johncox

<p>I just want to play devils advocate here and point out that while 36MP may not be necessary it is cheaper than what canon is charging for the 5d3. That money can go to upgrade your computer or software or buy a sharp lens. </p>

<p>I'm looking for a cheap printer and want to know about the Epson Artisan 1430. Locally it's listed as a special order item which means it's either not out, sold out, or discontinued. I'd like to know which of these scenarios is most likely. <br>

If it's current I'd love to know how it compares to the 1400 and R2000.<br>

Thanks,<br>

John</p>

<p>I'm in the process of upgrading my kit and I'm looking at either a Voigtlander 25 f4 or Voigtlander 35 f1.7 for a standard lens. I currently have a Pentax screw 35 2.8 and sometimes wish for something wider. I've used a 40 in past on film the 25mm seems like a good fit, what I want to know most about now is depth of field and image quality. I know I'll be able to play with it a bit on the 35 and from what I can tell it's a great lens.</p>

<p>What I'm unsure is the 25 and whether I will be able to do much blurring out of backgrounds on the at f4 and how it will perform optically. I would prefer to shoot with the 25 but only if I can make a decent enlargement and retain some creative control.</p>

 

<p>I'll probably end up with a voigtlander 40 1.4 then. I thought I might have a shot when I saw this <a href="http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EX-Zeiss-Sonnar-T-50mm-f-1-5-Leica-L-M-M9-M8-50-F1-5-/280727085155?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item415ca36063#ht_5797wt_911">http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EX-Zeiss-Sonnar-T-50mm-f-1-5-Leica-L-M-M9-M8-50-F1-5-/280727085155?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item415ca36063#ht_5797wt_911</a>. There are a few other Contax mount Sonnars out there, some for less (one for 450), -are they worthwhile? I'm not hoping for something made last week, just something that will take smoother more contrasty pictures than a voigtlander.</p>

<p>I just bought a voigtlander used R2 (not R2A or R2M) body to replace my much loved but much broken R3A, I have two questions.<br>

First, I'm wondering if there is any way of using a 40mm on this without an external viewfinder. I've been told that the 50mm and 35mm framelines show about 13% less than 50mm and 35mm at 3 meters. I'm wondering whether the 35mm frame lines on this camera would actually show a 40mm view at all distances.<br>

Second,<br>

I'm currently looking at several 50's, but mainly the 50mm 1.5 voigtlander nokton. I would ideally like a t* sonnar (I've seen a lot of nice images from them) however I only have a budget of about 500 dollars and I'm a bit worried about problems with older generations. Is it possible to get a good sonnar for 500ish, or should I pull the trigger on a nokton? Any other suggestions for a great newer 50mm for around $500 would be great too.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance,<br>

John</p>

I purchased a new 5d mkII a few months ago and went with a used 28-135 IS for a lens. I'm using the camera a lot and loving the

results. However I would really like sharper images and think it's time I invest in some good glass. The majority of good images I have

with this camera were taken at or around 50mm. I have a 0.7x adapter with a 52mm screw mount that would let me use a 50mm

lens as a 35mm when I wanted to, and a lot of my work is stiched panoramas that are done at 50mm to deal with distortion too, so this all argues in favor of a 50mm.

 

That said, I do mainly street scenes and landscapes and the versatility of a zoom would be nice. I also wouldn't really be giving up

anything, where as with going to a 50mm from my current zoom there would be shortfalls since I like to keep my kit down to one lens

on me at a time and would either bring my current zoom or the good 50 1.4.

 

I've narrowed my options down to the 24-105 IS and a 50 1.4 and I have a few questions,

 

How sharp is the 24-105, IE how does it compare to the canon 50 1.4?

 

I can't find any mft charts for both lenses, is there a site that has mft charts available for canon lenses?

 

How does sigma's 50 1.4 compare.

 

Lastly how does the Bokeh stack up on these lenses?

 

Thanks in advance

<p>The last wedding I did I went with discs mainly because it saved me a lot of time and energy in packaging and printing, which translated into huge savings for the couple getting married. Over the course of the wedding I took about 500 shots, most were unusable, my clients ended up with about 120 images with duplicates in both black and what and colour.<br /> What made it work was that I was hired because I am a photographer and can make good images, a large part of that is editing and photoshop. I like to think that the images I produce have something to do with why people want me to take pictures for them. If they just needed a guy with a camera to push the shutter, then maybe the whole wedding industry has it wrong and we shouldn't be bringing portfolios when we go to talk to prospective customers.<br /> I don't think thats the case, neither do the customers.</p>

<p>Thanks a lot, I was looking at the 60d as an alternative and as I rarely shoot passed 1600 ISO, this makes things easier. I've looked at the 5d2 but for the price I can get a 5d and most of the lenses I will use regularly. That and the likelihood of a 5d3 coming out soon makes me unable to bring myself to buy one. </p>

