paul_c8

<p>Ive been searching the net for a few days with no luck, I recently bought a Broncolor Verso A2 Pack and 3 battery docks for it, the docks are not keeping full charge so Im looking at getting new batteries. </p> <p>I have had a quote which isn't the worse but the postage on these things will cost a bomb due to there weight, I know you can repack Broncolor Mobil batteries yourself as its juts a little scooter battery but was wondering if anyone on here had or knows of anyone who has repacked a Verso dock themselves as it would be so much cheaper. <br> Thanks </p>

<p>Hi Guys thansk so much for the response, I make my living from commercial/Advertising photography so even if the machine only made me a couple hundred bucks a month extra id be happy with that, I should of made that more clear. I know prob enough people in my city that I could prob break even (hopefully) with this machine and thats without marketing it. <br> The resurgence I talk about is maybe not a resurgence but younger people taking up what older people are maybe leaving behind, I understand big places are shutting down and its happened here in Australia but you can always find the old independent photograph store processing c-41 and a few other new companies hoping up along the way. <br> I just basically needed to know how much chemicals the machine takes, how long it lasts and whats the minimum rolls I would have to put through the machine to keep the chemicals at there best. <br> I have space for the machine and it comes with drying racks clips and everything you would need to use it and the person seeing it was keeping the waste and it wasn't plumbed in and it would get collected every other week by professionals. </p>

<p>So I have always shot film and developed my own B&W, I have seen a resurgence of people shooting colour neg over the last couple of years myself included.<br> A Noritsu QSF-v30SM has just come up for sale and Im thinking of buying it as there is room in my photography studio, I would like to know a few things as I'm starting off completely blind with this.</p> <ol> <li>What is that machine like ?</li> <li>Can i develop 120/220 as well as 35mm ?</li> <li>How many rolls of film would i have to put through it a day/week ?</li> <li>What chemicals are best ?</li> <li>How much are the chemicals ?</li> <li>What volume of chemicals would a machine like this use ? </li> </ol> <p>Any help would be amazing. </p> <p>Cheers </p>

Yep battery is fine and I tried the camera with a cartridge I have already used and fired it with no luck shutter speeds seem to work just the shutter seems stuck. Thanks for your help.

<p>Hi guys I've been using a fair bit of 110 lately as I have my grandmas old camera i love the look i was getting after scans so thought id look into a better 110 camera i decided to buy a rollei a110. </p> <p>It rocked up today its very clean but the shutter doesn't move ? i shown a light into the front of the camera and something moves across when I press the shutter but what ever is behind thats isn't moving. </p> <p>Any help would be great or if anyones knows how to take them apart ill give that a go just need a diagram </p> <p>Thanks </p>

<p>So I jumped on the Contax t2 bandwagon by selling a few other film camera I was not using that often, I paid a fair price but not over the top Id say average for it but she's in great condition. <br> So turns out I got the camera was amazed by how clean it was and so on, I gave it the once over cleaned the optics, eye piece and gave it a brand new battery. So turns out having a little play with the camera and reading the manual online everything seemed hunky dory half press the shutter little click to focus and keep pressing and fire. <br> So off I went on a little trip taking the t2 with me, from day one I seemed to have issues with it not focusing correctly lots of red arrows facing either way on AF and infinity in all conditions but mostly sunny outside.<br> Not to my surprise I got the film back and there were about 6 sharp shots all the rest completely out of focus not even soft just a mess. <br> I fire the camera without film inside and I seem to get the camera to auto focus and green lights than when i have film in the camera. <br> The focus wheel seems fine as the manual focus seems to work fine but I was to take pictures more that 5m away. <br> Does anyone else get the same issue or am in not being patient enough ? As with half pressing i find myself taking to many pics without the camera engaging. <br> Any help would be great </p>

<p>So I just dug out the phase one p25 back to use on a food shoot with my flex body, I just got some new batteries and new lead sent to me and everything is working. </p> <p>I am just curious whats the newest firmware update for this back ? The back I have has 3.3.4.<br> I can't find it on the phase one website it says the page is unavailable and then the page I have found mentioned everything from p20 p25+ but no p25 does anyone know the reason for this ? <br> Any help would be great </p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi Guys thanks for all the feedback, I think it kinda went off topic a little Im looking at buying film not a new developer I have 1.5 litres of the original stuff, as mentioned I don't mind grain and usually use hp5+ and fp4 35mm. <br> I did shoot a roll of neopan 400 2 months ago and forgot I shot it at 250 and developed it for box speed and the results came out great. I was just wondering if Ordinal is good with Tri-x. TMax, delta and any other films that are 400. <br> I have always wanted to try PanF but I was giving 2 rolls a while back and nothing came out i have heard its a very tricky film to keep if your not going to shoot it or develop it straight away but to be honest would like something a bit faster 100-400 I've just never tried the tax trip-x or delta films. also does anyone shoot Neopan acros 100 in rodinal ? <br> Im using a canoscan fs4000u for scanning which I'm ok with and if there are some negs i really want scanned i pay for real wet mounted drum scans.</p>

