Jump to content

moosekaka_lim

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    78

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by moosekaka_lim

    tamrac SAS and cokin p filters

    in Accessories

    critique my setup

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>UPDATE:<br>

    after a couple months and 20 rolls later, here is an update:<br>

    much happier with my scans now i have a coolscan iv.<br>

    sold my N70 and bought a N80 from KEH, should work much faster than the N70's dumb controls.<br>

    LOVE the F100.<br>

    real shooting situations, i carry my F100 with the 70-300 and the N70/80 with the 24mm f2.8. This setup is fast and flexible, out in the field i find i need a setup that lets me take pictures quickly and easily without too much fussing around. <br>

    only thing i dont like: whenever people see me with the rather bulky 70-300 and f100 combo, they always say nice camera bla bla bla.....its hard to be inconspicous. i dont know how people do it with D3's and 70-200 f2.8....</p>

     

    f100 spot metering problem

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>hi, i am trying to use the spot metering on the f100 on a grey card, or black chair it almost always reads LO (indoors), but it works fine if i switch to CW. can someone explain why this is so or is this a fault?<br /> thanks</p>

    rechargeable cr123 tenergy for sb30 and N70

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>hello, does anyone have experience using the tenergy LiFePO4 or 900mah rechargeable cr123 for use in a SB30 flash and a film N70/N80 SLR? if you do, how does it compare to normal CR123?<br /> i 've read a few old posts from years past on unreliability of RCR123 when used to replace CR123, just wondering if they've improved since then.</p>

    <p>these are the batteries i'm refering to:<br>

    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Kits-RCR123A-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B001EYHO9G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1296525164&sr=8-4#productPromotions">http://www.amazon.com/Kits-RCR123A-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B001EYHO9G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1296525164&sr=8-4#productPromotions</a><br>

    and <br>

    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/RCR123A-Rechargeable-Protected-Batteries-Charger/dp/9575871979/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1296525164&sr=8-2">http://www.amazon.com/RCR123A-Rechargeable-Protected-Batteries-Charger/dp/9575871979/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1296525164&sr=8-2</a><br>

    I know i can get regular CR123 at $1 for a 40px box, but i just dont like the idea of disposing away so many battery cases.</p>

     

    are MF cameras going to be any cheaper?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>alright, so bronica gs-1 seems to be very tempting, however i see on KEH they sell bodies without waistlevel or prisms....not having MF experience before....how useful are they without a waistlevel finder? would a waistlevel finder be useful on a tripod with landscapes? i dont have a light meter, however i plan to initially meter with my trusty nikon N70 film slr and a 50mm 1.8D.<br>

    <br /> also, if i were to just buy ONE lens (as my starter of course :) ), would the 100mm f3.5 be a good choice? of course that is the cheapest so that pretty much decides it for me, but i also notice there is a 110 macro and not sure if 65mm would be too wide. i would like the lens to be 'all purpose', good enough before getting more lenses!</p>

    are MF cameras going to be any cheaper?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>well, my concern about RZ is the reliability of electronic shutters,seeing how these camera tend to be heavily used, and it IS a bigger shutter than a 35mm!<br>

    actually having surveyed the MF field i'm now confused as there are so many choices, and i'm restricting myself to 6x7! (only 645 i have an eye for is the GA645 pro in 60mm, that looks like a poor man's mamiya 7 to me).<br>

    i would like to go large neg in MF, seeing how i'm scanning my 35mm @2900 dpi on a coolscan iv, and plan to scan my 120 film someday with an epson v500 at 2400 dpi (which really is just 1600 dpi optically). at 1600 dpi, a 645 neg scan is 'only' 9.2 megapixel, albeit at a narrower crop compared to 35mm. I'm getting 11 megapixels scans from my 35mm @2900 dpi, so i think i would need at least a 6x7 to really see the difference with 120 film (i shoot only color).</p>

    how to do color balancing with gray card on nikon scan

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>les, i just tried out both nikonscan and vuescan. In theory, using vuescan's lock exposure and lock film base color SHOULD produce a more accurate scan...in PRACTICE....nikonscan was faster and produced a nicer image.<br>

