kevin_beretta

It is indeed not one of the sharpest lenses I have. The sharpest I think in the cabinet now are the 105 2.8, 35 1.8 and for the zooms, the 70-200 VRII. The 24-70 2.8 isn't bad either but the 50 and 85 1.4 primes seems to be a bit softer. Although, the first shot I took with the D850 and the 85 1.4 was a night shot and it was razor sharp. A D850 is a bit harder to shoot properly than the D700 was. However, having recently discovered Capture One and the way it deals with high ISO, I tend to crank the ISO up a bit more and that helps stabilize things. I uploaded a few full-size NEF files if someone wanted to pick through the differences. berettaphoto.com/other/50compare/KAB_8504.NEF berettaphoto.com/other/50compare/KAB_8506.NEF berettaphoto.com/other/50compare/KAB_8509.NEF berettaphoto.com/other/50compare/KAB_8511.NEF I think a 50 1.4 Milvus is in my future... :-)

I've had a bit of time to play with the manual lens I borrowed. I had no problem whatsoever to get it tack sharp when I was working with it, without using live view or any other aids. It's an F2 50 AI lens, 20+ years old. I compared it to my 1.4 G 50 mm AFS and when focusing closely, the manual lens was sharper. From 4 feet onward it was the same. The big difference was that the new lens rendered color a lot better and had less vignetting. But the purpose of the exercise was met. Sometime before the end of March next year I am going to add a 1.4 50 mm Zeiss to the collection.

[uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER] I don't think that was me ... I've never tinkered with split screen. @BeBu Lamar Switching systems is not an option ... I have a small fortune in good glass I don't want to recycle. @2Oceans I'll take a look at a Hoodman loop. Thanks all for your feedback, we can let this one go :-)

I found an outfit in Taiwan that supplies split screens for the D850. Not much else seems to come up in searches and B&H comes up dry too. There seem to be a lot of focusing screens on B&H for other cameras though ... is there a compatibility? I am debating shooting more manual focus so likely need something more old school to help me focus. Rear screen works but is not conducive to what I want to do.

[uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER], I'm not too worried how the image shows up through the viewfinder. I mean, if people were worried about that Sony would be out of business (I looked through a brand new EVF camera the other day and was appalled how bad those things were versus a prism ... So no, not the requirement). I want the manual lens to slow down and force myself to work through a different way of shooting. Even working with the manual focus a bit this weekend, broken lens and all (Gaffer tape to hold the aperture), I found it quite refreshing to do and I certainly stood still more and observed subjects differently. I have a range of G lenses in my closet but nothing manual ...

Yes, a rental. I already contacted them and they will refund me. It's in town here in Vancouver so a few steps from where I live. It's a new store so I hope this is a one off as I am looking forward to renting a bunch of lenses from them.

It's unfortunate as I was using this lens to see if I liked manual focus lenses. I am debating a F1.2 50 mm Nikon. Thanks for all the feedback.

D850. Not chipped... Puzzled. Oh well.

Mind you, the fail is likely on the user end ... :-) I set the camera to manual on the dial and flipped the lever, set the non-CPU menu to 35 mm and f2 for lens 1. Made sure lens 1 was selected. Mounted the lens and it seems to work fine. When I turn the aperture ring, it shows the correct aperture in the readout. I can take pictures and focus etc. and the focus dot works too. However, the aperture does not stay where it's supposed to be. It rolls back from f4 onwards back to f4. Between f2 and f4 I can set it and it stays in place. f8 and higher and it rolls back to f4 or so. Also, the lens does not focus to infinity. What am I doing wrong or is it a dud rental? Seems to render nice though...

Thanks Andrew and Shun for your replies. You saved me some money :-) Amazingly, those lenses still sell new for CAD$2,300 or more.