<p>I'm interested in the 5D Classic for architectural photography, I like to hand hold as much as possible and find noise to be a big issue, especially in low light. my main interest is how the camera compares to modern crop models for noise. I've recently been using a D700 so if anyone knows how the 5D Classic compares to that camera as a benchmark that would be great too. <br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

John</p>

 

<p>I'm trying to figure out what caused my 645 pro to run out of juice. It just arrived a week ago and I put it through its paces the about 3 days ago (I put fresh rechargeable in the grip and a fresh px28 in the body). When I got home put it in the corner and forgot about it. Today I went to use it and noticed the battery was dead. I may have left the grip in the "on" position, but is that even enough to kill the $9 battery?<br>

I've charged and tested the batteries in the grip so it's not that. I'm wondering if this goes through them quickly or if it was just it was just a bad battery.<br>

In any case, if you can help, that would be great,<br>

Thanks,<br>

John.</p>

 

<p>I may be missing the point, but if there was background radiation high enough to be a threat, wouldn't it expose film / sensors? I think a radioactive camera is about as useless as an inflatable dartboard.</p>

<p>To echo donald, I'm looking at getting panopro giga also. Does anyone have any insight into how it stacks up?</p>

 

<p>Thanks very much, it looks like this adventure won't be happening any time soon. I will play with stand developing, although probably with Rodinal.</p>

<p>I chose delta mainly because it seemed like a safe choice with pmk pyro. TMAX is very prone to changes in temperature which I assume would make it a bad choice for standing development. The 6 hour developing time is an exaggeration, I'm happy with less, but would prefer the longest time possible. </p>

<p>This is a bit of an experiment to see what kind of results I can get with standing development, I've been told that the longer standing time the better result usually, I also have a hunch that I might get more pyro staining this way.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The initial agitation is what I'm referring to. I would prefer to agitate for 15 seconds and stand for 6 hours if that would work.</p>

<p>Can anyone recommend a good pyro developer and (non alkali) fixer to try this with? I plan on using ilford delta 100 (ei 80) 120 roll film and scanning the negatives to start. I would prefer to have a longer standing time and short agitation, however my biggest concern is achieving stability and a consistent quality result.<br>

Any idea on starting times for agitation and standing times would be great too. </p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

John</p>

<p>I'll just chime in that in photo shop sharpening is one of the few things you can't do as a layer so barring the undo button you can't go back if you change your mind. I would second what was said above but also mention that the unsharp mask and smart sharpen are going to be more useful than your other options as you can vary the amount, threshold, radius and get a preview.</p>

<p>I ended up getting a pro body with 120 back, grip, ae prism and 80 and 150 lenses. It was the light meter that really sold me on it. </p>

<p>Thanks every one ended up getting a mamiya pro tl kit, waiting on it now.</p>

<p>An extreme enlargement is 30"/40"- 40"/60" with intentional blurring (Its more the bokeh I want to look right).<br>

Thanks for the feedback so far. Out of curiosity what the viewpoint on a pentax 645n and mamiya 645 af ? In particular the metering, also whats the meter prism for pro tl like. I want something small and as I look into bronica I'm finding the AEIII prism isn't quite what I thought it was.</p>

 

<p>I'm looking at getting a medium format system and I'm trying to decided between a rollei 6006 and bronica etrsi. The camera will be used for a series of street photography images I'm doing this summer that require extreme enlargements. <br /> What I like about the bronica is that it's fairly quiet and I can use it in low light with less vibration from the shutter. I also like the price, the $500 difference means I can grab a lens or two.<br /> My worries with the etrsi are that lens shutters won't be reliable and that I may have problems finding things like bright screens and backs in good condition.<br /> My worries for the Rollei are similar, spare parts and possible electronic problems have me a bit nervous.<br /> What I like about the Rollei is what the electronics bring to the camera and the lens quality.<br /> I've shot mostly on mamiya before going digital and not on medium format at all in the past five years so I would like some opinions on what system is more stable. My main concern is that the Bronica will be a money pit, and that lenses and peripherals will be hard to find. I would be happy shoot on a Rollei if that would be a better camera, but don't want the same problems.<br>

Any advice would be great<br>

Thanks,<br /> John</p>

<p>Does anyone have suggestions to make this feel more organic?<br /> My software right now is MS Office (for text editing), photoshop (for images) and Apple IWeb 09.<br /><a href="http://www.theworldexposed.com"> www.theworldexposed.com</a><br /> Also, does anyone have a good idea what the optimum file size for the images sizes I have in the gallery and on the main page would be?</p>

<p>Any feedback is great,<br /> thanks<br /> John.</p>