<p>My film stocks are coming to an end and I am just about to do an order from BH Photo (Im based in Australia) its the cheapest place to get stuff (not just film) and gets here within 3 days.<br> I only have Agfa Rodinal (Original) as it keeps so well and I live in a very small unit so having a bottle I can keep in the cupboard for ages even when open is a bonus, I do like grain and am mostly developing my own film 35mm and 120 and scanning it. <br> Anyways I have been mainly an Ilford user over the last few years but am willing to try different films, I have just been looking around google and most of the threads come back to this site.<br> I have been googling TMax Tri-X, Ilford Delta, and Neopan Acros in Rodinal and he majority of the threads or reply have been negative saying don't use it use this and that and its kinda putting me off my ordering.<br> I know i shouldn't listen to what the internet has to say to seriously as its everyones own opinion, but I am throwing this out there to hear the pro's and con's with this developer with these films. </p>

<p>Its my dads birthday coming up and I want to buy him a scanner new or used but I would like people recommendations on what I should look for. <br> In an idea world id like to buy him a flex tight but he's not getting one before me and i can't afford one well I can't justify it anyways. <br> I myself use a Canoscan fs4000u and am pretty happy with how it goes, I always see people talking about the epson v700/v750 are they any good and are they as good as my own fs4000u ? <br> I would love to get him something really good as he just wants to archive all his old negs/slides (there is a darkroom full) since he has now retired. <br> Scanners I have seen around but never looked into are plus tech and Pacific image any help would be great I guess the budget is anything up to epson v750 prices, and I am also keep to hear about any scanners that are better than these but not made anymore like the coolscan series. <br> One last thing Im not sure how he will go for software I'm guessing vuescan as its easy and he went out today and bought himself a new mac which is running yosimite which is very new probably to new for silverfast.</p>

<p>Hi guys thanks for all the feed back usually my agitation in rodinal is constant for the first 30 seconds and every minute usually about 3 agitations nice slow full 180 turn and back I was doing 4 but thought id slow things down a bit. <br> I usually shoot my hp5 at 320 and I was going to with this but it was very sunny on the first day and and the next morning overcast so I just kept shooting I also usually shoot a 3rd over exposed when shooting on my Canon eos 1v. <br> Ive been flat out assisting this week so am still meaning to get a picture up to show, nothing great just thought id share since I was surprised how they turned out. </p>

<p>I have always been a Ilford hp5+ and fp4 users, recently I ran out and the only roll of film I had for a day away camping was Fuji Neopan 400 after getting home and shooting in all kinda of light shade, bright sun and overcast I rated the film at 250iso and totally forgot and proceeded to developed it at box speed.<br> I was feeling gutted and just had to wait for the results, after the wash I looked at the negs and they were not to bad at all, but once I scanned them an adjusted the levels hardly at all I was super surprised on how good they have actually turned out and I have no idea why. <br> How far off was my dev and have I just got lucky ? dev'd in Rodinal 1:50 <br> (Ill get a picture up shortly I can't seem to find the scans on my comp)</p>

<p>Thanks Chris, Ill stick with my Rodinal 490ml and 10ml of developer. <br> Just coming across the 1+50 and then being told its different to 1:50 and then seeing the massive dev chart using both on the same thing totally threw me. <br> I developed my negs today, water temp is currently coming out of the tap at 21c so I went with 10:45mins for my fp4+ @80 iso and they look good and scan good. </p>

<p>Ok. so I was just looking at The Massive Dev chart app on my phone, as it shows when you look up a recipe it shows 1+50 dilution if anyone has this app click on the 1+50 and it takes you through you to another page<br> Volume 500ml<br> Dilution 1+50<br> Final Mix 500ml = 10 +490ml so who's right and wrong guys ? when the actual app is mixing both of them up.</p>

<p>So the real world doesn't factor in to the b&w world ? <br> surly its easier to say yes 1+50 or no it should be 1:50 when developing, ill come back tomorrow hopefully there a proper answer for me </p>

<p>Sorry for asking this and I hope I have been correct for the last 2 years, but I'm after a time for a roll of 35mm Ilford fp4+ that I rated @ 80 and my developer is Rodinal (the original stuff) <br> Anyways I came across a few times 15 mins same as box speed, 13 mins, 10 mins and 9 mins ?<br> One of the guys was explaining how 1+50 means 500ml water + 10ml of Developer, now I always thought it was 490ml of water and 10ml developer making up a total of 500ml.<br> If anyone can recommend a time for my film it was shot indoors quite flat light on a tripod that would be great but also have i been developing correctly for the past 2 years or have i been getting my ratios wrong ?</p>

<p>Just saw this film and was curious to see if anyone has ever used it ? <br> Im not sure if its super new but the specs i saw said develop in Kodak d-96 ? do they mean 76 ? also it mentioned being used and balanced for tungsten light but its black and white ? so I'm confused. </p>