    In order to remove the colorcast completely for negatives though, i still shoot a greycard, and then set a curves preset to get an R=G=B on the grey card (the so called color balancing with numbers). <br>

    doing this method i am getting very nice, accurate colors for the same type of negative films (and this was a PAIN for me before the greycard). now all i need to do is remember to shoot a grey card for my first exposure !<br>

    50secs with ICE and auto everything! my iv takes 2 mins min, without auto exposure but with ICE. oh how i wish i could afford the 5000.....i suspect the 4000 would be faster too as that has a firewire connection vs the measly USB 1.1 in the IV.</p>

    Which scanner is better; V500 or 8800F?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>just another post to those who like to compare: i have both a v500 and a coolscan iv which is 'only' 2900 dpi, but you should see the difference:<br>

    <a href="../black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00VxWP?start=30">http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00VxWP?start=30</a><br>

    i posted a comparison between a negative scanned with v500, coolscan iv and a microscope pic taken with a digital CCD microscope camera.</p>

    Primes or medium zoom ?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>is the setup DX or FX?<br>

    FWIW, i use two bodies (both film) and i have a 24mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.8, and a 70-300 VR zoom. normally the 24mm goes on one body and the zoom goes on the other. if i want a light walkabout i use the 50mm.</p>

    Epson or CanoScan 9000F

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>the problem with the plustek is the <strong>extremely stupid filmstrip holder</strong>, it is completely MANUAL in that you have to push the holder to scan individual frame by frame!! I'm surprised this issue isn't pointed out often enough, as i'm sure the OP would like to batch scan a roll.<br /> also, for the link to the plustek by charles monday, notice that THEY themselves never provide an example for their scanner above 3200 dpi? thats because the REAL optical resolution for plustek's are only 3200 dpi! still better than flatbeds but far far below 7200 dpi! this was tested on USAF charts showing real optical resolution:<br /> <a href="http://www.filmscanner.info/en/PlustekOpticFilm7600i.html">http://www.filmscanner.info/en/PlustekOpticFilm7600i.html</a><br /> I'm not convinced that the plusteks are better than the nikon coolscans image wise, but i could be wrong but judging by the pricetag probably not, dont forget the coolscans had very quiet electronics and ED glass.</p>

    <p> </p>

    how to do color balancing with gray card on nikon scan

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>ok, just did my first scan with the coolscan using nikonscan and a quadcore win 7 64 setup....very nice colors! one question, when i'm doing batch scans, should i enable autofocus and autoexpsosure on EVERY frame? will that make a diff? i'm aiming for speed but acceptable quality.<br>

    also, i'm holding off doing my 14 rolls of batch scanning till i try the "shoot a ref card and scan flat in nikon, correct in PS" to see if i can get a better color balance than the nikon scan settings!</p>

     

    Nikon Coolscan IV still worthy?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>conclusion: i was stunned, i thought that at 2900 dpi the coolscan would be better than the v500, but its almost as good as the microscope! no doubt at 4000dpi it would be equal to the microscope... sorry i know this is not black and white, but i think its still instructive in showing the difference between a real film scanner and a flatbed!<br>

    i guess i'm just real pleased to have gotten an excellent condition coolscan from the auction site for $375, yes thats how crazy in demand these things are nowadays...oh nikon WHY did you stop making these?<br>

    note: today i was at freestyle, and the sales guy was trying to convince some new dude how flatbeds (same model, v500) are <strong>ALMOST </strong>as good as filmscanners by quoting "<strong>It has 9600 dpi</strong> !"......i almost interjected "but is the optical resolution "?<br>

    I'm keeping the v500 though for the day i get my mamiya RZ or a fuji 6x9 :)</p>

×
×
  • Create New...