todd_b1
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Posts posted by todd_b1
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<p>I am going to feel stupid here...<br>
What is the purpose for the hinge in the lens cap for TLR camera? I have the Minolta Autocord and just came across an original lens cap. I use one of the inexpensive plastic lens caps. Why does the original one fold? To cover one lens and leave the other open? To fold and thus be smaller?<br>
I feel a "d'oh" coming in...</p>
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<p>Many thanks, Luis, great to hear! I'm glad you got it working in the end. I never was able to determine why some people were having problems. :(. I am finishing a new version that cleans up some things and adds a "darkroom mode" (I don't know if you are doing any printing). If you would be willing to play with new versions before they make it into the store just let me know and I can add you as a tester.<br>
Next up is a way to do backup, to prevent exactly what you ran into. If you get the chance could you send me a message? I am thinking either iCloud, Dropbox, or simple email. Would any of these work for you? Any other ideas?</p>
<p>Todd</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Thanks MP. Frustrating when one time it works and another time it doesn't. I think my advice to people having trouble will just be to install again. Cheers!</p>
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<p>Many thanks Marcelo, this is great! Can I ask a follow-up question? If you delete the app and then install it again does it still hang when activating voice control (i.e. can it be reproduced)? I am tracking down a physical iPhone 4 (my son has one), in theory there shouldn't be a problem. Thank you very much for the detailed information, I am working to emulate the exact build and hardware. THANK YOU.</p>
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<p>Thanks, Jose, I really appreciate your help. I am "glad" you had a problem with voice so that I can look into it. </p>
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<p>Hi,<br /><br />I have a development timer app for iOS on the App Store, it has been there for some time (it's free). I just released a completely new version and, unfortunately, am hearing from a lot of people that the app crashes when they first open it. I can't reproduce this, I have really tried.<br>
I'm hoping to find someone to help debug. It would involve some back-and-forth to try new versions and send some files from the iPhone. It's a little bit of a pain.<br>
If interested please let me know, I'd really appreciate it and you would be helping a broader user community. The only prerequisite is that the app crashes for you when you try to install it!<br /><br />If interested this is the link to download it on the App Store. Normally I hope there is no problem, but in this case I hope it crashes for you so I can fix it for others.<br /><br /><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!-film-development/id568421864?mt=8" target="_blank">https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/deve...568421864?mt=8</a><br /><br />Todd</p>
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<p>Super! Thanks so much!!</p>
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<p>Hi Ellis, on the light table I think the densities look OK, there is some detail there. That said I am usually completely wrong. I'll scan the contact sheet when I can, my scanner can handle that (just not negatives). Massive overexposure would break out of the frame like that?</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I am noticing that there is some "bleeding" on several of my negatives. Please take a look at the attached image.<br>
-- The negative densities are OK. I don't know why these look all blown out, so please try to ignore that. (This was scanned on a plain-jane scanner with sleeved negatives, I just wanted to make sure I captured the defect).<br>
-- I've boxed in three areas where you can see the image bleeding outside of the frame: top of both frames bleeding off the top (and off to the right for the second image). Upper left of second frame bleeding out.<br>
Is this my processing?<br>
Many Thanks!<br>
Todd<br>
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/PlSq4L5l.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="283" /></p>
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<p>Thanks Mike, sorry about that, not sure what the problem was. If still interested to test can you try again? Best!</p>
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<p>Thanks Mike! I sent a message through the board with instructions, let me know if you didn't get it!<br>
If anyone would like to help test please let me know! I'd really appreciate it!<br>
Todd</p>
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<p>Hi Mike,<br>
Ug, very sorry to hear that you are having a problem. There shouldn't be any issue with iOS7. Can you delete and re-install the app? I'm sure it will work (the recipes will get deleted, so be sure to mail backups if you want to save them).<br>
However... I have just finished an all-new version for iOS7. There is iCloud support so you can store recipes in the cloud and sync between devices, there is voice control so you can go to the next step just by saying "NEXT" and, last but not least, the whole process of creating and updating recipes has been updated. I haven't released it yet, I am finishing up testing. Would you be interested to give it a try and let me know what you think?<br>
Todd</p>
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<p>PPS -- New version 1.3 is out with a few tweak and fixed. For a new feature you can import recipes directly from FilmDev.org. (I mentioned this above).<br>