<p>Just curious if this is a possible at all and were there ever any plates made ? I have access to a phase one p25+ and just bought the mamiya afd so that would be a massive bonus </p>

<p>Im in the market for a new (secondhand) medium format camera and have been looking at the AFD series I saw the AFD with 80mm seems quite cheap but have seen there are also AFDII and AFDIII's. <br> Just curious to know what are the differences between the 3 cameras and what is the auto focus like compared to say a Canon 5dmk2 which was pretty average when using lenses like the 50mm 1.2. <br> Also while on the question about Mamiya I was curious to know what the quality of the lenses are like ? namely the 80mm 2.8 and the 150mm 3.5. <br> Any problems to look out for when buying these cameras ?<br> Im also looking at mamiya 6 and 7's but the auto focus has me looking towards the add and thats why ill prob get rid of my Bronica etrsi and keep my manual focus 35mm cameras</p>

<p>Import duties into Australia start at $1000 dollars so it is good in that respect and the postage form NY usually gets here within 3 days which is also nice. </p> <p>You are right about PanF i have had some very old rolls once before given to me by a friend and nothing came out. I do develop my own stuff and usually develop it same day it comes out the camera or within a few weeks my I use the original Agfa Rodinal which serves me well and last a lifetime (I am a lover of grain) its more the colour neg I am worried about paying so much for really almost double here in Australia and I was unsure about film coming from Asia being the real deal or the conditions its been in as its so humid and hot there </p>

<p>Sorry guys i know this must get asked so much but times are changing and prices are changing, Im based in Australia and film is so expensive here I went to buy some instant film fp-100c and its like $21aud a pack and I wanted to buy bulk and the guy said he can do it for $16 which is still almost double what BH sell it for. <br> Anyways that was just to give you an idea of what its like here, I'm in the market for some new 35mm film portra all speeds, some balck and white I usually use fp4 and hp5 may try some pan f and some delta 3200 just to have in the kit. <br> Ive been looking in the UK still expensive but I have family there so shipping could be cheaper or free when they visit, Im currently looking at BH, Adorama and Freestyle but are there any other places I should be looking ? The postage is a killer ut it still works out to be cheaper. </p>

<p>Sorry about the title i tried to change it but couldn't i did mean ni-mh but had ni-cd in my mind for some reason. I did have a look at trying to take the case apart with no luck I'm surprised there not a website or youtube clip showing it with a canon as they are a very popular camera. I wish someone or canon would also update the software so it could be used on a Mac. </p>

<p>My ni-cd battery has come to an end in my 1v and I'm currently using AA batteries but would like to get another Ni-Cd without paying the world for one, I shoot a lot of surfing so the 10fps can be a blessing sometimes or 7 for some other stuff. <br> Can you get old batteries re-packed ? or has anyone got experience with after market ones and if so can they point me in the right direction ? They are very few places here in Australia can look if any.</p>

<p>I have a beginner question which makes me feel stupid even thou I have been shooting for over 10 years and the majority of it being film. <br> I have just bought myself a light meter and Sekonic L-758d I know how they work as I have used them with flash for about 3 years but when it comes to ambient I always get confused so don't use it and just go with what I know, which has worked so far. <br> I just want to step my game up a bit and nail exposures as I want to get perfect scans and get my durst enlarger back up and running.<br> I get reflective and Incident readings but just need to know what exactly how the meter reads and what I am getting, reflective light is whats coming off the subject and what the meter picks up and incident is what light is falling onto the subject.<br> If I set my camera up to spot meter and am in the snow my meter wants to make everything grey and if I take a incident reading i will get an exposure that will make the snow white but is this the same for all subject (Im feeling really stupid right now by the way)<br> I was indoors today in the shade looking at a white wall and I thought id try it out (I don't have a digital camera so I'm just going off readings) When metering with my canon eos1v and 50mm 1.4 at 400iso I was getting a reading of: <strong>1/20 f5.6</strong> <br> With the spot meter on the Sekonic I was getting a reading of <strong>1/15 f5.6</strong><br> and the incident reading was <strong>1/4 f5.6</strong> <br> So are incident readings always 2 stops more that spot meter readings ? as if you shot everything 2 stops over what your in camera meter was telling you it would all look wack surly especially when shooting slide film which I use to shoot and get published for years and am back shooting again. </p> <p>I think I'm over thinking things maybe ? </p>

<p>Hi guys yeah its still doing it but i managed to pull most of it out and then in PS try some more. I under stand everything about setting it up and what not and do it how it should be done and as mentioned the generic colour vender is best I don't mid then scanning a little flat sometimes as i can also do that with levels. </p> <p>I do shoot mostly slide thou I looked at buying a new scanner and was surprised to find the fs4000u seems to be better than the epson v700/750 as its a dedicated neg scanner not a flatbed. </p>