done but I'm normally doing 8x10 prints with the occasional 11x14. If you can afford it I would get the Super Angulon. At a minimum it would have more coverage. You may have to pay about $100 more though. I haven't been following current prices but it seemed like in the past a Linhof marked 65SA was around $300.</p>

<p>I've ordered from them for years and never had a problem. So not normal for me.</p>

 

 

<blockquote >

<p>I hope it's OK to put this in the forum. I wanted to get the most direct route to anyone interested.<br>

I have a couple old 126 cameras that someone may want to save from the trash.<br />1. Minolta Autopak 550 with Rokkor 38mm f2.8. Missing latch on battery door. Else seems to work Ok and lens looks OK.<br />2. Wards x42 made in Hong Kong. Seems Ok but lens has a scratch.<br />You pay shipping from 60070. I hope somebody collects these things or even uses them.</p>

</blockquote>

 

 

<p>Can you adjust any exposure compensation to change the ISO through that?</p>

<p>Another possible parts place is:<br>

<a href="http://www.bogentripodparts.com/">http://www.bogentripodparts.com/</a></p>

 

<p>Seems like I recall the Fuji having reported problems with loose rolls. Anyhow I've always used my thumb on the film when loading to introduce some drag and allow the film to start tight on the takeup reel. You might try this for the heck of it. I've never seen any leaks with mine but I have used this procedure since day one.</p>

<p>Thanks for the information. I'll try adjusting it with the lens removed. </p>

<p>Want to make sure my thinking on diopters is correct. Adjustment of the diopter cannot shift the point of sharpest focus seen through the viewfinder. It can only cause that point to become softer or sharper. In other words a misadjusted diopter can't screwup the focus. My Pentax 67II is the first camera I've used with a diopter adjustment and I want to make sure I'm not messing up my focusing.</p>

<p>You can also look at the old 9x12cm cameras. A little larger then 6x9 but still pretty compact for the negative size. You can get Efke 100 from Freestyle. My old Zeiss Maximar with 135 Tessar is certainly able to produce nice negatives. Downsides are no interchangeable lenses and no tilts.</p>

<p>In my limited experience I have found that Delta 3200 seems to have a lower contrast highlight response. This helps very much in printing high contrast pictures. Low contrast pictures needed a higher grade paper to look right. </p>

<p>You may have seen it but if not this article might help:<br>

<a href="http://toothwalker.org/optics/lenshood.html">http://toothwalker.org/optics/lenshood.html</a></p>

 

<p>You could try: <a href="http://www.bogentripodparts.com/">http://www.bogentripodparts.com/</a></p>

 

<p>One of the best 135's is the Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S. Good coverage and a reputation for being a sharp lens. But costly. I've been trying out a later model 135 Xenar that came with a Crown Graphic special. Early 70's in a Copal. The negatives look great to me as do the first couple prints. I'm sure the Apo-Sironar S would be better but for no movement straight on use the Xenar works for me. I do normally try and cleanup any haze in old Tessars. If your lens has any that may be one of the problems. You will have to get on the inside of the front to clean it. Could be easy or difficult. My Xenar is pretty new and I didn't have to clean the inside.</p>

<p>I sometimes need more height for uneven ground. </p>

<p>Checkout this for some info: <a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/19569-silver-recovery.html">http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/19569-silver-recovery.html</a></p>

<p>I'd say that in manual the exposure comp just changes the displayed meter reading. Like changing the ISO. You still need to manually change the shutter or aperture to match the new meter display. So with the shutter you can only bracket by full stops in manual.</p>

<p>Don't forget that the Fuji 645's are normally vertical orientation. You have to turn them on the side to do horizontals. Not a big thing but something to think about if you normally do mostly horizontal pictures. I also love my Fuji 645Zi. Great camera for what it is.</p>

<p>Checkout the Nagaoka or Anba Ikeda cameras. Light and maybe a hair smaller than the typical wooden field camera. You can usually find them used pretty easily. At least in 4x5.</p>

<p>My info shows ED600 covering 200mm at f9 and 310mm at f22. Same for ED800 but at f12(200mm) and same for ED1200 but at f18(200mm). So all cover 310mm at f22.</p>

<p>Are they talking about using this filter for pre-exposure? That technique is used to reduce the contrast of film for harsh light. Or maybe it creates a lot of flare that does the same thing. The flare causes pre-exposure of the shadows and that opens them up. Downside is you will lose some shadow contrast. The small pre-exposure or flare has little effect on higher tones.</p>

<p>I have one Zeiss insert number 725/4 that appears to be made for 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 film. Too small for 9x12cm. The 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 sheet I have fits but does seem a little loose. It would work though. This insert fits right into the standard Zeiss 665/7 9x12 holders just like the 9x12 film sheaths.<br>

I use the Efke 100 9x12 film from Freestyle and it works fine for me. Give it a try.</p>

<p>Have you checked an unexposed sheet of Delta 100 to see if the marks are on the film right out of the box?</p>

<p>Those daylight tanks are difficult to agitate. You might want to try them using a minimal agitation development technique. With this you would agitate every 2 or 3 minutes. Do a search for minimal agitation and you will find lots of information. I don't use it often but I do it with Pyro-Cat HD and Efke 100. For 9x12cm film. Works Ok for me. </p>

<p>Also with TF-4 they say to use water as a stop bath not acid. Checkout the instructions written on the bottle.</p>