todd_b1

<p>Hi Mike,<br>

Yes absolutely! A version that support iOS5.1+ should be available within two weeks. (I had no idea there were so many people that wanted to stay at iOS5). <br>

Best,<br>

Todd</p>

<p>I'm jealous for the Hassleblad! Let me know how it goes with the app, looking for feedback to improve it.<br>

(NEWS: There's a new 1.1 version out, if anyone has previously downloaded you should get notification to upgrade. It adds Twitter (someone asked for this) and a few other things, as well as an important fix.)</p>

<p>Hi,<br /><br />The new version, 1.1, is now on the App Store:<br /><br />FIX: Important! Fixes the "stuck 1" issue<br />NEW: Rearrange tasks within a recipe<br />NEW: Share recipes with Twitter<br />NEW: The keyboard gets out of your way when adding tasks<br /><br /><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864" target="_blank">https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864</a><br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Todd<br /><br />Planned for 1.2:<br />------------------<br />NEW: Support for iOS 5.1+<br />NEW: Ability to export/import entire library</p>

<p>I usually Google and check forums to find some people that have tried the combination I am thinking about to see how it went, their observations, etc. I probably would use MDC as a starting point if I was using a strange film/developer combination where I couldn't find any other information.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Lex. Here is the full post!<br>

Hi,<br />I finished an iPhone app that works as a development timer, just for fun, I couldn't find anything with a good interval timer to keep track of agitation. It's free, you can mail development recipes and post them to Facebook. <br /><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864?mt=8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864?mt=8</a><br />Happy to make changes and improvements if it's of use to anyone.<br />Todd</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Let me know if I should remove this, I don't want to double post! I posted something in "Film and Processing" but actually I meant to post it here in "B&W Photo - Film and Processing".<br>

http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00bEob<br>

Todd</p>

<p>Hi Ben,<br>

Thank for this!<br>

Massive Dev was $7.99 and I just couldn't bring myself to buy it :). I only really have the screenshots to go by. I wanted to do something that would be free and have as simple an interface as possible, a bit of a different aesthetic. <br>

Specifically on interval timer I wanted something where there was an overall time for a step, but a second, visual indication of the interval within that step such that from the other side of my sink I could get a visual idea of how far things were, not have to try to read the numbers, in my head I had a round pie-chart progress indicator in mind, not a linear indicator.<br>

I don't want to go compare too closely to Massive Dev, it's not a competition :), but I didn't need to see the progress of all steps on a single screen, I was only concerned with seeing status for the given step because I know if I'm on Step B, that Step A is done and Step C is next.<br>

There's a light meter app that I love to use which has a great aesthetic, it looks like an actual light meter, so I wanted to make something that looked like a timer with a bit of a retro look. So this is a little different aesthetically.<br>

Finally I share some of the recipes with my friends so I thought integration with Facebook would be nice in addition to being able to mail a recipe to someone.<br>

Sorry for the long answer!<br>

Todd</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I don't see a forum that looks like a good fit for tools that support film processing, but I think this is relevant to this group. I finished an iPhone app that works as a development timer, just for fun, I couldn't find anything with a good interval timer to keep track of agitation. It's free, you can mail development recipes and post them to Facebook. <br>

<a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864?mt=8">https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864?mt=8</a><br>

Happy to make changes and improvements if it's of use to anyone.<br>

Todd</p>

<p>Thanks James. It was as simple as that! THANK YOU!</p>

<p>Hi Dan, I double checked and everything is off (unsharp mask, color restoration, dust removal). Hmm.</p>

<p>Sorry, I can't seem to edit the original post. When the photos are oriented 180 deg on the scanner the problem is at the "other side" of the images. At first I thought this was specific to the content of the photo but apparently not.<br /> <img src="http://i.imgur.com/J25MD.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="521" /><br>

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/y1tPp.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="470" /></p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I am getting consistent problems with the top and or bottom of these old images. Any idea why or what I can do to address it?<br>

Many Thanks,<br /> Todd<br /> EPSON Perfection V500 Photo<br /> EPSON Scan software, default settings<br>

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/Hm9o8.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="515" /><br>

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/k5JFQ.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="473" /></p>

<p>Your replies have made my day :). I've stuck to Rodinal to try to take one element out of the equation. Ironically it was suggested to me for push processing (first time pushing Tri-X to 1600). I love grain and contrast but here I was going for more natural midtones, I will experiment with one of the developers you mention. Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am an amateur, sorry if this is extremely basic, would like to learn from recent experience photographing a performance. I wasn't quite sure how to approach it (exposure), this is fairly representative. Very dark room, very bright spots on the choir, very dark dress on conductor. I pushed Tri-X to 1600 and was at f/2 or f/2.8. Alas I should have taken notes. Somewhere in there I might have had the chance for something nice. What is a good exposure strategy for this type of situation? (Rodinal 1+50 for 20 min)<br>

Any feedback greatly appreciated.<br>

TB</p>

<div></div>

Many thanks, great feedback.

