grey_rogacion

<p>I'd go with Stephen,"whichever was in best condition with the best price".</p>

<p>Those are dust or dirt on the negatives, it could have come from where it was processed? If your scanner is clean, then it could be dust on their work area?<br>

<br /> Even on a Noritsu, a clean negative could have all those spots when scanned to a Cd, due to dust on the machine where you enter the negatives, aside from dirt in the scanner? I had films ruined due to processing errors, chemicals, dust, before they are scanned for more dust and spots to a cd?</p>

<p>"For Programmed AE, turn the shutter speed selector dial to "PROGRAM," making sure that the lens aperture ring is set on "A." Although the aperture is selected for you automatically, the f/stop will still appear in clear, red LED's in the viewfinder." from mir.com<br /><br />since the meter would show the correct f/stop, I'd manually turn the aperture out from A to the selected aperture. Set on A, the aperture on mine is stuck at F/11 regardless where I point it(light/low), even in different shutter speeds, after a squeal repair. You can also check the shutter opening on the camera's back open, set the lens to A if it changes automatically, if not check if it is corrected when done manually................</p>

<p>This 1961 Canonet is on my buy list ever since I first read Louis post on this Canonet years back, unfortunately it's very hard to find a working one with no dents or clean glass. I think the bottom wind have a class of it's own like the Fujica 35 rangefinders, quite a unique experience and a joy to use.........again, thanks for sharing.</p>

<p>I had a couple of Petri color 35 come my way but it's too small for my big hands and I doubt repairs if ever. It's pricey for an oldie, other than that, the design of the cam is quite unique enough to start a good conversation just like the Fujica 35se. As always Rick, you take very nice pics with whatever camera you have your hands on, thanks for sharing the pics..................</p>

<p>Unfortunately chips/electronics corrode. It's hard to fix some things with electronics over 30 years of age but could be easier to find another cheap minty ae1-p.</p>

<p>loved the mirror effect on the water, amazingly a very sharp lens.........</p>

<p>Red, I have never seen a Canon t-50 but check the mirror cage for sameness with your FT. The cage, mirror are the same sizes, and when it goes up should also be the same fit size? I think the mirror cage are one and the same as with other 35mm slr's due to film size, it's a standard size but don't take my word for it? I only have gone with the AE-1 prism and the Pentax Me which fits but like Gordon, I would not be surprise if they are similar to swap, just hoping for the best..............gudluck</p>

<p>My camera repairman Bibot, replaced the prism of my Canon FTbn with a prism coming from an Canon Ae-1. I've opened an FT, FTB, and FTbn and the prism size is all the same. I had a spare prism from a Pentax Me Super and to my amazement and disbelif it fitted the Canon FT, even the bracket don't need adjustment? It just have a convex prism unlike Canon prism which is flat, maybe due to magnification, and metering. Maybe 35mm cams share the same mirror, prism, cage size due to film size but there could be exceptions..............................</p>

<p><img src="http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a574/king3sparrow/img060_zpsd3f415ef.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Canon FTbn.......50mm</p>

<p><img src="http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a574/king3sparrow/img971_zps3acddfeb.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>There's a peice of felt strip that surrounds the lens barrel inside, which makes focusing/push/pull smoother. It could have deteriorated or worn out, so as it makes a sound when there are movements.........</p>

<p>That's good news Aki, finding the problem fix and sharing it here. I also read on another repair site that it was the bottom plate cover which could have been dented just a bit that needs to be pushed back just a little on a Canon F1n. Much of this fix/tips are kept secret by camera repair men. Enjoy shooting with your cam and don't forget to share it here also..................</p>

<p>Is it a screw head knob? I think that plate under sets the curtain when you crank the shutter, and goes off quickly when you fire the shutter. I think what rubs could be the big boomerang lever that sets the plate screw head knob when you crank the shutter and release.? But if it works for you, that would be great as you already fixed your problem..........<br>

If you remove the bottom plate, crank the shutter and fire without the bottom plate, does the mirror move properly?</p>

 

<p>That rubber band or strip at the top of the mirror could be the mirror damper. It's a foam, that could have deteriorated, and gummed that could stick to the mirror when it goes up, slowing it down. There are lots of info on the mirror damper replacement, I replaced mine in an Ftb with a double sided adhesive foam tape with felt from a film canister but there are foam kits/seals available, precut...............<br /><br />Oil I used is watch oil, it's very light. I oil/re-oil only at the bottom where it's safer, using a tooth pick for a drop to oil. The main shaft bearing needs to be oiled, other than keeping the camera clean. A reliable camera repairman can do all that for you...........................</p>

<p>Nice find Alex, not everyone could be at the right time and place with a thorium lens waiting? The yellow on the thorium seems to give it a distinct look and appeal. It looks very pleasing...............giving the lens a character of it's own.</p>

<p>Awesome performer, nice to see the Canon F1 goes to work with a pretty sharp lens. Thanks for sharing, Tony.............</p>

<p>I don't have too many cams but the Ftb is my main. I like the feel, design and weight of the beast, pretty solid, and built like a tank. The AE-1p is a very capable cam but due to battery issues, the FTb's raring to go. I agree with Rick, "the pelican images shows it of very well" and the Jetty image. On my son's school programs, it's been all digital for maybe 10 years over and it's only me that dare still use film on Fd gears. Digital is fun, but it don't have the feel and control of a true Classic for me...........................thanks Tony for sharing and all of you guy's here.</p>

<p>I'm just a newbie to all this and what I think is he played with the, saturation, and chanel mixer to boost the colors halfway in-between provia or maybe velvia film effect. He did toy with the background by using the blurring tool, he's pretty good photographing in very good light also....................</p>

<p>Maybe, 10 ft at F/8 or F/11 depending on the light. 1/3 in front and 2/3 at the back would still be sharp...............</p>

<p>Definitely not, loved the sharpness-details and the shadows...........wow!</p>

<p>Good deed you do Barry, sharing and finding a good home for those cams and lenses. That Canon datelux looks minty, if the shutter is not stuck, could just need some cleaning on the terminals and fresh new bats.............</p>

<p>on minilabs, if you have them scan to a cd, they could make adjustments before burning. You can always photoshop after, to print...............</p>

<p>You can use your caustic soda to soften the black paint before you soda blast. Black paint is softer than chrome. Caustic soda and muriatic acid have the same effect to chrome on cams, it will soften, remove, but not all.. Chrome cams would have a nickel plate layer and a copper layer. If ever it is to work, it's dramatic effect could be seen in 10-20 minutes. This are nasty stuff so protect yourself, with gloves, goggles, use outdoors, avoid touching, inhaling and use plastic container.</p>

<p><br /> Reverse electroplating is the easiest way to go as it does not damage the brass from what I have read but I have not tried it, maybe visit an electroplating shop. I saw a webpage on how it was done on a Zorki, with the correct tools, it looks so very easy?</p>

<p><br /> still a long way to go...............gudluck on yours<br /> <img src="http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a574/king3sparrow/Picture-238_zps4aca01cb.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>It seems to capture the image sharply natural with very little soft light . Pic no.3 and 8, the reflection on the water is simply amazing for a camera at that age. Thanks, again for sharing, Rick.................</p>