daniel_johnson6

Hi all, After many years of use, I finally need to retire my Nikon 18-200 3.5-5.6. It's a DX lens, and I've now moved entirely to FX, plus the poor thing is just worn out. It looks like I have two current options for an FX replacement: Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR or Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD Any advice on which one? I realize that it's unlikely anyone owns both lenses, but I'd be interested in any opinions about either lens. The difference in the f5.6 to f/6.3 isn't really a deal breaker for me with this lens. I do see that the Nikon model is quite a bit heavier and has a larger 77mm front element. The Nikon is also quite a bit more expensive.

Hi all, I have a Lightroom catalog of over 300,000 images. The files themselves are external drives; the preview files are on the main internal drive with the OS. I'm preparing to upgrade the internal OS drive to a SSD, and then reinstall all my software, including Lightroom. I'd like to be able to migrate my preview files so that Lightroom doesn't have to re-build them all from scratch. The previews folder is about 100 GB. What's the best way to migrate the previews to the new drive and have the new install of Lightroom find them? Thanks!

OK, thanks for all the replies.

There is a lock, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. With the lock activated, none of the controls work. With the lock off, everything works except the shutter button. I've gone through the camera and grip manuals, and looked through the menu, but I can't find anything there. I've removed the grip and reinstalled it a few times, still nothing. I haven't gone so far as to clean the electrical contacts; that seemed overkill since it was brand new. Kind of at a loss here.

Hi all, I recently acquired a new D750 and MB-D16 grip. These were both brand new. I'm having trouble with the MB-D16, however, as the shutter button on it doesn't seem to do anything. The multi-selector functions properly, as do the command and sub-command dials. But the shutter button doesn't take pictures, or focus, or wake up the camera. What am I missing? Thanks.

Hi Shun, thanks for putting this up. I'm considering a D850 in the near future, but I'm curious about the weather sealing and overall durability of the camera body. My work requires a high (22+) megapixel count, and my trusty D3X is still the only Nikon camera that gives me that resolution inside a flagship-style body. The D850 certainly meets my megapixel requirements, but I'm a little concerned about the build quality. What are your impressions on that front?

Hi, I've developed a problem with my Mamiya 645 150mm 3.5 AF lens. The aperture seems to be stuck at a slightly stopped down (f/4?) position. The depth of field preview doesn't work, in fact, it makes a noise (similar to how normal AF sounds on this camera) when you try. Any thoughts on what is causing this and how I can fix it? Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I absolutely agree that there is more to a quality scan than just the resolution numbers, I was just trying to get a feel for what I could expect. Right now I don't currently have a way to digitize MF film and I'm trying to find an affordable but still quality option. What I really need is a Coolscan 9000 but those are a great deal pricier.

Hi, I've tried looking for the answer to this but can't find it... I would like to know what image dimensions (pixels x pixels) the Epson v600 scanner delivers when scanning 6x4.5 medium format film, assuming that the highest quality settings are used. Thanks!

Lightroom will get the job done quickly.

Thanks for the replies. I have tried cleaning it with alcohol in the past but maybe I should give it another try. Replacing the back makes a lot of sense, but unfortunately the problem is also present on the front of my cameras as well. :-(

Hi all, I have two F100s that I enjoy using. Unfortunately, the rubber grip material has begun to fail on both cameras. The material has become kind of "sticky" for lack of a better word. Any advice on how I can stop this and remove the sticky feel? Has anyone else had this problem?

Just kind of kidding, although if there were a year for Nikon to bring out an F7, it seems like this would be it. I think it could be a great camera, with the current autofocusing system, modern batteries, etc... I know I would like one! And I could load it up with some of that new Ektachrome... Would you be interested in a new film Nikon? Why? Why not?

I believe Nikon Scan "shares" the VueScan drivers.

Yes, I have Nikon Scan 4.0.3 running on Windows 7 and Windows 10. It takes a little work to get it running on the 64 bit versions, but it's doable. I've always had good success with the Nikon Scan software, and it's pretty easy to use.

I've used a D3x for years and it's a terrific camera. The clients I work with require very high resolution images and if I had purchased a different camera back then, I surely would have had to replace it by now. As it stands, my D3x still goes to work every day :) Remember too, that it's still the only 24+ MP Nikon camera in the "flagship" body style, with all the benefits that comes with that.

<p>An F7 would excite me!</p>

<p>Ah, I didn't know that, Chuck. I only have the VR-1 version. I wonder why it was redesigned?</p>

<p>Flares when shooting close to the sun are the Achilles heel of this lens. It's a great lens, but you do run into this effect now and then (that's why it comes with such a big lens hood!). If the hood isn't enough to stop the flare, I have an assistant hold a big reflector board or other item over my camera to shade the lens.</p>

<p>Yes, try waiting until the you have the battery installed. Things should brighten up after that.</p>

<p>There is a Vista version of Nikon Scan 4....I use with both Vista and Windows 7.</p> <p> </p>

<p>If you're looking to try slide film, I recommend Fuji's Provia--great film, great color, great sharpness. My favorite film, and it's easy to find and easy to get processed. Good luck!</p>

<p>So, a couple of screws came loose inside my beloved 18-200 3.5-5.6. Long story short, the problem was causing the lens to flex improperly, and the delicate zoom brush has been bent/twisted beyond repair. So I'm seeking advice on where/how to obtain a fresh zoom brush. I'm not looking to send the lens to Nikon for repair, just trying to find this particular part. I'm not afraid to work on the lens myself (me and my brother already replaced the VR cable last year).<br> Optically, this lens has been an excellent copy--very sharp for this type of lens--so I'm reluctant to simply replace it for that reason (not to mention the cost of a new copy).<br> Any thoughts?</p>

<p>Provia 100</p>

<p>It's a great camera. Although most of my work is either studio or bright natural light, I do frequently run into situations where I need higher ISO and I've found that 800 is often excellent and 1600 still very good. It's a high quality machine in every respect.</p>