I have the option to buy a near-new 17-35 for about 40% of retail. I've read about this lens and seen the write-up of Bjørn Rørslett on this lens. He liked it a lot. However, I have the 14-24 2.8, 24-70 2.8 Nikon lenses so I am wondering if there is too much overlap. Although the 17-35 is shorter by about an inch compared to the 24-70, but with less range. The 14-24 is a bit of a beast and I use it only really with a tripod for landscapes and probably the 24-70 is on my camera 80% of the time. So the question is, should I buy the 17-35 and enjoy its unique properties or am I wasting money? I realize I may be asking the wrong crowd ... :-)

I upgraded the firmware and installed qDslrDashboard. Just wow! This is what wifi connectivity should have been all along. Simple to connect with wifi, no bluetooth needed and it works flawlessly. qDslrDashboard is a quite a bit of software. Now you can really truly use this camera with the remote. Just make sure you shoot RAW+JPEG because it takes a while for the RAW to be downloaded to the Android. If you shoot RAW+JPEG the software will download the JPEG. Running it on Samsung Tab s2 and a Huawei Y9 (2019). Just perfect :)

Thanks for testing and reporting Illka. Does it transfer RAW or just JPEG?

I bought the D850 a year ago ... it's going to have to stick it out for a while :) (i.e. changing systems is a no-no for a long time) I have the same problem as everyone else. "What lenses do I take traveling?" In November I took the 24-70 and the 105. The 105 was never mounted in the month I was in Chiang Mai. Same with Hawaii last week; I didn't even bother with a second lens. Can someone please make a 14-200 mm 1.4f lens that is light, waterproof, sharp end-to-end .... oh, and cheap :) I was hoping a 24-70 VR would be better ... hmpf..

I was tempted by the 24-70 VR 2.8. I have a 24-70 non-VR which is a great lens. Curiously, on DXO, the old one scores better.

No, only JPEG. SnapBridge is a terrible implementation. I played with it for a bit on my D850 and then shut wifi and BlueTooth off for good to reduce the constant battery drain, even with the supposed "light" BlueTooth implementation used. I absolutely LOVE the D850 for all it can do, the massive latitude you have with exposure, AF, photo rendering etc. It's a beast of a camera with very refined features but the way they try to offload pics to other devices is just terrible IMHO. A firmware update to something more humane would be very welcome for all models, not just the Z series.

Since I had a D850, the thing that drove me nuts was the battery drain, even when the camera was not used. I discovered that even with airplane mode "On", Bluetooth would leak power. To turn it off for good, you need to turn the airplane mode off, engage the wifi, engage the Bluetooth. Then turn off Bluetooth, then turn off wifi, then turn airplane mode it "On". If you follow that sequence, things will be off. Wifi is stupid on the D850, embarrassingly so. It doesn't answer your issues but shows how poorly this is implemented.

Nikon didn't do a good job of wireless anything as far as I am concerned. If you leave the Airplane mode "off", the camera will likely look for wifi and bluetooth signals. At least when it is turned on initially. If you really want to turn bluetooth off, you have to turn wifi on, airplane mode off, then go to the bluetooth settings and disable it and THEN turn off the wifi. I was able to make an ez Share wifi SD card work with the D850. The EyeFi is worthless. But the ez Share is not fast enough in terms of write speed. So I dropped all of those avenues and am now not even bothering with Snap or wifi.

Hi Erik, I think we discussed that earlier in this thread; Adobe discontinued the use of maps for stand-alone and older versions. Geosetter does a better job anyways. Also, Irfanview works well. If the lat/lon data is in the EXIF, Irfanview has a link to display the picture on Google maps and Google earth.

I went for a bit of a walkabout. Blame the jet-lag :-) I used ViewNX to look at the location data and it's quite accurate, although someone earlier mentioned the lat/lon was cut off in LR. It's all there, LR just truncates it a bit. Latitude: N 49d 17m 48.80s Longitude: W 123d 7m 56.41s Altitude: 2.00m Altitude Reference: Sea level Heading: 151.50 (M) Map Datum: WGS84

Geosetter will actually write the lat/lon into the raw files as well if you want!

Not a problem. Have been working with Geosetter for the last few hours. It is far superior than any other option I'd ever heard about. I love it.

Boy am I ever glad Adobe discontinued support for maps in Lightroom. I started looking around for a better option and found a German product called GeoSetter (Description - GeoSetter) what a great tool for exactly this process. This will even update XMP files with lat/lon if you drag the photo to the right spot etc. Loads of options; I am just touching the surface but this is way better than what I've seen before. Freeware to boot but they accept donations.