Todd</p>
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<p>Hi All,<br>
A new version (1.3) is out. There are a few tweaks (you can double tap to go to the next step, the alarm is shorter, an issue where the alarm would go off if you went back a step is fixed). There is a new feature as well: you can import recipes from FilmDev.org. (FilmDev.org is a big repository of film recipes that are linked to their Flickr images).<br>
Todd</p>
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<p>(Great link Peter!)<br>
I did not use the Acufine after all because it is (as I understand it) for a much higher exposure index. So I did 1+75 Rodinal for 10 minutes, as per my early post. I didn't know what to expect.</p>
<p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/AgVILnzl.png" alt="" width="640" height="427" /></p>
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<p>Jose, my tank is only about 500ml or so for two rolls (I could be wrong!) this would have meant ~600ml of developer+water. For the next roll from the set I'm going to try the Acufine -10%. Will post to show how it compares.<br>
Peter, I'd never even heard of scanning fluid before, Google shows some interesting things. Now I have even more to think about!</p>
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<p>Many thanks Lex (the edges are definitely scanning, I have a problem with this). Here is a "non-snow" image from the same roll. I'm really happy with the way these turned out (the helmet not sure what I can/could do). I'm tempted to try the Acufine at minus 10%, as well as the Rodinal 1+100 to compare, I have four more rolls to go. Would you suggest any adjustment for 120 or am I just splitting hairs?<br /> <img src="http://i.imgur.com/UXTikVgl.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="427" /></p>
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<p>I was about to try 1+100 when I realized my tank wouldn't be big enough for two rolls with the minimal amount of Rodinal, so I tried "bottle time" for Rodinal and reduced by 10%. This worked out to 1+50 for 12 minutes. I am contemplating the results. (Two rolls down, four to go).<br>
IMAGE 1<br>
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/i9xoeT7l.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="426" /></p>
<p>IMAGE 2<br>
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/HE3yGTgl.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="426" /></p>
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<p>I found this:<br>
http://forum.mflenses.com/1979-pop-photo-rodinal-article-t37502.html<br>
Very cool classic article from 1979 with some examples and times. From this article 1+75 for 9-10 minutes is recommended.<br>
"To get the longest tonal scale in this backlighted outdoor situation, Johnson gave about one f-stop overexposure, then cut development time back to only 9 minutes in Rodinal diluted 1+75. Although a 1+100 solution gives even more highlight development, its middle-tone and shadow detail is far too flat for high speed [Trix] film. 1+75 is an advisable limit"<br>
My bottle says 14 mins at 1+50. Boy I'm about to mess things up!</p>
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<p>@John: I tried to meter off my subject (e.g. person) close-up and use that, or something more generic and compensate 1.5-2 stops. I don't have a meter on my camera so it's always a bit of guesswork, but I tried to compensate by overexposure and liberally bracketed because I don't know the next time I'll be at 10,000 feet :)<br>
@peter: Thanks! Any suggestion for Rodinal solution?</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
Forgive me if this is a really ignorant question, or worded poorly, but here I go.<br>
I am back from shooting a lot of pictures in the snow, sometimes mixed on the same roll with "non-snow" pictures. Are there any development considerations that will give optimal results with snow?<br>
I have been using Rodinal and TriX almost exclusively to "keep these variables constant" and work on exposure fundamentals. With Diafine use when temperatures get really hard to control.<br>
I accidentally ordered Acufine instead of Diafine (or maybe I was shipped the wrong thing), so I have that sitting in a drawer.<br>
For pictures shot in the snow is there a recommended Rodinal dilution or time? A very weak Rodinal?<br>
Many thanks,<br>
Todd</p>
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iOS 5 version is now available (if interested)! Some other goodies as well.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/develop!/id568421864
http://appstore.com/bigredpepper/develop
Todd
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PS-- New version 1.2 is out with support for iOS 5 and some other goodies.
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<p>Hi Doug,<br>
Many thanks for downloading my app and giving it a try!<br>
My main goal was to build something that I could use to keep track of my recipes (most of which I've found on sites and in discussions) and then be able to mail them to some friends of mine. Some folks asked for options for FaceBook and Twitter (no judgement!) which were easy to add.<br>
For the next version (1.2, I actually just submitted a minor version 1.1.1) there will be integration with filmdev.org -- this is an awesome site with thousand of recipes tied to the photos on Flickr where the recipe was used. This is really useful for me because the recipe is "real" and I can even ask questions. You'll be able to import a recipe directly. Hopefully this is useful.<br>
Duplicate existing recipe -- consider it done for next version!<br>
Please keep the feedback coming!<br>
Todd</p>
Folding TLR lens cap -- why does it fold?
in Medium Format
Posted