moosekaka_lim
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Posts posted by moosekaka_lim
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<p>the crop from a microscope at 40x on the signboard (circled in red)</p><div>
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<p>to all those thinking a flatbed will get you almost as good as a coolscan, here is my experience:<br>
i started with an epson v500 to scan my 35mm shot from an f100 using prime lenses (50 1.8 and 24 2.8 D nikon D lenses). here is a pic and crops to compare.<br>
I also took a microscope photograph at 40x mag on a nikon microscope (i work in a bio lab :). so i will take that image as the max resolution possible. below is the complete image scanned on a nikon coolscan iv at 2900 dpi:</p>
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<p>so,does that mean i should NOT buy an RZ (as that has an electronic shutter?)<br>
honestly i'm confused and torn between all the MF formats, i'm real tempted by the prices of RB/RZ but not the tank like dimensions (i shoot tripod, but go for long nature hikes). I also like the Fuji GA645 pro, it seems just like a modern SLR but in a MF rangefinder! then there is the GW690. so many choices.....confused.</p>
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<p>alright, i know there are other threads about whether its time to jump into MF, i just like to know, looking at the used prices on KEH, the RB,RZ systems are really cheap (<500 for camera and lens in BGN). But they are really heavy to use outdoors. Hasselblads are lighter but still in the $1000+ range.<br>
My question is, are the prices likely going to get any cheaper or will it actually increase as supply declines ? will hasselblads get any cheaper or are they like leica's? i'm talking about within the next one to two years as that is my timeframe for getting one. should i be concerned that the drop in price is temporary as the market is glutted?<br>
i just purchased quite a bit of 35mm topline (nikon f100 etc) equipment used and am enjoying them, though not so much the scanning. but i i would like to see slides in 6x7 size someday and would move to purchase an RZ system quickly if the current prices are once in a lifetime?</p>
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<p>what resolution is that? i'm guessing its not 4000 dpi scan or even 2000 dpi?</p>
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<p>whoa, that is pretty good...is the nikonscan the 'correct' color? vuescan color looks terrible but can that be corrected in photoshop and a reference card?<br>
for nikonscan neutral, can it automatically detect and correct the film mask of different films? thanks again!</p>
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<p>no i have not, what i am concerned about is whether the coolscan+nikonscan will preserve the natural 'look' or colorcast of the film? for instance will reala and ektar look different using the same neutral scan settings?<br>
just to clarify, i am using negafix (silverfast) on epson v500 currently, and am quite happy that i can see that different film can be corrected to remove the colorcast using negafix.</p>
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<p>zach, anil sorry to harp on the lens issue, but if thats your thinking about the digital bodies, than i think the OP should get the 18-55 DX, its the same price as the 50 1.8 and you wont notice the difference in image quality since you are aren't fussy about lens quality in the first place.<br>
i seriously doubt the dealer will take back the lens for the same price you paid without charging you for it somewhere else....that said i paid for my like new 10-months old 50 1.8 of the auction site for about 80% of the brand new price.</p>
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<p>hi, can anybody point me to a previous thread or some link that shows how to do color balancing/correction with C41 using a gray card and the Nikonscan software?<br>
the closest i found was one using vuescan, but i like to try it with nikon scan first.<br>
vuescan method:<br>
i just bought a coolscan iv and would like to scan 10 rolls of superia 200, 400 and reala. <br>
another thing about color balancing with a gray card, do i need a white card as well to set the white point or will a sheet of paper do fine?</p>
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<p>thanks once again andrew, i have a xp laptop and win 7 64 desktop, but i have read from the forums here its possible to run nikon scan 4.0.3 on the 64 by installing vuescan driver. will give both software a go.<br>
incidentally, my main concern is achieving the right color balance with color negs, and this link here shows how to do it:<br>
does anyone know if its possible to 'lock' exposure in nikonscan? maybe i should post this question in the scanner forum.,...</p>
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<p>update 2: seems like a good deal, guy told me he had 10 rolls of film done on this scanner.<br>
now the issue is: should i keep my v500 flatbed? i bought it new from B&H in december 2010, so it has 11 months of warranty on it and i only paid $125, i dont shoot MF but might someday....does the coolscan IV scan 120 film?</p>
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<p>UPDATE: i just bought a nikon coolscan iv (2900dpi) for $375 of the auction site, comes with everything including the SA21...did i overpay?</p>
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<p>" In the last year or so, I've added 8 used manual focus lenses to my collection that altogether add up to less money than one 70-300 AF-S VR lens."<br>
cory, which 8 lenses are those? i got a refurbished 70-300 afd vr with nikon 90 day warranty from adorama for $350....are you saying those MF lenses cost less than $50 each on average??<br>
to OP: get better glass...they hold their value better and you can always sell them on if your needs change...now try selling your d7000 in 5-10 years and see what you get :)</p>
