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joseph_krause

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Everything posted by joseph_krause

  1. I recently purchased a black Nikon FM3A with a 293580 serial number. I noticed at the back of the film load cavity a five-digit code, 11030. Having owned several Nikon F3 cameras where similar codes appear, I believe that the five digits indicate the specific production date and camera options or variants. I assume that my code means that the camera was made in November 2003 with 0 variants. Can anyone confirm this reading of the code?
  2. Yes, I have lifted and rotated the dial. Over the years, I have used probably 5-6 F3 cameras but this is the first time I have encountered this sticking problem.
  3. I have recently acquired two Nikon F3 cameras (one F3 with standard DE2 prism and one F3P). In both cases the ISO dial is very difficult to rotate. Any recommendations? Thanks.
  4. joseph_krause

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    Hasselblad SWC/M, Ilford FP4
  5. joseph_krause

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    Hasselblad SWC/M, Ilford FP4, Orange Filter
  6. joseph_krause

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    Nikon D3, Nikkor 28-80mm

    © AWL

  7. joseph_krause

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    Nikon D3, Nikon 35mm f/2.0 AIS

    © AWL

  8. As already suggested above, the Hasselblad SWC is the way to go. I far prefer the newer SWC/M with a 38mm Biogon CF T* lens. However, it might break the bank because the newer versions are in the $2,000+ range used. But you will have one of the finest lenses ever made.
  9. <p>Many thanks to all for the thoughtful responses and, especially to Edward Ingold for his guidance. Yes, a CFV16 back may be a good first, step as I certainly don't have the means to invest in a CFV50C at this time. Because I am using my SWC/M body progressively more, Edward's precautions about using a digital back with the 38mm Biogon leads me to think that I should stick to BW film until some new digital back technology appears on the horizon.<br> My best, Joseph</p>
  10. <p>Many thanks to all for the thoughtful responses and, especially to Edward Ingold for his guidance. Yes, a CFV16 back may be a good first, step as I certainly don't have the means to invest in a CFV50C at this time. Because I am using my SWC/M body progressively more, Edward's precautions about using a digital back with the 38mm Biogon leads me to think that I should stick to BW film until some new digital back technology appears on the horizon.<br> My best, Joseph</p>
  11. <p>As a dedicated amateur, over the last two decades I have principally used film for my landscape photography, usually shooting with my Hasselblad 503 CX and 50mm CF f/4 and, more recently with an SWC/M 38mm Biogon, which I saved a long time to purchase. Like most Hasselblad nostalgics, I am very attached to the 6X6 format which film affords. However, I am also discovering the art and benefits of digital and am seeing that there are more and more digital backs available, if using a 645 format, on the market. Most still seem in the high price professional range. However there do seem to be some backs that are more approachable price-wise. Is there a best option entry level back for an amateur looking to explore the digital turf? </p>
  12. <p>Avi,<br> If you are an experienced photographer, which I sense you are, I would recommend traveling with the compact and lightweight Hasselblad SWC/M (or more recent 903 or 905 versions) along with two A12 backs. The 38mm f/4.5 Biogon lens has a stellar reputation, is versatile and produces fabulous landscapes. Joseph</p>
  13. <p>Thank you Russ and Evan for the Hasselblad contact information that you sent. I will e-mail Hasselblad requesting information about replacing the cord. Since posting this message Paramount Cords, fully to its credit, did inform me that it was also attempting to obtain information from Hasselblad about this cord. Hopefully a solution will emerge early in the New Year.<br> My best, Joseph</p>
  14. <p>I have been searching for some time on the internet for a replacement Y cord for my Hasselblad ProFlash 4504. This is the original TTL cord that came with the flash with a 6 pin female plug at the long end and a 6 pin female + standard pc on the Y end.<br> On suggestions from this site I have contacted Paramount cords but that company does not seem able to rebuild this cord. No luck on ebay or at KEH after many searches.<br> I have the original Y cord that no longer works on my Hasselblad flash, having tried it out with several Hasselblad lenses on my 503CX. <br> Can anyone recommend someone who might be able to rebuild the Hasselblad cord from the original?<br> Any help would be appreciated. Joseph</p>
  15. <p>Hi Joana,<br> To follow-up on what Shun Cheung recently posted about staying on topic, let me just summarize some of the points made above which I can confirm from personal experience. 1) Good lenses are more important than camera bodies and today there are many older Nikon prime lenses available at bargain prices; 2) the F100 has many of the useful features of the later film autofocus Nikon cameras but its outer rubberized cover is prone to stickiness over time and, 3) there are some great deals to be had with a bit of searching for some classic Nikon film camera: the Nikon F3 is a reliable camera that I still use today. Good luck with film! </p>
  16. <p>Kadir,<br> Some fifteen years ago I sold my Nikon FE2 and several lenses to purchase from KEH a Hasselblad 500CM, A12 back and 80mm CF T* lens. The gear was ranked at the bargain level. It was a considerable investment for me. Even though I later traded the 500CM for a 503CX (which made the use of flash much easier), both the 80mm and A12 have endured the test of time and I still use them regularly today. Over the years I have purchased other Hasselblad lenses, but the 80mm CF can do most jobs with impeccable results. You will not regret the investment.</p> <p>Joseph</p>
  17. <p>Stephen,<br> If you just need a flash for family gatherings that is hassle-free for your Nikon D7100, the obvious solution is the Nikon SB 400. There is only one button on it: ON and OFF. It will swivel and give the correct lighting commanded by the camera. I use one on my pro Nikons and it does the job admirably there too.</p> <p> </p>
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