orourke

<p>Thanks Steve. I'm trying not to use a flash and there will be no "post". It'll simply be shot on print film so I was just trying to find out if I should filter the same way I normally would for standard flourescent tubes or if anyone has found a filter that seems to work better with the new CFLs.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses.<br>

So I guess I will be safe if I allow a day after the freezer to alleviate any moisture issue as a result of condensation, right?<br>

Also, Bob.....thanks for the link. I went there and it appears that what you are saying is that the new CFLs are no different than standard flourescent light bulbs? I'm aware of the color correction needed for those, I just wondered if the new curly CFLs require a different filter, they seem a bit warmer than traditional straight tube flourescents.</p>

<p>I have two questions. I gave a cursory search through past threads and although I came teasingly close I failed to find an answer to either.</p>

<p>My first question is................ What is the recommended filter for photography on film under CFL lighting? Should I approach it as a standard flourescent?</p>

<p>And Two.............. What is the recommended time one should allow to "thaw out" film that has been stored in a freezer?</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Protective filter?</p>

<p>NASA and spaceweather.com are sponsoring a photo contest with cash prizes of 100-500 dollars. For those of you who do astrophotography you may want to check it out.....<br>

<a href="http://nanosail.org/">http://nanosail.org/</a><br>

that is all.</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for your input. I feel better about my decision. I'm ordering the 700 now and will probably pick up the 400 next month, unless I see or hear of something else between now and then in that price range that offers better portability without sacrificing sturdiness.</p>

<p>Thank you both for the input, it is very much appreciated. I think I'll pick up the 700 and eventually get the 400 as a travel/back up tripod. They both sound like good buys and are different enough for specific applications to justify purchasing both. Thanks again!</p>

<p>How about this. While working in his basement darkroom, he notices a dark colored liquid dripping down the side of his Beseler 23CII and onto the 8x10 enlargement he is exposing. Following the path of intrusive liquid he discovers that it is coming from the floor of dining room directly above the darkroom. Flipping on the light he inspects the red liquid between his thumb and forefinger. Opening the door of the darkroom he calls for his wife who was unexpectedly home for the afternoon...."Maude,......Maude". Getting no response he dashes up the basement stairs. As he passes the mud room landing adjacent to the back door he notices that the back door is open to a torrential rain and the screen has been cut. Mud footprints lead into the kitchen to the stove where he sees a rabbit boiling in a pot and continue into the dining area. He pauses......calling once more for his wife as he cautiously peers through the doorway into the dining room....."Maude....Maude, where are you"... Then he sees him. A stranger lying on the floor in a pool of blood. He bends over the fellow, checking for pulse when suddenly his eyes bulge and he gasps as a butcher knife is plunged into his back. He turns to see his wife, Maude, and with his dying breath he asks.....why?......why Maude? Maude can only laugh. "Ha" she cackles. "So you thought you were going to sell my FM3a on Craigslist without me finding out about it did ya! Do you know how long I searched on ebay for one under 500 bucks?"</p>

<p>Thank you Harry. I am leaning toward the 700dx and possibly picking up a lighter (400dx) tripod down the road for quick road trips if the 700 proves too cumbersome. I have also heard good things about the Slik 340dx, especially it's portability. It would be so much easier to decide if I could actually hold one and examine it beyand a computer monitor screen. (no one in the area carries them) One other question I had, if I may, pertains to the quick release on the 700. I posted it in another thread but that thread seems to have disappeared. Have you, or anyone noticed any 'creep' shooting vertically with a round quick release configuration as opposed to square or rectangular. Specifically, is the quick release locking system on the 700dx secure?</p>

<p>I am about to purchase a tripod and I'm debating whether to go with a Slik 700 or 400. The price difference seems to be negligible (10 bucks @ B&H) and I wondered if anyone has any input on whether the 700 offers a better value given the added weight. I suppose weight really isn't a big concern for me but it seems to be the one drawback that everyone points to in forums/reviews. Any other pros/cons that I may want to consider? I'll be using Nikon 35mm bodies the largest of which at this point is an F4 with a 75-300 zoom.</p>

<p>I'm also considering a Slik 700dx. Not having seen one in real life I have a question regarding the round quick release plate. Clearly horizontal shooting shouldn't be an issue but does anyone know if there is any 'creep' with a round plate as opposed to a square or rectangular design for vertical shots?</p>

<p>When I brought up the 'Nikon Rumors' post it was clear to me that it was just that..... Nikon Rumors. In fact, they were, and are not claiming that they are privvy to anything other than a hypothetical assumption of future events based on chatter from seemingly independent sources. I've only been a reader of their (and this) site for a few months and take everything with a grain of salt, be it prefaced by rumor disclaimers or purported to be truth past down in stone tablets. It's fun to speculate though and listen to the opinions and predictions of others. If nothing else the speculation and opinions of us all will have an impact on the designs of future products if the powers that be are listening.<br>

D800 at 2k?........... Who do I make it out to?</p>

<p>'Nikon Rumors' is specualting March and April with a D800 for around 2k and a mirrorless 16-24 MP. </p>

<p>Have you tried shooting with a different lens? How does the shutter cycle without the lens attached? Just a wild guess but if the depth of field button is firing the shutter it would seem that the aperture blades are possibly getting hung up during (before) the exposure and are requiring a manual assist. The "out of focus" issue may also point to (one, or some of) the blades hanging up. Try firing it without the lens. If it works, try a different lens. You may also want to try shooting with the lens a full open aperture just to see if it still requires you to manually stop it down before exposure. As I said, just a guess... good luck.</p>