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<p>no, i do not mean to say that the 50 1.8D is a bad lens, on the contrary! it is a FANTASTIC lens, as you will note i have one myself and shoot from it still on my backup N70.<br>
what i meant was that rather then spend $1200 (minimum) on the body and $120 on the lens. why not get a better lens (or TWO) and a cheaper body?<br>
depreciation will make your body almost worthless in 10 years time, yet good lenses hold their value (i wouldn't be so quick to say "not thinking of upgrading it at all", these things have a funny way to get you in the upgrading bug!). </p>
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<p>no offense, but spending 10:1 ratio on a digital body:lens, to me makes no sense. your pic is only as good as your lens. i do have a 50 1.8d though, but i got that as a first lens to a free film body (N70) !<br>
as a side note, today my colleague came in toting a D300s and a tamron 28-70 attached to it, when asked, he only knew the price of the body and couldn't care less about the lens.</p>
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<p>"you can also use your N70 to take meter readings".<br>
exactly! now if only nikon SLR's can take a polaroid back :)</p>
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<p>you know what, for MF, what about the FUJI GA645pro with fixed 60 f/4?<br>
less than $500 for and ex or < $400 for a bgn at KEH. tempting...do really need teh extra size of 6x7? is 6x7 really that much nicer than a 645 negative?<br>
its so much lighter (actually the same as an f100 with prime 50 lens!) than a rb67!</p>
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<p>"If you plan to use a tripod and want to shoot film, it's 4x5's game."<br /> "View cameras are cheap. "<br /> i can think of two good reasons for MF for landscapes:<br /> <br /> cost: you pointed this out earlier, but just to be clear, i can process a roll of color 120 for $5 (and a roll of reala 120 is like $3.5), so about $0.50 a shot. Its $2 gets to develop ONE 4x5 , and 20 sheet box of velvia 50 is $55 at freestyle, which means $5+ a shot!.....ouch...i'm not sure i can find a scene thats will be 10x better though...<br /> <br /> setup time and learning curve: as you yourself said its really slow to setup and there is a steep learning curve for view cameras?<br /> I do agree the RB 67 is the way to go for better quality, maybe in 6 months time i will get a cheap one to play with, or a RZ67 so i can have a TTL meter.<br /> in the meantime, i have three lenses to play with, two of which i ve no experience with in terms of FOV (the 24mm and 70-300 zoom). <br /> and regarding lab doing the work, i scan all my film ( i do need a better film scanner though)</p>
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<p>here is a cliche sunset shot with the f100, fuji 200.<br>
note to self: take off cheap uncoated UV filter next time!</p><div>
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<p>thanks all for the responses.<br>
I have no interest in going down the digital vs film debate. I am looking to get an RB67 to play with at some point though (hopefully i can borrow it from my school's photo lab, if not KEH has them with a 90mm for less than $300). <br>
SB800 flash....now many people recommend that as digital compatible, but its at least $300....i could use that money for said RB67, or a manual lens or two, or another f100 (and a f80 to spare)! <br>
when it comes to flash, i got a cheap light SB30 for $35 and a SB24 with sc17 cord for $75. i think strobist was the one responsible for driving up the prices of old speedlites!<br>
now if i can just find someone with a minolta scan dual who will sell it for a $100....</p>
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<p>thanks for that tip on RSS feeds andrew, and here's a tip:<br>
<p>discounts on 400H!</p>
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<p>also its interesting that i had a digital point and shoot for 8 years, and i reviewed my shots, most were rubbish because i just never took the time to think about my shots. over a period of two years i took less than 700 shots with it. less than 10 keepers.<br>
sure a low cost dslr would be faster, but i like the big full frame viewfinders. and D type lenses wont work with entry level DSLR's (and i love my 24mm and 50mm D primes). </p>
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<p>thanks all for the responses. couple of points:<br>
1) yes i know the scanner is the weak link, but i dont print larger than 8x10 and if i really like a shot, i could sneak in a scan in my school's photo studio which has a nikon coolscan v. also i use silverfast (an "unofficial" version, *if you catch my drift *). <br>
2)trolling xraigslxst for a used film scanner....andrew how much did you pay for it and how long did you troll for?<br>
3) i have about 50 rolls of film which i store in my lab'c 4C fridge, some fuji 100's, 200',800's , a few reala, ektar, sensia and a dozen fuji 400H. total film cost was about $150, and i process develop only at costco for $1.59 a roll. I dont think i can finish 50 rolls in one year. a used d700...thats about $2000...a used d300, at least a $1000 (KEH prices). maybe someday i would go for d700 as i want to keep my full frame lenses.<br>
when you factor in depreciation cost of digital bodies i think $200 for film with its dynamic range, negative backups and film look...doesnt seem too bad.<br>
4) flash is my priority, im thinking an SB-30 for light fill flash on the go, and an SB24 or sb26.<br>
5)ND grad would be my next purchase though, since i find the blown out sky at sunset/sunrise most annoying.<br>
6) N70 as paperweight...hmmm i walk around with two bodies on landscape trip with the wide angle on it and the VR zoom on the f100. saves time. and i can load different film on two different bodies. </p>
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<p>B&H seems to be having a sale on fuji 400H :<br>
and<br>
<p>got myself 11 rolls for those indoor night shootings.</p>
Nikon Coolscan IV still worthy?
in Black & White Practice
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