Thanks, I did indeed use the magnifier,

it looked good. The DOF surprises me

because I stopped it way down, or so I

thought.

<p>Thanks Larry. I think the whole roll is pretty much out of focus and soft. In this example the word OPEN is (to me) "almost" in focus. This is an old TLR that has not been serviced, would it be safe to assume this accounts for the focus and softness (or more likely me just not using the camera correctly). I don't see any of this with my 35mm. Really just an old camera and not exposure or my processing?</p><div></div>

<p>Hi,<br>

I don't know if "washed out" is particularly descriptive, but this is a representative photo from a roll I just processed. I was trying out a new (old) camera, it looks really soft, washed out, low contrast. Low contrast, washed out -- that's not the camera. It was a bright sunny day. Is it simply a matter of bad exposure? My "processing hygiene" is good. This is 120 Trix in Rodinal 1+25 for 7 minutes.<br>

Many Thanks,<br>

Todd</p>

<div></div>

<p>Many thanks all! Fixer is fresh but when I tested it for times (previous roll last week) this was at room temperature (much warmer) so that could be part. I will call it test fixer at the temperature you will be working (duh) and don't use TMAX that has stood mostly empty for a long time. (Clay, 35mm and Leica M3).</p>

<p>Just processed a roll of Tri-X in TMAX developer, 1:7 for 9 minutes at 20 deg C. This time and dilution is something that I normally use. There were only a few ounces left in a bottle that had stood for maybe 2 months. Could this account for something?<br>

<br />This is an example image, some are better, some are much worse, the center portion of the negatives appears almost fogged.<br>

<br />What happened?</p>

<p>Many Thanks,</p>

<p>Todd</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

<br />I wanted to post this in case it will be useful to someone (it took me forever to figure out just how to open it)! This is all from surfing the web, nothing original!<br>

OPEN<br>

To open the CHICO you lift up the lead for the positive (+) terminal of the battery and you will see a small hexagonal screw (it's not a nut, it's a screw). Unscrew this using a small needle-nose pliers. The guts of the beast then pull straight out.<br>

CLEAN<br>

The contacts are silver and are probably all tarnished. Use a pencil eraser to clean them. Also the flash input, the one that has a tip in the middle. Use an eraser and just push it in so the tip goes into the eraser and rotate. Clean the contacts in the bulb holder as well.<br>

<br />CABLE<br>

Obviously check that the cable works. I used a multimeter but be inventive.<br>

CAPACITOR<br>

If all else fails and cleaning did not fix it, change the capacitor. This is what fixed it for me. The original capacitor is 100µF 25V, at Radio Shack they had 100µF 35V (note this is much smaller than the original). It's a bit of pain to remove the bad capacitor and solder in the new one.<br>

It works!<br>

Cheers.</p><div></div>

John,

 

The Leica Manual is fantastic!

 

I can't get the CHICO to fire, have checked everything I can check without taking the unit apart (I see the hex screw under

the positive battery terminal but have no way to unscrew it). Cleaned to the extent I could, voltage on battery is OK. Cable

checks out OK with a multimeter. I tried a few bulbs. Is there any way to check what comes out of the socket on the back

of the M3? If I use a multimeter on the bulb socket what should I check for?

 

One other thing that is strange, the shoe extender doesn't fit. The case says Chico and it looks like a Chico, but the

adaptor doesn't fit. See photo.

 

Any help or advice appreciated!

 

Todd

Perfect, many thanks!

Hi,

 

I have the little Chico flash, anyone have instruction sheet? A bit embarrassed to ask, it is very very simple but there are two cable inputs,

the unit itself goes directly into the outlet on the back of the camera (M3) but then there is an additional input on the upper part of the unit

and a cable. Should be simple but I'm missing it. Also, I read there is a test circuit but not sure how to use it.

 

In ignorance, thanks!

 

Todd