feodordefemina
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Posts posted by feodordefemina
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<p>The last one I sold went for about $1000 on Ebay, without a lens. It was from the 1920s. A more recent 5x7 would be worth more. There is no new one. They sold out and closed in 1986. Jack Deardorff tried to revive the brand but never really got it going.</p>
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<p>+1 for the clothespins. Just dip them in a weak solution of photoflo & hang them. If you use the film hangers they eventually retain a lot of photoflo which will creep back onto the negatives and make the pictures lighter at the edges. Actually a nice effect for 8x10 portraits.</p>
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<p>John: i had a 250 Ducati roadracer, for street driving, in 1964. Very fast, handled great. Just 2 problems: no starter or kickstart--you had to run and jump it. And no horn--you had to scream at the traffic. Damn good motorcycle though. I am sure they are easier to use now.</p>
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<p>I wanted a 4x10. But concerned about the availability of film, I realized that I could save a whole lot of money by shooting 8x10 and cutting the neg down, unless a vast quantity of film was to be used. Of course if you have to carry it, 4x10 is a lot lighter.</p>
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<p>Hi Frankie: I have gone through a period when I had only Commercial Ektars, and another period with mostly Goerz Dagors. Both of those lenses are good, especially for high contrast outdoor work. I tried the G Clarons and found them inferior. The best lenses I have used are the current Rodenstocks.</p>
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<p>One way is to draw on tracing paper.</p>
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<p>I would substitute the Rodenstock 300mm apo sironar s. I agree with your choices for a 210 & 480.</p>
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<p>Good answer from Mr Lewis above. I prefer a handheld meter to get readings of different points on the subject. Then I make an informed decision about exposure.</p>
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<p>"The goal is the work itself." All artists should remember this.</p>
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<p>Pick up an old Deardorff. Just do not get a refinished one because the placement of the glass might be off.</p>
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<p>Berlebach tripods may be used for 8x10 cameras, but really are not steady enough. They also collapse easily and unexpectedly. I dumped an 8x10 Dorff that way, luckily it was not damaged, but easily could have been. I would suggest Gitzo or Linhof. Email me if you want more information on models.</p>
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detail of a marble torso, from the rear, made by Feodor Defemina<div>
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<p>To make it simple, a field camera is a more portable view camera.</p>
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body drawing<div></div>
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no message<div></div>
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<p>I have had two of them. Certainly a delightful camera, but the focusing on the distance scale is a nuisance. Otherwise, a real treat. No problem with the shutter stiffness. The big advantage of this camera is that it has no mirror, so it may be handheld at very low shutter speeds.</p>
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<p>A wooden field camera, 90mm lens, 4-6 filmholders, lensboard, tripod & a shirt or jacket as a darkcloth. Also a meter, or you can use use another camera as a meter.</p>
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<p>A wooden field camera, chosen based on budget. A 90mm lens, 6 filmholders and a tripod. Thats all you really need. Handheld meter or one of your other metered cameras as a meter. Use a dark shirt for a darkcloth.</p>
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<p>What makes you think it's useless. It is a good as it was last year.</p>
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no message<div></div>
Best Way to Learn Large Format (ie 4x5)
in Large Format
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