arthur_smith1

<p>There is a clear distinction, IMHO, between a cult lens and a classic one. I have the 105 f/2.5, and while I do think it qualifies a legendary, I would not put it into cult status. My son has the 50 E Series, and it truly is a sweet little lens. </p>

<p>Bruce- happens easily with new foam. it has a "memory", like Temperpedic mattresses.</p> <p>Enjoy your Canonet! </p>

<p>I tend to suffer from Kickstarter fatigue. I have heard several interviews with Dave, and while I commend the effort and commitment, Ferrania hardly instills that warm/fuzzy feeling as a legendary brand. Getting the machines back up and running is one thing, getting the chemistry and film quality right is totally another issue. Impossible has proven this, and if they do not improve their materials soon, are likely to go under. Marketing only goes so far. </p>

<p>Ask 100 Nikon photographers this question, and you may receive 100 different responses. I do not really characterize the 105 2.5 as qualifying as "cult" status. <br> My choices are-<br> 50mm Series E<br> 50-135 f/3.5 Macro<br> 28-50 f/3.5 Macro<br> None were runaway successes, but all three can yield spectacular results.</p> <p>A</p>

<p>PS- the seals are very easy to replace on the camera- I did it myself a couple of years back. Removal of the old gummy seals is the most challenging part. </p>

<p>I have written elsewhere, the QL17 GIII deserves better than to be classified as "the poor man's Leica". It is a better camera than that, especially if one accepts its limitations. I am not willing to put it into Leica class, but it might be one of the very best consumer rangefinders in what was a very crowded market at the time. </p>

<p>An FTN that I bought a couple of years ago from the dreaded auction site. According to testing I did with my Luna Pro F and D300, with zinc air cells and the CRIS adapters, it is accurate to within appx half a stop. <br> And, the needle action is smooth, not at all jumpy. They can be found. </p> <p>A</p>

<p>As my friend Mike Raso likes to say, there is not reason to get a case of "the battery sweats". Use what you think is the best solution, and have fun. I think that is the best battery advise I ever received. Accuracy is not what I expect from a 45 year old Photomic FTN light meter. Although, it is surprisingly accurate with zinc air cells. </p>

<p>No, it does indeed work with a Wein cell, but there is no need to use it. When the Canonet was popular, photographers had an unfounded terror of having batteries die while out in the field. Of course, the QL17GIII operates in manual, albeit without a meter, or shutter priority, which back then was classified as an "automatic" mode.</p> <p>The battery check function will drain the battery at a faster rate. <br> <br />A</p>

<p>Mine did not work for a bit, and then it did. and still does. It is hard to see in bright light. However, I would really warn you against using it often. it does cause battery drain. If the shutter and light meter work in "A" mode, just shoot. You will know if things are fine if you see light meter movements, and reaction to variation in light.<br> Enjoy!</p>

Just cleaned the optics, and loaded the battery- meter seems spot on.

I picked up 1.55 volt silver oxide batteries - are these the right ones for the FT3 meter?

<p>I have noticed that prices on classics have gone down by about 20-25%. I paid way less for the Nikkormat than I thought I would. These are fantastic times to be film shooters! </p>

<p>The truth is that prices have gone down on F's about 20-25%, even on black non-metered F's, and people online are trying to get a premium by claiming that their models are the later Apollo versions. <br> My guess is #1, "Tampering to increase sales". I have seen it quite a bit, even at recent shows such as Photographica. I had one guy tell me what he had was a black Apollo, even though there was no plastic tip on the winder.<br> "Not my 1st rodeo." </p> <p>A</p>

<p>I believe the recommendation for a battery is silver oxide, as opposed to alkaline. Silver oxide does seem harder to find at a CVS or Walgreens. </p>

<p>Apollo in the F's refers to the most updated F's, which included a plastic tipped winder knob, to "refresh' the F design to make it closer to the F2, so as to briefly keep it competitive during the transition. F prices have come down, but yes, there are indeed fake Apollos out there, and some see it as a way to fetch a premium over a more traditional F body.<br> To the respondents here, I do not believe the OP was insinuating that F's were used on Apollo space missions. He was simply referring to the following, as noted on the excellent CameraQuest site: </p> <p align="left"><strong> cosmetics changed late in production to match the then currently produced and just introduced F2. The F was updated with a plastic tipped F2 type advance lever and self timer, and stronger camera strap eyelets. The only Apollo variation that I know of is the PC connection. The earlier Apollos had the standard F flash connection. The later ones had the F2 type threaded PC connection. Shown is a black Apollo with the standard prism, F36 motor and cordless battery pack.</strong></p> <p align="left"><strong>Though popularly called the "Apollo" due to the USA Apollo space program of the early 1970's, I have never seen any evidence to link this variation with the space program.</strong></p> <p align="left"><strong>The earliest "Apollo" might be # 7256811 pictured in a Nikon instruction book. Nikon usually brought out a new instruction book with new changes. For some reason the change was actually made much later, probably about 7335000. That would make approximate "Apollo" production about 116,000 cameras--or at least that is my current best guess. </strong></p>

<p>Great insight- thanks you. I normally shoot with the F3 as it is my favorite Nikon, but also have an F Photomic FTN, F2S, and FE2. Guessing my 35 and 50's will see a lot of action on the Nikkormat. <br> The modern day battery usage is tremendously appealing. No adapters or workarounds needed! <br> A</p>

<p>Wasn't sure to post here, or in the Nikon forum. Anyways, has anyone shot with the Nikkormat FT3? Have been lusting for one for a while, and have one coming from KEH tomorrow. I have read that the metering is simple but amazingly accurate. Thoughts or experiences? Tips? </p>

<p>These look very similar to Newton Rings. Check how you have the film on the scanner bed. I use the Epson supplied carrier trays when I scan 35mm, and never have problems. </p>