<p>Thank you Joe. Yes, there is something else going on here. I had no problem re-inserting the outer sleeve and screwing the rewind knob back on. In fact, I've tried pulling up on the rewind knob after rethreading it back on with, and without the sleeve, hoping that the extra angle and slop afforded without the sleeve may help to free the lower assembly from whatever it is balled up in. I've given my "crush the cartridge" approach some thought and have decided instead to send it in to the guys that get paid the big bucks since the camera, for the most part, is pristine and I'd like to see it stay that way. Although it has performed flawlessly up to this point it's probably a good time to have them go through it and replace the seals and bumper and give it a thourough once over anyway. Thanks again for the response though, I appreciate it.</p>

<p>Thank you Dave. I did browse the forums and googled some fixes before I posted here. My dilema is that the inside stem of the rewind crank is stuck up so there is little or no hole to speak of to try and fish a tool down in there (just the thickness of the outer sleeve) To complicate matters, it is up so high the fitting that engages the film cartridge seems to be topped out. I'm almost thinking about blocking the bottom of the camera and attaching a screw clamp to the top of the stem to crush the film cartridge down. Possibly I could get the stem to drop out of the way so I could then poke around for the latch. Or.........I could just send the thing into the shop. What could possibly go wrong?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Half way through a roll of color film I tried to rewind it back into the case to change to black and white. When the "pressure" released I pulled up on the crank and popped the back open only to find the film still wrapped around the take up spool. I closed the back and tried to continue to rewind when the rewind crank fell off along with the clip, a washer, and a spring. The sleeve with the indent that surrounds the stem also fell out and the stem that protrudes down into the film compartment is stuck in the up position. Trying to raise it to release the back door latch have been fruitless and it will not depress back into the body. It will only turn about 1/5 of a turn and will not engage the film cartridge to even rewind. I really don't care about the roll of film but I would like to be able to open the back without damage. Any ideas ? Thanks.......</p>

<p>Which will produce the best 'time exposure'?........ (sorry)</p>

<p>Joe, there's alot of dust. If I had paid more for it I would consider sending it in to the shop for a cleaning but if I do it myself and screw it up I'm only out forty bucks. I was just wondering if anyone had dug into one of these before and had any trip wires I should look out for.</p>

<p>It was too hard to pass up.......... "Like New"... "Near Mint"....."Cleanest Teleconverter I've ever seen". !!!!<br>

So I bid and bought it for 40 bucks. Which brings me to my question. Although there aren't any scratches, haze, fungus, dings, dents or ketchup stains, the converter seems to be filled with more dust than a Jack Benny checkbook. Can I open this thing up and clean all the elements without it turning into a science project? (My last attempt at cleaning binoculars didn't go well). It would seem that since the elements are fixed I shouldn't run into too much of an issue with alignment,...should I?<br>

If I'm dreaming and it is too much of a project, the first 50 bucks takes it. :) lol</p>

<p>I use protective filters all the time, with very few exceptions, wind blown sand or not. Imagine a world where you never had to clean your windows or car windshield. The fact is there is plenty of dirt suspended in the air and that dirt is abrasive. Clearly, windy days increase the amount of particulates in the air and high humidity levels increase that dirt's ability to adhere to the soft coated surface of your lens. Speaking of humidity, I can recall countless times walking from a cold to warm environment and having my glasses and the front filter on my camera fog up. With a filter on it's a quick wipe (often with my t shirt), something I wouldn't consider doing to the front element of a lens unless I was just about to miss the shot proving aliens had decended from the heavens and were mutilating cattle while meeting with heads of State.</p>

 

<p> stopped in Best Buy today and there on display for all to see was a brand new Nikon D7000. I picked it up and after 4 or 5 minutes a salesman came by and said "Do you have any questions?" I said yes, as a matter of fact I do..... I notice you don't have any power to the camera and I'd like to fumble through some of the operation of it (thinking to myself, maybe I can see what all this mushy shutter button talk was all about). I went on to say, is there any way we can turn this thing on?<br />Well that was a stumper. After a long pause he said, " I don't think so because we don't have any power to it yet". Trying to move the conversation along I asked,.... Do you know when you might have it hooked up? A few minutes?..an hour? later this afternoon? Again a long pause and the response........ "Probably by the end of the week". I said thanks...I won't be back, and he said.... "Thanks for stopping in, do you have any other questions?" I was about to ask the one about the fastest animal on earth but I'm sure it would've been a waste of time, just like my stop in Best Buy was today.<br />Still,.... they'll probably sell a million of them. Just think how many they'd sell if they cared and were informed.</p>

<p>Contacts are super clean and were cleaned after being cleaned. Brand new batteries (voltage tested at the store) won't work so the battery check light is not getting the juice at all. Seems odd that a shutter magnet AND battery check light would simultaneously fail in the course of two days hiding in a case.</p>

<p>John, I tried it without the batteries, with new batteries, with the battery from the FE2, without batterries again, with new batteries and with the battery from the FE2 again and finally, without the batteries. Batteries aren't the issue, something in the camera is. Therein lies the question.</p>

<p>Why no battery check light then and why did the batteries drain in two days? Also I just opened the back and looked at the shutter with a lens attached from a dark area out into the light. M90 is definetly slower than the rest. So it doesn't appear to be "stuck" at M90. I can see the open iris of the lens on that setting (M90), where as the others I can't. All other shutter speeds are very fast and appear to be the same.</p>